Bought a spare sear assembly just in case things didn't go as planned. Basically I modified the sear for over travel (where it engages trigger bar) and cut back the rear hump of the sear for trigger pull. Polished everything nice with a red rouge and small cotton wheel. Didn't get to the FP plunger yet because I need to remove the rear sight. Anyways- DAMN is it unbelievable now. My first mods and I'm very excited! Can't wait to try it at the range.
-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
-
Be sure to enter the NES/MFS May Giveaway ***Canik METE SFX***
Just did trigger job on M&P
- Thread starter Lugnut
- Start date
Wow, so you did it yourself and it came out good.. that's great! That means
a bozo like myself can do it, too. How hard was the mag safety (uh er,
I mean disconnect) to remove?
-Mike
The mag disconnect is VERY easy to remove- you just need to take out the disconnect and replace a spring (old one won't work). To make it easier you could just get the sear housing from Brownells- just order it without the mag disconnect and lock. Oh and this assembly will eradicate the dreaded MA trigger pull from what I hear.
EDIT: Btw- does your comment above imply that I'm a bozo?? LOL
The mag disconnect is VERY easy to remove- you just need to take out the disconnect and replace a spring (old one won't work). To make it easier you could just get the sear housing from Brownells- just order it without the mag disconnect and lock. Oh and this assembly will eradicate the dreaded MA trigger pull from what I hear.
Hmm, sounds good.
No, not at all. I just made the wild assed guess that you're like me and
probably not a gunsmith, but are probably willing to make changes if you
can do them without getting into too much trouble.
![[smile]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/001.gif "Smile [smile]")
Nah, I say try it with a full high cap. Just be ready.![[rofl2]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/035.gif "ROFL2 [rofl2]")
Yes, and if you're at one of those fudd ranges be prepared to deal with
the old coot coming out of the clubhouse yellin "YEW BOY IS RAPID
FIRIN!"
![[laugh]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/012.gif "Laugh [laugh]")
-Mike
I'm in the market for an M&P (actually I'm waiting form the compact version due out soon) and will probably be doing some trigger work. If you could do a detailed post on these mods it would be a great help.
Everything I needed was from here:
http://www.burwellgunsmithing.com/M&Ptriggerjob1.htm
I did everything but not quite as extensive. I didn't want to alter part too much. Everything got a good polishing with red rouge. The hardest part was removing the rear site. But fortunately my Glock sight pusher was a perfect fit and it came off easy.
It's a world apart from the way it was stock. I'm guessing it's between 4 and 5 lbs with a shorter reset and overall smoother action.
Lugnut,
Stupid question.... If you heard that replacing the sear housing block will eradicate the MA trigger pull, what exactly is the difference that you had after you did your trigger job? Was it just instead of replacing housing?
Stupid question.... If you heard that replacing the sear housing block will eradicate the MA trigger pull, what exactly is the difference that you had after you did your trigger job? Was it just instead of replacing housing?
That is not a stupid question at all. BTW I started with the std sear assembly. The sear housing will get you to the 6.5lbs +/-. Polishing everything will get you a smoother pull for sure, maybe help the pull a bit. Removing the material on the sear where it engages the trigger bar will give you a shorter reset. Removing some of the material/hump (not all of the hump though!) at the back of the sear that engages with the striker will give you a significant reduction in pull again. The little hump actually pushes the striker back a tiny bit when pulling the trigger so reducing the hump will reduce the pull. Polishing/rounding the plunger will smooth things a bit- some of the grindiness comes from this.
Some words of caution: Mine came out great. It still doesn't have the crisp break like I like form a traditional Sig/1911 sear/hammer set up but the pull is quite a bit better for sure. However the little pieces are tough to file/polish and keep things perfectly square. Take it slow. I'm sure Burwell would have done a much better job than I did however the cost of parts are so cheap that if I screwed up I could just put things back together again- for the cost of a one way ship via FedEx! I wish I had rounded my FP plunger a tad more but I didn't want to screw with the safety mechanism too much.
FYI- I test fired it tonight and it worked just flawless. Groups for me were a little tighter that previous even with pace.
I might try it again with another sear assembly to get the break crisper..... it's fun stuff.
Last edited:
