If you're running an aftermarket glock trigger you best check it closely

IMO, any 'competition' grade parts should be MORE reliable than the original parts. If this is not the case, then whatever make those parts were needs to be told so they can be avoided.
Click to expand...

This denies the tradeoff of competition vs. tactical parts.

Competition shooters have less need of certain safeties. For example, I would not choose to carry a gun that could go off if dropped onto cement from waist level, but I have no hesitation whatsoever using a Series 70 style 1911 in competition. Similarly, many competition shooters disable the 1911 grip safety.

On the other hand, some safeties required by the rules of the particular competition just have to work.

While reliability is of utmost important in competition, there are some mods that can decrease reliability very slightly that are used for the significant advantage they give. For example, JP rifles offers two trigger spring weights for their AR15 style guns. While the lighter (competition) tends to be very reliable (I have never had a failure to fire), JP still recommends the heavier trigger for LE/tactical use for utmost reliability.
 
UPDATE:

I contacted Zev and they are sending out a replacement trigger with a return shipping label for the busticated part. I'll have the (hopefully) final update once it comes in and I test it out.
 
BostonBullit said:
UPDATE:

I contacted Zev and they are sending out a replacement trigger with a return shipping label for the busticated part. I'll have the (hopefully) final update once it comes in and I test it out.
Click to expand...

Any update? I got a text from Michelle Viscusi (Team Glock)who advised that her gunsmith had stated the tab behind the trigger is the problem. It wears in stock triggers but wears faster on aftermarket triggers for an unknown reason. Her trigger failed the test also so she replaced it.
 
TY43215 said:
Any update? I got a text from Michelle Viscusi (Team Glock)who advised that her gunsmith had stated the tab behind the trigger is the problem. It wears in stock triggers but wears faster on aftermarket triggers for an unknown reason. Her trigger failed the test also so she replaced it.
Click to expand...

Getting txt's from Michelle? lucky dog!

thanks for reminding me...here's the latest. I received the replacement trigger bar quickly and installed it in the gun. I tested using the same procedure of the A7 Chrono staff and the safety performed as designed. All is well right? well 2 days later I got to practice and after unboxing the gun at the safe table I tested it again; fail! it was an 80deg day and the gun had spent some time in the car before the range so I figured maybe that had something to do with it but Idoktor showed up with his G17 (had all the same issues with the same trigger) and when I told him to re-test his it was the same result even though it went right from the safe to the range.

I e-mailed Glockworx offering to take close up photos and a video of what's going on but haven't heard back and haven't had time to chase them. I know I said in my last update that the tab was busted but when I got the new one in I found that the broken look is just the shape of the thing (or they sent me another broken one). There's just not enough material on that safety tab down below the slit it rides up into, it stops the trigger for a second and then slips up into the recess when a small amount of pressure is applied.

Stock trigger bar is back in the gun....kids soccer is in full swing and weather's getting cold so I have plenty of time to work things out...
 
BostonBullit said:
Getting txt's from Michelle? lucky dog!

thanks for reminding me...here's the latest. I received the replacement trigger bar quickly and installed it in the gun. I tested using the same procedure of the A7 Chrono staff and the safety performed as designed. All is well right? well 2 days later I got to practice and after unboxing the gun at the safe table I tested it again; fail! it was an 80deg day and the gun had spent some time in the car before the range so I figured maybe that had something to do with it but Idoktor showed up with his G17 (had all the same issues with the same trigger) and when I told him to re-test his it was the same result even though it went right from the safe to the range.

I e-mailed Glockworx offering to take close up photos and a video of what's going on but haven't heard back and haven't had time to chase them. I know I said in my last update that the tab was busted but when I got the new one in I found that the broken look is just the shape of the thing (or they sent me another broken one). There's just not enough material on that safety tab down below the slit it rides up into, it stops the trigger for a second and then slips up into the recess when a small amount of pressure is applied.

Stock trigger bar is back in the gun....kids soccer is in full swing and weather's getting cold so I have plenty of time to work things out...
Click to expand...


Yeah, I'm old enough to be her Grandfather so she feels safe. Besides, with her boxing career, she could kick my butt :) but yes we even exchanged dog pictures [smile]

A friend that has been a Glock Armorer since Glocks became popular LE Firearms said he was aware of this problem as soon as I mentioned it. I can see it in an older stock trigger group I have compared to a new Gen 4 Trigger group but he advised that the tab on stock stuff wears from dry fire and live fire and on aftermarket and gunsmith "Tuned" triggers, they slice the tab and slice it too much.

He said they have supposedly solved the wear problem with the Gen 4
 
Glockworx claims their trigger is production legal because as they say

"The ZEV Tech Standard Trigger features a welded tab inside the trigger pad that is not visible (thus being IDPA SSP and USPSA Production legal) that shortens the amount of trigger pre-travel."

This tab in the trigger is just idiotic in my opinion but the main issue is, it is not a factory trigger. It is one of their manufacture. Not only must mods be not visible, but more importantly it clearly states in the rule book as seen below that replacing the trigger with a non-oem trigger is not production legal.

21.6 Exchange of minor EXTERNAL components
Sights, firing pins, firing pin retainers, extractors and
ejectors MAY be replaced with OEM or aftermarket
parts.
Any other components which are externally visible
may ONLY be replaced with OEM parts which are
offered on the specific model of gun or another
approved gun from the same manufacturer except as
specifically clarified below. Examples of external
components which may only be replaced with OEM
parts include (but are not limited to): magazine
releases, slide stops, thumb safeties and triggers.
Special Notes/Clarifications:
• Barrels are considered “external parts” and are sub-
ject to specific restrictions in 21.4 and associated
rulings.
• A factory/OEM magazine release which extends
only the length of the magazine release may be used.
A magazine release which provides larger surface
area (paddles, buttons) may only be used if it is an
OEM part available on an approved model of gun.
• Externally-visible parts from “custom shop” guns
will only be considered “OEM parts” if the custom-
shop gun is on the NROI list of approved Production
guns
 
Last edited:
Stock parts w/ a 3-1/2 lb connector. My 17 always ran great when I was shooting it and the trigger is pretty good (for a Glock).
 
MFP4073 said:
Stock parts w/ a 3-1/2 lb connector. My 17 always ran great when I was shooting it and the trigger is pretty good (for a Glock).
Click to expand...

+ 1 , shot 17 for a couple years , put ZEV trigger in for a month and took it out :( .Polished stock with(stock) minus connector, I like the stock striker spring for snappier reset .... They say Perfection, why mess with it
 

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