How do you torque on a DPMS Levange Linear Compensator?

Hardwired

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The darn thing doesn't have flats for a wrench [thinking]

I picked this one up because it supposed to send the blast forward, helps muzzle flip, inexpensive, and not too loud.

Im also looking for reasonable cost alternatives for a 2nd 556 that are not too loud - flameballs for effect are ok.
 
One way to do it with that compensator is to get two short steel rods that are as close to the diameter of the small gas ports around the periphery of the muzzle end. Put some masking tape on the rods to take up any gap and to prevent scratching your comp. Insert them into opposite holes in the comp. Then you can use a wrench or vice grips, or even a crowbar or a longer and thicker steel rod or 2x4 or anything to crank on the comp using the protruding two rods as a grip or pivot point for your tool of choice. Just grip/pivot the tool right at the end of the break so you don't bend the rods which would make it tough to get the torque you need to get it where you need it.

If you don't have the right steel rods, you can use allen wrenches that are the closest size to the ID of the gas ports.

Hopefully you understand what I am explaining. If not, I can mock up a picture. But that should do it!
 
I have one, used a strap wrench to put it on. Two pins and a long screwdriver would also work at Mattyd7 suggested.
 
So I can get away without using a Torque wrench and hand tighten against the crush washer using vice grips? I don't want this thing flying off.

i see some strap wrenches with 6" strap but they seem to be for larger diameter items like oil filters and caps. Not sure if they can be adjusted or wrapped around the item for the shorter diameter compensator.

A vice grip end or strap that has a 3/8" for the torque wrench would be good I would think to clamp on the pins or around the Levange
 
The idea is to crush the crush washer and then index it to the direction you want. Since that comp doesn't really have an "up" direction, I would probably recommend just going until the crush washer is close to flattened out. Don't overdo it, its not necessary. The idea of the crush washer is that it will create torque by exerting force against the comp once it starts to crush. Think about how most people use them, right? We go hand tight, then use the wrench to start flattening the washer, then turn to align "up" and then stop. The final torque is what it is. I have one that I had to go almost an extra 300 degrees to align, and another that I only had to go about 180 degrees, and both never move. So don't overthink it for this. As long as the washer is starting to crush, its not coming off. If you're really worried and want some peace of mind, scribe a line on the bottom out of sight with something you can easily clean off later like wax pencil or even a sharpie, and after shooting check it. It'll most likely be exactly where it should be. Then you can clean it off with some acetone or oil.
 
A set of vice grips with curved jaws and a piece of leather for a cushion should do the trick. I own a strap wrench that I use on barrel nuts but I doubt that it could get a solid grip on a small diameter like a comp.
 
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