Help with electronic safe lock needed

[JackO]

After about 10 years of using my Winchester safe with an electronic lock (a cheap but reasonably large one from Costco), the keypad finally failed. It was failing gradually: first it would open on the second attempt dialing in the correct combination, rejecting the first one as wrong one, then stopped accepting the combo at all. Luckily after several failed attempts and 5 minutes lockouts after every 3 "wrong" combinations, the lock opened.

Now I need either a replacement keypad, or a new lock and keypad. Another option is to replace it with a mechanical dial lock. If I want to replace just a keypad, I need to find the same model that was originally installed in 2009. Winchester tech support is virtually nonexistent. They don't answer the phones, just suggest you send them an email. I can't find on line a keypad to a Granit Secirity Products Lock (original Winchester). Below is a picture of the failed keypad.



There are plenty of electronic lock/keypad on the market in the price range $100-$200. Obviously, they are not a high security locks, but the "safe" is neither. it's just a metal security box, nothing else.

The question is, what an experienced people would recommend?
An interesting option is aSecuRam SafeLogic Xtreme safe lock:
https://www.amazon.com/SecuRam-Safe...teway&sprefix=securam,aps,135&sr=8-3-fkmrnull
It's a combination of an electronic keypad and a dial lock, but it's pretty expensive, $350. The whole "safe" cost was about $500-$600.

The cheaper option is to replace the existing lock with either electronic one (what brand/models?) or a mechanical one, for example:
https://www.amazon.com/Sargent-Gree...ent+safe+lock&qid=1557775460&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[icyclefar]

I put one of these on a Winchester for a friend. Easy install and reliable enough.

AMSEC ESL10XL Deadbolt Lock w/ Brass Keypad

 

[watchman]

Sounds cheaper to buy a new safe in that price point than replacing the lock. I myself would buy a better safe with a better lock so in the future I wouldn't have problems. You do realize there are safes that are over a 100 years old with mechanical locks still working today.

 

[JackOfAllTrades]

Were it me, I would just put a mechanical S&G on it and be done. Right around $100 for the kit.

Yes, it takes longer to get into the safe, but I am not planning on needing seconds count speed to 10+ firearms. There are other solutions for when seconds count.

I would probably take the existing electronic lock out of the safe to see what sort of holes and such I have to cover and what the mounting all looks like. Odds are a kit like what you have in the second link would be all you need. You can read the instructions to see what you are getting into, but it is fairly simple.

I love how we don't want electronics in our firearms as they have to work no matter what, but we love the electronic locks on our safes...

 

[EddieZoom]

Were it me, I would just put a mechanical S&G on it and be done. Right around $100 for the kit.

+1

 

[67ray]

Pretty sure you will need different guts for the door of the safe if you decide to switch over to mechanical

 

[Asaltweapon]

Pretty sure you will need different guts for the door of the safe if you decide to switch over to mechanical

Not so sure about that. Both my safes were converted from manual to electronic.

 

[Rob Boudrie]

Pretty sure you will need different guts for the door of the safe if you decide to switch over to mechanical

You would be wrong.

As long as we're talking "regular safe locks" (not special purpose cheapies built for some really low-end containers), they all use the same basic footprint. The external mounting is most commonly the S&G "Magic module" footprint.

The first thing you need to do is determine if your lock has a swing bolt or draw bolt. They are not interchangeable, and all of the dual mechanical/electrical locks I have seen are swing bolts. Swing bolts pivot out of the way; draw bolts retract into the case and look like a deadbolt lock. Spring bolts lock are rarely used on safes.

S&G is good, although Big Red also seems to show some promise. I like the dual-purpose mechanical/combo locks and would suggest you consider one if yours is a swing bolt. Beware some of the early S&G electronic locks that use a nylon worm gear to draw the bolt back. For electronic, go with a Mas-Hamilton X-## series lock if you can afford it. (lol).

Group II mechanical reduces your chances of someone with graph paper opening the lock; Group IIm is better and Group I even more so. But, if it just a gun safe, consider Group II (simpler mechanism, less to go wrong). Be sure to get a combo change key with the lock. Avoid the "r" suffix unless you are concerned with someone bringing in a portable X-ray machine, as the nylon wheels are less durable.

S&G mechanical "pull offs" can be had cheap on ebay from buyers or merchants who "upgraded" (?WTF!!) containers to electronic locks. Be sure to get a model with brass rather than zymac (zinc alloy pot metal) wheels and the +/- .5 dialing window rather than +/- 1.25 on the model with zymac.

 

[wjsmall97]

I know this might sound pretty basic, BUT did you try replacing the battery. it sounds like what mine does when the battery start to die.

 

[Alex9661]

I replaced my perfectly operational electronic lock on it's 10th birthday because I read that these things start failing when they are about 10yo. Multiple sources recommended Amsec ESL10 so that's what I used. There's a gentleman on arfcom (TheSafeGuy?) who's a big honcho at Amsec who posted the failure rate of different kinds of locks they use on their safes, and reliability wise ESL10 is comparable to mechanical locks.

The only issue with ESL10 is that they make it as a deadbolt body only. I was able to replace my swingbolt lock with ESL10, YMMV.

 

[Len-2A Training]

Call Eastern Security and ask them. I bought a take-off S&G mechanical lock from them for a failed lock on a small old safe, and it was short money.

 

[Spanz]

yeah i too would just buy a new nicer safe.

You can add a hasp and padlock to this old one, and use it for storing ammo or something like that

 

[Rob Boudrie]

Call Eastern Security and ask them. I bought a take-off S&G mechanical lock from them for a failed lock on a small old safe, and it was short money.

I know it's a bit of a thread resurrection, but if you get a used S&G or similar, be sure to get a new spline key and not try to reuse the old one. These are a "install once, discard if removed" part.