Is hand loaded ammo automatically more accurate than factory because of inconsistencies in factory production or do you have to tinker with loads to find out what works best in your gun? I'm planning to enter some High Power matches this summer. As a casual shooter factory loads have always been more than adequate. I'm thinking about reloading but am not sure if it is really worth it considering the relatively limited amount of shooting I do. Even at $11 a box it would be a while before it would be cost effective. My question is not really about the money. I just want to know if any noob, with a new Dillon, would start cranking ammo more accurate than Hornady, Prvi or Black Hills factory match loads.
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Handloads vs Factory Match Ammo
- Thread starter Zeke
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I shot Black Hills blue box my first year. When you're just getting started you have better things to worry about than loading ammo in my opinion. That said, it's not really that hard to load your own and there are a few "go to" loads that are time tested.
In any case, it's high power, not bench rest. The 10 ring is HUGE.
Cant speak for Hornady match ammo (Heard good things, never used it personally)
Had HORRIBLE luck with Prvi "Match" .308....and in turn wouldn't shoot their .223 stuff at any sort of distance.
Black Hills blue box will clean the whole damned course if you do your part.
could save a few bucks and shoot 55gr stuff @ 200/300, and BH 77's @ 600...but once you get past your basics/start shooting well, you'll want BH for 200/300 too.
like Jasons said....the 10 ring is effing HUGE....once your wobble/hold gets better than your bench/scoped/whatever groups, then start looking at your ammo. until then, BH will suit you just fine
as far as reloads...theres no real "tuning to the gun" in HP. we all shoot pretty much the exact same loading. some shoot it well, some don't. it's usually not the ammo (or the guns) fault.
Had HORRIBLE luck with Prvi "Match" .308....and in turn wouldn't shoot their .223 stuff at any sort of distance.
Black Hills blue box will clean the whole damned course if you do your part.
could save a few bucks and shoot 55gr stuff @ 200/300, and BH 77's @ 600...but once you get past your basics/start shooting well, you'll want BH for 200/300 too.
like Jasons said....the 10 ring is effing HUGE....once your wobble/hold gets better than your bench/scoped/whatever groups, then start looking at your ammo. until then, BH will suit you just fine
as far as reloads...theres no real "tuning to the gun" in HP. we all shoot pretty much the exact same loading. some shoot it well, some don't. it's usually not the ammo (or the guns) fault.
Last edited:
cockpitbob
NES Member
It all depends on the gun. It will have a preference for....something. Some will perform great with factory stuff and some will only give you what you want with the 2nd or 4th hand load you tried on it. Start with factory stuff and see if the gun shoots better than you do. If not, they you will want to start tinkering with loads.
Short answer is no. You will first need to put the time into creating reloads that work best for your application. You will need to go through the process of bullet selection, choosing what powder and the right amount of powder that works best for you and your gun, and even the best path for sizing your brass. Some long range shooters claim that you will find noticeable differences in accuracy if you neck size, or use a mix of brass casings instead of staying consistent with one headstamp.
Once you get used to reloading you will certainly have the ability to create cheaper and more accurate loads, but there is definitely a learning curve. I would absolutely recommend you to start reloading, but just don't expect to have flawless reloads from the start. There is always something more you can learn that you can use to improve your loads.
No, the new reloader w/ no knowledge of his rifle or reloading will not. Over time you'll get to know thru trial and error what works.
Cost aside, reloading has this advantage. Every gun has attributes that are similar, but ultimately unique (chamber headspace, barrel harmonics, amount of free bore etc). The ammo manufacturers know alot about making ammo but they have to make something that works well in "most" rifles. They don't know what your rifle is like, but over time you will if you are a stickler for detail. This is why you can do what they can't.
The noob know's even less about his rifle than the ammo manufacturers let alone his ignorance about getting the most out of reloading. It will take time, you will have failures. All part of the fun when you get it right.
putting HP aside, as I too will be heading out for a few matches this year for the 1st time and I will be shooting my reloads.
I never had the chance to do any real test between factory fodder and Match grade factory ammo. I have only done factory bulk or surplus vs my reloads.
I will start with my 30-06 reloads for my M1 Garand
Hornady makes Garand safe ammo for range plinking runs 1.00 per round then the Amax target ammo for about 1.25 round
Greek surplus runs .55 per round
my reloads with hornady 150 grain FMJ or 168 grain FMJ run .33 per round (I scored a few thousand of ea for the same money)
Hornady factory ammo I can shoot my Garand prone @ 100 yards and when I do my part I get fist size groups.
Greek ammo, lets say a good day they are all in the black of a SR 1 target
My reloads which I use Varget powder I started at the low end of the powder charge and worked up in .5 grain intervals and like magic I hit a sweet spot with the 168s and powder charge. Now my Garand when I shooting my best is just under 3" groups with consistancy my best score @ 100 yard reduced target is 408 with my reloads. Before reloading I was struggling with mid 300s.
Now my AR Im loading my 223 rounds for .12 ea (buying bulk bullets pays off IF you know the bullets your going to like) these are 55 gr plinking rounds.
As for increase in accuracy vs the bulk 7-10$ a box off the shelf stuff like night and day.
Will my reloads shoot as well as Match ammo I highly doubt it. Will I shoot good enough to see a difference between my Reloads with nice boolits and match, I dont think so. So I will take the reloads @ 1/2 to 1/3 the price.
If I actual get more time than I do now to practice live fire I may focus more on ammo.
I never had the chance to do any real test between factory fodder and Match grade factory ammo. I have only done factory bulk or surplus vs my reloads.
I will start with my 30-06 reloads for my M1 Garand
Hornady makes Garand safe ammo for range plinking runs 1.00 per round then the Amax target ammo for about 1.25 round
Greek surplus runs .55 per round
my reloads with hornady 150 grain FMJ or 168 grain FMJ run .33 per round (I scored a few thousand of ea for the same money)
Hornady factory ammo I can shoot my Garand prone @ 100 yards and when I do my part I get fist size groups.
Greek ammo, lets say a good day they are all in the black of a SR 1 target
My reloads which I use Varget powder I started at the low end of the powder charge and worked up in .5 grain intervals and like magic I hit a sweet spot with the 168s and powder charge. Now my Garand when I shooting my best is just under 3" groups with consistancy my best score @ 100 yard reduced target is 408 with my reloads. Before reloading I was struggling with mid 300s.
Now my AR Im loading my 223 rounds for .12 ea (buying bulk bullets pays off IF you know the bullets your going to like) these are 55 gr plinking rounds.
As for increase in accuracy vs the bulk 7-10$ a box off the shelf stuff like night and day.
Will my reloads shoot as well as Match ammo I highly doubt it. Will I shoot good enough to see a difference between my Reloads with nice boolits and match, I dont think so. So I will take the reloads @ 1/2 to 1/3 the price.
If I actual get more time than I do now to practice live fire I may focus more on ammo.
If one is talking about bolt guns used for precision shooting, the big advantage of handloaded rounds is that one can tailor the COAL for your rifle's chamber and leade. Assuming use of a quality bullet (e.g., SMKs), I have found the "jump" variable to have a bigger influence on group size that any other single factor.
guys.
READ the OP.
he's talking about reloading for high-power.
you're shooting gas guns (ar-15 variants as a rule) with iron sights, from 200-600 yards.
if you can tell me the difference in group size "tuning the jump" with iron sights @ 600 yards, well, might as well shoot this sport....cause you'd be holding hard enough to win the damned nationals. otherwise, if the ammo shoots MOA or better, you really have no excuses.
dont over think the reloading for this stuff man. find a load that works well enough, and shoot a PALLET of it. you'll see far bigger gains from trigger control than you will from any sort of reloading tricks.
READ the OP.
he's talking about reloading for high-power.
you're shooting gas guns (ar-15 variants as a rule) with iron sights, from 200-600 yards.
if you can tell me the difference in group size "tuning the jump" with iron sights @ 600 yards, well, might as well shoot this sport....cause you'd be holding hard enough to win the damned nationals. otherwise, if the ammo shoots MOA or better, you really have no excuses.
dont over think the reloading for this stuff man. find a load that works well enough, and shoot a PALLET of it. you'll see far bigger gains from trigger control than you will from any sort of reloading tricks.
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Dude, you're just trying to keep your super secret reloading tricks to yourself. Hoarding all those high master scores and not sharing with all of us poor lowly experts. Big jerk.
hey, i've given up almost all my tricks. you're getting the last one in the AM (the glasses)
can't shoot it if you can't see it. that's my big secret. look at the front sight. point front sight @ target. when it looks likes a 10, pull the trigger. repeat until empty.
can't shoot it if you can't see it. that's my big secret. look at the front sight. point front sight @ target. when it looks likes a 10, pull the trigger. repeat until empty.
Most of the accuracy is simply going to come from choosing a good/appropriate bullet. If you don't want to get into reloading then don't. There is the added expense of a tumbler of some kind and trimming cases which is a PITA. However you can buy new LC cases for cheap money and just load them on a single stage press.
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