Fixing Pitting and Blueing a rifle

[BigMike]

Asking this question for my brother down in TN.

He has a buddy at work who mentioned that he had a 60's Marlin Lever that's been in his closet for 20+ years. My brother said he'd like to see it, and clean it for him.

When my brother got the gun, he notice there was some pitting on the barrel and asked me about blueing guns. Don't know why he thinks I know a damn thing about it but ok!

The owner of the gun doesn't care to get the issues fixed if it costs him money. My brother OTOH would like to gain some experience by fixing the issues for free.

So my questions are the following:

1) How do you address minor pitting?

2) How do you address MAJOR pitting? (just in case)

3) What is the best blueing kit you can get? (are they all the same pretty much?)


I had told him that if I were determined to fix those issues and was ok changing the stock condition of the gun, I imagine one would sand down the pitting, then weld up those spots, and sand down again. Like I said, I don't know anything about it!

(personally, if the rifling was good I'd try to wrestle gun away from owner for a song and not "fix" the pitting so much as take steps to clean out pits and prevent them from getting worse.)

As far as the blueing goes, I told him I overheard a conversation in a shop down there that (for pistols) the blue the gun and chuck it in a toaster oven. I postulated that the reason why blueing kits are cheap, is that it is a cheap finish. But something in my gut tells me that a hot blueing is better than a "cold blueing" kit he saw.

Any info/expertise you guys can share will be appreciated.

 

[rattletrap1970]

Bluing kits suck. Period.
If you want nice bluing you are going to have to pay or work for it. You can slow rust blue and do a damn fine job, it just takes time. Otherwise have a competent gunsmith do a proper salt blue. And don't listen to anyone talking about chucking anything in an oven. You are dealing with critically hardened and stress relieved parts and can very easily turn your firearm into a grenade.

 

[bpm990d]

Depending what part of the rifle (like a flat side of a lever gun) you can file them out. If I remember correctly the Midway USA video library has some how too videos showing the technique.

B

 

[mac1911]

home blueing or cold blueing has a range of success. I have had best results with shooters solution brand blueing.
Set up cost is a lot high to do a proper hot tank blue.

I have used brownells oxpho blue with decent results on spot work. You can also practice on old impact sockets or other simular metals. Most people do not follow the directions or give up just before the product starts to work. I found this to be true with oxpho-blue it really seems to take a while(rubbing) before it starts to show its workings. The hard part is getting a nice even finish.

heres a good selection of midways videos http://www.wonderhowto.com/creator/www.midwayusa.com/ theres many videos.

 

[travis]

Rebluing is not easy or fast and you need tanks and the right salts and heaters I use gas. I have done many in my outbuilding where my equipment is set up.

First you have to address the rust/pitting this could be cleaned up with steel wool if not then you have to go to harsher measures Ie bead / sand or soda blasting then get out your sandpaper and clean up the pitting blending to sanded ares into the surrounding metal then you reblue.

For home fix you can get bake on paint that is much easier for the home DIY person. Duracoat is another GREAT option but there again you need a good airbrush and all duracoating should have the surface should be blasted FIRST to insure adhesion.

Those bluing kits are fine for small touch ups but are not at all suited for rebluing a whole firearm of large areas.

If you want to restore the weapon then it is going to cost you in either hiring a smith or buying equipment. You can however fix it up fairly easy with one of the above mentioned methods.

Feel free to pm me any questions if you want further advice or assistance.