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Economy

No doubt a class would be good. I might take one, if I ever get a rifle caliber to reload for. But I didn't take a class to learn how to drive--I already had done that. Nor have I taken a class to shoot. There's a lot of things I've tried first, then went to a class to go further. Or found the initial taste bad enough to know I didn't want to go further.

For me, I have to put my hands onto it a few times, come to learn the terms, know the actions--then a class makes sense, as I'll know what questions to ask, and I'll know what I don't know.

I think a class would be fun to go to, now I can gauge just how well I've self-taught--or how deluded I really am.
 
kittery used to offer a free class.

i went to the intro, but it was not very good at all. the guy teaching the class had no order at all, he really just rambled for a few hours barely touching on generalizations about tools and supplies.

terrible class. 2 hour drive both ways in bad snow for nothing.

he was knowledgeable, just not very organized. so if you had questions i imagine he would be able to answer them.
 
Just curious if anyone knew of a good class. I see people suggested taking a class but I've never heard of one. It would be great if there was an NRA type class on reloading. I read the "ABC's of Reloading" but to be honest it didn't tell me anything I didn't already read on the internet or saw on youtube.

It didn't even go into much on progressive presses either and it seemed pretty dated.
 
Patriot said:
I don't think a beginners class is going to expand greatly the horizon of anyone that has already started reloading successfully.
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It depends on the class and what the shooter has already been reloading. I taught myself rifle reloading after loading straight-walled cartridges for years. I definitely would've benefited from a class.

MmkShooter said:
Just curious if anyone knew of a good class. I see people suggested taking a class but I've never heard of one. It would be great if there was an NRA type class on reloading. I read the "ABC's of Reloading" but to be honest it didn't tell me anything I didn't already read on the internet or saw on youtube.

It didn't even go into much on progressive presses either and it seemed pretty dated.
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I'm teaching three NRA reloading classes at GOAL. There's still some space in the April class. The NRA class doesn't go into progressive presses very much other than to briefly describe how they work. Something like that almost requires a separate class for each machine as they all operate differently, and have their own idiosyncrasies. The NRA class lasts two nights, and there simply isn't enough time to go into progressives in any sort of depth.

If you want to learn about progressive presses, select a press then find someone that sells them that gives a class. Kittery and other shops do this. The class will not be objective - after all they're trying to sell you something (which doesn't mean the class isn't good). Your other option is to find someone with a progressive press that is willing to show you how it works.
 
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And, since we are promoting Learning Opportunities, mine is an all day (9 hour) class, and is very hands on. You'll build pistol and rifle ammo, and learn how to do it safely. We cover bullet selection (where all reloading should begin), powder selection, etc. You learn by doing. The class isn't as much a lecture as a guided learning experience. At the end of one day, you'll be a safe, successful, and frugal reloader. You'll also have a wonderful sense for which type of equipment suits you, and why. You'll also know what accessories are a must have, and why. I cover a lot of $$$ savings tips, well worth the cost of the class. I provide all materials. You bring a lunch and the guns that you will test fire your ammo in. The class is very organized and complete. I limit the class size to three or four students so that everyone get the chance to learn at their own pace. There's a lot to learn, and 9 hours is barely enough to pack it all into.

Details for schedule, etc are in my tagline.

I'm located a mere 20 minutes from the Cabelas in Scarborough, ME and am about 40 minutes from Kittery Trading Post, just for reference. I have had lots of NES'ers come to take the class, and can offer many testimonials.
 
I took Duke's class, and it was great. I'm a smart guy and could certainly have figured out everything on my own, but taking an all-day, hands-on course was a huge jump start. I got home and ordered my progressive press the next day, because I knew exactly what I needed. Building a bench in the basement now.

I highly recommend taking a course to get started.
 
I just reloaded 500 .45AR for the incredible price of:

$15 - primers ($3/100)
$6 - powder
$7 - bullets (.50/Lb allocated for lead)
$5 - brass (.01 each - my standard charge per time reload for pistol brass)
$33 - total

Midway price (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=874107)

Approximately $450

There are slight differences such as bullet weight (200gr vs 255gr) but essentially the same cartridge. Think there is a big mark up on ammunition? [rofl2]
 
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Patriot said:
I just reloaded 500 .45AR for the incredible price of:

$15 - primers ($3/100)
$6 - powder
$7 - bullets (.50/Lb allocated for lead)
$5 - brass (.01 each - my standard charge per time reload for pistol brass)
$33 - total

Midway price (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=874107)

Approximately $450

There are slight differences such as bullet weight (200gr vs 255gr) but essentially the same cartridge. Think there is a big mark up on ammunition? [rofl2]
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Nice! [smile]
 
I've been reloading .223 for my S&W M&P15 for about a month now. I'm using the Lee Challenger single stage anniversary kit and I'm quite happy with it so far. It was about $90 plus shipping from Midway (BTW, they give you a decent discount when it's your birthday!) I also bought the .223 Pacesetter dies and the Lee Reloading Manual at the same time for about $26 + $12 +ship. So I got setup for pretty small $.

I'm in MA so here's what I've been paying for components: [thinking]

CCI #400 Sm Rifle Primers @ $19.99/1000 (on sale in CT)
Hornady 55 gr FMJBTw/c @ $11.99/100 (on sale in CT)
1 lb H335 powder @ $25.99

By my calculation, using 23.2 grains of H335 I can load about 300 rounds with a pound of powder.

I'm using range brass so no cost for this so far.

So, per round cost (including sales tax) comes to:
Primer = $.021
Bullet = $.127
Powder = $.092
Total = $.24

Without sale prices this jumps to about $.28 a round.

I've paid about $.40 a round for Federal Eagle XM-193 in 200 round quantities.

Of course, these costs don't include gas, etc. for running around to get the stuff or your time for making the cartridges.

So the savings is about 40% at today's prices. Not spectacular but decent considering the fun you have making your own!

Foggy65
 
foggy65 said:
I've been reloading .223 for my S&W M&P15 for about a month now. I'm using the Lee Challenger single stage anniversary kit and I'm quite happy with it so far. It was about $90 plus shipping from Midway (BTW, they give you a decent discount when it's your birthday!) I also bought the .223 Pacesetter dies and the Lee Reloading Manual at the same time for about $26 + $12 +ship. So I got setup for pretty small $.

I'm in MA so here's what I've been paying for components: [thinking]

CCI #400 Sm Rifle Primers @ $19.99/1000 (on sale in CT)
Hornady 55 gr FMJBTw/c @ $11.99/100 (on sale in CT)
1 lb H335 powder @ $25.99

By my calculation, using 23.2 grains of H335 I can load about 300 rounds with a pound of powder.

I'm using range brass so no cost for this so far.

So, per round cost (including sales tax) comes to:
Primer = $.021
Bullet = $.127
Powder = $.092
Total = $.24

Without sale prices this jumps to about $.28 a round.

I've paid about $.40 a round for Federal Eagle XM-193 in 200 round quantities.

Of course, these costs don't include gas, etc. for running around to get the stuff or your time for making the cartridges.

So the savings is about 40% at today's prices. Not spectacular but decent considering the fun you have making your own!

Foggy65
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That's about right for .223. Think of it this way. You get almost twice as much fun for the same amount of money as
you would get if you had to purchase the ammo. Reloading rule-of-thumb = the more obscure the ammunition the
greater the savings.
 
foggy65 think of it this way you saved 40% over US manufactured ammo....really thats huge. You also end up with ammo thats 1000% better than the cheap steel cased stuff for about the same saveings. You also can cash in your brass when no longer loadable.

You can deapen your saveings by buying in bulk( 20.00/1000 was a great price) I found a good deal on 55 grain hornady FMJ .224 400.00/6000 free shipping .07ea
I found Varget powder in bulk for 18.50lb shipped and just paid 15.00/1000 for wolf primers for the 5.56 and they worked just as good as the CCI 41. Accuracy was on par with the 41s. I dont have a crony yet so cant compare there.

I could not be happier with going with reloading and even though I spent a small fortune on equipment and componants I wont be running around from shop to shop trying to find all the things I need and no longer paying double to shoot.

to date
30-06 reloading
CMP surplus runs .53 rnd I shot 500 rounds last year 265.00
Reloads cost me .31 rnd I shot 360(500 for compared saveings) to date 155.00 thats 110.00 saved already paid for my die set and some goodies for my recent 30 carbine purchase(mags dies ect ect)
 
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As Patriot said the more obscure the caliber the more you save. .45/60 Winchester ammo is $2.30 per round. It costs me 13 cents a round to make.
 
I have an app for my iPhone I use when shopping for components... It's called the handloader and is a calculation matrix for determining your ammo cost and yield from the powder. It is really neat and only a buck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
A friend of mine called me up on Saturday after dinner and asked if my wife and I wanted to come over for a couple beers and to watch a few criminals "ride the tazer lightning" on Cops. He asked me what I was doing, I told him "reloading". He asked why, I asked him if Obama was still the President. End of conversation.
 
Economy may be the justification for reloading, but its rarely the driving motivator. Cost savings benefits are generally considered in retrospect. Most folks I know who do reload tend to be wired a certain way. Most have the self sufficiency gene that would drive them to do it even if economy wasn't a factor. They spend $1000 building furniture they could've bought for $400. They change their own oil, chisel and weld broken stuff that most would throw out. The cost savings are real, but that's just frosting on the chocolate cake.

If you are the type that calls an electrician to add another outlet in your basement or pays someone to replace your windshield blades, you probably won't dig reloading even if it saves you money; it'll just feel like work. If you like spending your alone time making and figuring stuff out, then you'll probably like it. That and the money.
 
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I've always thought that when my arsenal is "significant" and I have a variety of calibers, I will look into re-loading. One question though, sorry if this comes across as noob-ish... is no one concerned about handling all that lead?
 
I use plated bullets - no bare lead. A bigger concern for me is handling the spent cartridge cases, as the tumbler media collects powder residue.
 
If avoidance of lead is your concern, you might want to take up a different hobby. Until ranges convert to lead-free bullets (frangibles, solids, etc) and clean their facilities, you will likely always be subject to some lead exposure. You can keep your distance from anyone shooting cast bullets and avoid poorly ventilated ranges, but there will likely be a slight trace of lead at any shooting venue. I guess it comes down to taking basic precautions really.
Yes, you can minimize it at the reloading bench by using plated, TMJ, or the above-mentioned lead-free bullets. And don't play in the dirt at the bullet trap or consider going into the scrap lead and casting business.
 
There have been a few threads here about the dangers of lead. My take is as follows:

1) Airborne lead from indoor shooting is harmful, particularly if you do it on a regular basis. I don't shoot indoors, but if I did I would use a respirator designed to filter out lead.
2) If you have young rugrats, it's easier for them to get lead poisoning because of their smaller body mass, not to mention their tendency to put stuff into their mouths. My reloading area was off limits to my kids when they were younger.
3) I avoid dust from my tumblers for reason #1.

I've been reloading and casting for decades. I've handled bulk lead both with and without gloves over that time. I couldn't begin to count the number of cast bullets I've handled in that time. My blood tests for lead have never shown elevated levels. My doctor says it's pointless to continue doing testing unless my exposure level changes. He's far more concerned about my cigarette smoking than my lead exposure. [laugh] (For many years I smoked while I was casting, which, in retrospect, was a stupid thing to do.) I do use a vent hood when I am casting. I do my bulk smelting, to get ingots, outdoors.

My personal conclusion is that handling solid lead and casting bullets for personal use is a difficult way to get lead poisoning. Not medical or professional advice, just personal experience.

YMMV.
 
From what I've read it appears lead bullets the least of the concerns, lead in primers or otherwise particulated into a breathable form are the culprits to look out for.
 
As I am getting into reloading, I plan on picking up some nitrile gloves to limit the lead to skin exposure when handling dirty cases and other lead heavy materials. I also use jacketed bullets right now. I do shoot indoors when the weather is bad or the outdoor range is covered in snow but make sure I have the ventilation fans on.
 
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