Dillon 550 vs 650

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ravencon

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An acquaintance of mine has both the Dillon 550 and the 650. He says the 650 can produce quite a few more rounds per hour than the 550. But, he also says caliber changeovers are much slower. Hence, he recommends the 550 as more suitable press for a beginning reloader.

Can anyone comment on their experiences with ease and time of caliber changeovers for either of these presses. Thanks.
 
The 55ob is easier to switch calibers and the priming arms are easier to switch
remove 2 screws and your done. The 650's priming arm is a pain to say the least. It took me 10 min to get out the primer arm and getting a wrench on the assembly is awkward to say the least. Now I just put the primer arm in finger tight and it stays put.
The 650 has the advantage in the amount of ammo you can load as it indexes automatically but the 550 is more able to handle rifle cartridges.
The new case feeder for the 550should speed up the loading process quite a bit
 
Does the 550 auto-index? I wouldn't get a press without auto-indexing. Too easy to double charge if you get sloppy. That being said, many have gone a lifetime without auto-indexing just fine, some haven't.
 
Dillon's suck for caliber change overs period. I do not know if this applies to the 1050. If you want to do a large variety of calibers and small batches of each caliber then don't go with Dillon. I do large runs in each caliber to avoid having to deal with disassembling the whole press and priming system and then resetting the powder measure.
 
I find caliber changes on my 650 to be pretty easy, even when you have to switch primer sizes. It isn't like you have to adjust anything.

The 1050 is more expensive, and I've heard, more involved in terms of caliber changes. I dare not try one because I can buy one right now.
 
Does the 550 auto-index? I wouldn't get a press without auto-indexing. Too easy to double charge if you get sloppy.
Click to expand...
No, it doesn't autoindex. I haven't had a double charge on my 550 this way. I have gotten a large charge due to brain fade with the scale...

The 650 has a charge alarm. I have gotten a couple squib loads when I had the powder drop poorly adjusted and wasn't paying attention -- the 550 doesn't have a charge alarm. A charge alarm would have helped me. Or just paying attention
Dillon's suck for caliber change overs period. I do not know if this applies to the 1050. If you want to do a large variety of calibers and small batches of each caliber then don't go with Dillon. I do large runs in each caliber to avoid having to deal with disassembling the whole press and priming system and then resetting the powder measure.
Click to expand...
Huh? I never reset the powder measure or any of they dies -- I've got a tool head and powder measure for each caliber.

If I don't have to change the primer size, pull two pins, remove the tool head. The case plate requires a bit of fiddling to remove, replace, and adjust. So it takes 10-15 minutes to change calibers, tops.
 
M1911 said:
Huh? I never reset the powder measure or any of they dies -- I've got a tool head and powder measure for each caliber.
Click to expand...
Powder measures at 60 dollars a pop? Modern powder measures allow you to dial in an adjustment, one powder measure for most things. If you want to spend 200+ or more on powder measures for the many calibers you reload then yes. And the tool heads are another 20 bucks, it adds up quickly if you truly want to be multi-caliber.
 
GTOShootr said:
I find caliber changes on my 650 to be pretty easy, even when you have to switch primer sizes. It isn't like you have to adjust anything.

The 1050 is more expensive, and I've heard, more involved in terms of caliber changes. I dare not try one because I can buy one right now.
Click to expand...

Steve,
I used to load 38 Super and 9x21 without changing the shell plate, only the dies. .40 S&W fits my shell plate, I changed the dies, and made a new slide that moves the case from the tube to the shell plate. No big deal. It's not like the 550, but, you only buy a 1050 when you want to load a lot of one caliber, then change. Better yet, multiple 1050's!
 
I load .38, 9mm, 10mm, and .45. I've got complete toolheads for each one. I'll spend a few bucks so that I can set it and forget it and save fiddling time.
 
adweisbe said:
If you want to spend 200+ or more on powder measures for the many calibers you reload then yes. And the tool heads are another 20 bucks, it adds up quickly if you truly want to be multi-caliber.
Click to expand...

The "Deluxe quick change kits" (powder measure, tool head, powder die, and tool head stand) are $84 for the 650 and $80 for the 550.
 
M1911 said:
I load .38, 9mm, 10mm, and .45. I've got complete toolheads for each one. I'll spend a few bucks so that I can set it and forget it and save fiddling time.
Click to expand...
Why spend a "few" (500 really) bucks to load 5 or 6 different rifle and pistol calibers when you can get a more modern design like the Hornady LnL? You then have the freedom to switch loads and powders within one caliber by dialing it in instead of having to buy yet another powder dispenser. You can do it sure, but why? The warranty? Resale value?

80 dollars * 6 = 480

GTOShootr, note how I said powder measures. You are obfuscating the issue by making the price seem lower then it is. Dillon is not multi-caliber friendly and you will pay up the nose in time, money, and freedom if you want to do it all on one press.
 
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Ok, had to look up "obfuscating"... it means to confuse, make unclear. Can't see how that is if I'm just laying out the exact cost of something, not really arguing whether it is cheap or not. Actually, I'd agree with you in my reloader's case. You were dead on, dies, a quick change kit, and a caliber conversion come out to $210. It's each shooters situation that dictates whether it is the right route.
 
I don't include the cost of the dies as they are the same from press to press, I would only look at what is not common between makes. The 200 number represents what I would need to pay to get what I want for the calibers I currently reload. I don't have those things because I don't want to spend the 200 right now. To get what I want at the end of the day for the rifle and pistol calibers I am interested would cost 500 or more in just conversion kits which is a waste when you don't even have to go there.
 
If you don't want to spend extra money on tool heads for a 550 then don't. Hornady lock'n'load bushings aren't free either. In the past, I'd heard Hornady's customer support on their presses left something to be desired. You make your choice and spend your money as you see fit.
 
I owned two 550's and loaded lots of ammo on them. I sold them to buy a 650 and I've never looked back. Caliber change time is the same between them. To me caliber change is a non-issue. The 650's auto indexing, superior priming system (compared to the 550), and case feeder (which is now available for the 550) makes it the better machine. If you can afford it and you're going to load enough to justify the cost it's a no-brainer. The warranty is super - I wore out a powder measure, and Dillon replaced it for free. Every part I've worn out, Dillon replaced for free. When you call them, they know the equipment, what they're talking about, and as a bonus, they speak English without an Indian accent.

A friend of mine has owned multiple 1050's, 650's, and 550's. He loaded commercially for some time. He told me that Dillon's best all around machine is the 650. I agree.
 
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550 vs 650

Does the 650 use the same dies, die holders, and caliber conversion kits, that
the 550 uses?

What do you feel is the minimum setup required for a 650 vs just the core
machine?

The page on the Dillon website shows the 650 pictured with optional
accessories: Electric Casefeeder, Powdercheck System, Low Powder Sensor,
Roller Handle, Strong Mount and Bullet Tray.

Thanks,

TBP
 
TBP, no they are different at least wrt caliber conversion kits/plates. Dies don't matter what press you use.

If you look in a catalog or online, I think you'll find different P/Ns for most items between the 550 and 650.
 
Electric Casefeeder, Powdercheck System, Low Powder Sensor,
Roller Handle, Strong Mount and Bullet Tray.
Click to expand...
If I was ordering a 650, I'd skip the low powder sensor -- the powder measure is a clear plastic tube right in front of your face.

As for the other items:

- speed is the whole idea of the 650, so you want the casefeed
- the extra station on the 650 gives you the ability to check the powder charge, so you want the powdercheck system.
- you want the roller handle, whether you get a 550 or 650
- you want the strong mount -- it holds the machine steady and at a good height
- you want the bullet tray -- it puts the bullets up high where you can easily reach them.
 
Another advantage to the Strong mount is that it distributes the torque of the
down stroke over a wider area so it reduces the likelihood of ripping the press of your bench.
 
Dan S said:
Hornady lock'n'load bushings aren't free either.
Click to expand...
At 4 dollars a bushing with 3-4 bushings a conversion they might as well be compared to an 80 dollar kit. Free powder measures and parts are great, you know you could just buy the replacement parts and still come out ahead cash wise. Better to judge by endgame performance. Dillon's warranty is great because they charge through the roof, it isn't free, you pay for every single replacement part in advance.
 
The Boston Patriot said:
What do you feel is the minimum setup required for a 650 vs just the core
machine?
Click to expand...

BP,

M1911 was dead on. This is what Brian Enos says about the recommended options for the 650 with prices in his "Which Dillon" article:

"RFP: (Recommended First Purchase)
$479.95 - Base Price
$55.95 - Dies (sold separately)
$189.95 - Casefeeder
$36.95 - Roller Handle, Aluminum
$35.95 - Strong Mount, (650 only)
$34.95 - Bullet Tray

($103.49 - The three above options are in my Online Store as the "As It Should BE" Upgrade.)
$829.34 – RFP Total (with "BE Upgrade")"

The 550 prices and details are up there too. I agree with skipping the low powder sensor, it's right there to see. The low primer sensor is good because the primers are hidden from view.
 
GTOShootr said:
The low primer sensor is good because the primers are hidden from view.
Click to expand...
On my press I can see the tube thingy that sticks in the primer magazine to push the primers down. It is about as evident to me as the powder in the powder measure. That being said. the primer tube empties ALOT faster then the powder measure and I have set off the low primer sensor before but have never run out of powder.

The Dillon case feeder is significantly cheaper... Hadn't noticed that before. Ahh! The catch.. it feeds only one type of round, the Hornady is easily adaptable to any case type.
 
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adweisbe said:
You can do it sure, but why? The warranty? Resale value?
.
Click to expand...
I bought my first Dillon from Chad at EGuns.com about 4 years ago when he had a year end sale. I can sell it for what I paid for it with little or no effort. My first press was a Lee Progressive 1000 in 9mm which I sold 15 years ago due to alot of primer feed problems. Hornandy LNL and Lee Loadmaster are both nice presses that I considered buying. For me the deciding factor to buy Dillon was all the help I could get on GT, 1911.com, and the Sig Forum if I ran into any problems. Ironically, I for one have not been impressed with the customer service at Dillon. FWIW, Brian Enos used to have a deal on Dillon caliber conversions,stands,powder dispensers if you bought three at a time. Not sure if he still does it.
 

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