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Deals and steals

Yes, a 140 grain. Bulk box, rounds loose, not ideal either.

Was in the 1 moa ballpark. What bugged me is all that sighting, probably 80 rounds, pretty consistently around there minus a few fliers, but never really a 3 shot group under that. Had a buddy, a better shot than I usually, two targets, nothing tighter produced.

Same conditions, my 7.62, first 3 shots I had 2 touching and it was like that for about half the 3 shot groups. Yeah that rifle is very good for no reason i can cite. Maybe with good ammo and things converge between the rifles with the 7.62 seeing a more marginal change and the 6.5 getting tight. It wasn't sloppy just expected similar results.

Ok - I'll take that advice, hold, save $160, take it apart and re-fit, probably the sensible thing to do. I believe I torqued it on the low end, I want to say 40 lbs. One thing on the M5s, haven't found a good vice block - not happy with versions that basically put all the stress on the lugs. I clamp the reciever in a vice, using a plastic shim to protect it. Feels ok but I'm very anxious to carefully torque them and get them out of the vice. Wish Aero sold a vice block for the larger recievers, for AR15 stuff those clamshell style blocks are great - very positively locked and kept true during the torqueing process.
Ok, of course that is not the way. Plastic shim is not how it’s done.

Get this one:
get this exact one, not a one that looks 'almost' like this one, as other models may not have walls that press into the upper. if it only holds upper by pins - it will brake them off.
this one goes around the upper, and you press it in vise so walls of the block press into the upper and hold it all together . Then you torque it to 80-90, not 40.

I highly recommend getting a lapping tool too and prepare receiver mating edge properly every time you move barrel in/out. a correct part # is 1082227 (AR-10).
Amazon product ASIN B0779BNQ8KView: https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Receiver-Gunsmithing-Cleaning-Maintenance/dp/B0779BNQ8K


always have upper mounted strictly vertically, apply the grit, then do 5 clockwise and 5 counter clockwise turns by hand. never use drill, on a new upper at least, all you need is to take off a very fine amount of paint and finish from the edge to make mating surface uniform.

and do not forget to grease the threads before torqueing the nut.
Amazon product ASIN B01GGQMF54View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGQMF54
 
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again, of vises - specifically those that look like this one below is the pure BS, as you will brake off those ears with pins the first time you try to torque it.
most chinese ones i think are done like this one below as well, just a chunk of aluminum with cutouts. nope, will not do.
1661946937953.png
the wheeler one is a long U shape that presses around the upper and it is how it should be.
1661947118860.png
 
I gave up on upper receiver blocks when I started using M4E1s
I much prefer upper receiver rods, yes they cost more than blocks but if you're doing multiple uppers they are nice to have
Primary has both sizes on sale
dunno why. rods are fine, sure, but it is a $109+$130 to do same job a single $33 block does just fine. and mush less useful for other work you may use a block for.
i have nothing against them if money is no object, of course, and that is what an armorers would use.
 
Patrol officers med kit from Primary arms. Good deal on a Cat tourniquet and combat gauze. I’m not sure you could buy them separately for the money. $36+ shipping

Just a note, this doesn't have combat gauze, just regular. It's a decent deal, but not anywhere as nice as if it had a hemostatic gauze.
 
Ok, of course that is not the way. Plastic shim is not how it’s done.

Get this one:
get this exact one, not a one that looks 'almost' like this one, as other models may not have walls that press into the upper. if it only holds upper by pins - it will brake them off.
this one goes around the upper, and you press it in vise so walls of the block press into the upper and hold it all together . Then you torque it to 80-90, not 40.

I highly recommend getting a lapping tool too and prepare receiver mating edge properly every time you move barrel in/out. a correct part # is 1082227 (AR-10).
Amazon product ASIN B0779BNQ8KView: https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Receiver-Gunsmithing-Cleaning-Maintenance/dp/B0779BNQ8K


always have upper mounted strictly vertically, apply the grit, then do 5 clockwise and 5 counter clockwise turns by hand. never use drill, on a new upper at least, all you need is to take off a very fine amount of paint and finish from the edge to make mating surface uniform.

and do not forget to grease the threads before torqueing the nut.
Amazon product ASIN B01GGQMF54View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGQMF54

Always has been a mystery to me how they hold AR10 uppers. Even posted on a forum once about it and obviously got some bad advice.

Yeah I never liked the vice, was just how I found others doing when I ran across the fact an M5 upper doesn't fit in my tools. It actually is pretty solid if you have just the right blocks of aluminum to match, but it's one of those things where if you don't have the vice, blocks, shims, just right and it manages to spin out, you are phucked - would destroy the upper, send the barrel flying, probably somehow wack you in the nuts in the process too.

On the torque - just checked into it, Aero says 65 lbs (and I want to say it is or was 40-65 lbs, today I found 65 lbs in a quick check) - 65 lbs is not enough? I guess the concept here is - prevent any potential movement of the barrel?

I didn't realize that wheeler design did more than use the lugs, otherwise I'd own one already, I thought all those style tools were the same (and were garbage). $55 and free shipping at Midway got me both the lapping and vice block tools - no brainer.

I have a thing for tools, own many that got used just once or twice, a collection maybe.. Kinda tempted to pickup one of those rods upon seeing them - is there only minuscule benefit compared to the blocks? Seems like if they hold both on the barrel and the upper, that'd be really really positive.

I think I'm probably going to just yank the barrel and set it back on there again using better tools, make sure it's all just right.
 
today I found 65 lbs in a quick check) - 65 lbs is not enough?
if aero says 65 - i cannot say it is not enough. but i think i do 75-80, which may be too much? you said 40 and that was low.
double check if lapping tool you got was indeed for ar10, i gave a part number. but a worst case midway does returns with no issues.

at least i can tell on my ar15 larue undoing and re- lapping/seating the barrel fixed accuracy issues i had there.
 
if aero says 65 - i cannot say it is not enough. but i think i do 75-80, which may be too much? you said 40 and that was low.
double check if lapping tool you got was indeed for ar10, i gave a part number. but a worst case midway does returns with no issues.

at least i can tell on my ar15 larue undoing and re- lapping/seating the barrel fixed accuracy issues i had there.

Honestly an upper currently is not made of gold or anything, isn't like that last covid/panic-buy where it was hard to get stuff. I'll shoot for 75 lbs, any AR receiver ought to take 80 lbs, it's not like the Aero M5 ones are more inferior than standard mil spec, should be stronger if anything - if I blow it up will know not to do that again :)

Part # is 1082227, looks right to me - it didn't show up when I originally checked midway for the PN but I found it a ways down, search doesn't quite seem to work right.

 
Honestly an upper currently is not made of gold or anything, isn't like that last covid/panic-buy where it was hard to get stuff. I'll shoot for 75 lbs, any AR receiver ought to take 80 lbs, it's not like the Aero M5 ones are more inferior than standard mil spec, should be stronger if anything - if I blow it up will know not to do that again :)

Part # is 1082227, looks right to me - it didn't show up when I originally checked midway for the PN but I found it a ways down, search doesn't quite seem to work right.

yeah, great, it is a correct one. just remember to never do it like picture shows :) - the receiver has to be vertical and tool will be dropped into it from above.

1661971456580.png
 
Vortex Strike Eagle 4-24x50 with EBR-4 MOA on closeout sale at EuroOptic for $300. This is a pretty good scope at its $500 list price and a very good one at $300.


Here's a review where the author does an accuracy and tracking test.

 
Vortex Strike Eagle 4-24x50 with EBR-4 MOA on closeout sale at EuroOptic for $300. This is a pretty good scope at its $500 list price and a very good one at $300.


Here's a review where the author does an accuracy and tracking test.


still i do not think it beats a 25% discounted arken ep5. did you get yours?
 
still i do not think it beats a 25% discounted arken ep5. did you get yours?
Yup, I have it and the Strike Eagle. Major difference is the EP5 is FFP and the Strike Eagle is SFP. Other than the EP5 exhibiting some bloom with the illuminated reticle at higher magnification and reticle illumination levels (not really too noticeable except in low light conditions), they are really very close. I would say the eye box on the Vortex is a bit tighter than the EP5, but not enough to make a difference to me. If you prefer SFP, the Strike Eagle is the one to go with. If you want FFP, you need to get the EP5. If you don't care, I'd go with the Strike Eagle. It's cheaper and has just as good glass to my eyes and you can't beat the Vortex warranty. One other thing you might want to consider is that, while both scopes are manufactured in China, the EP5 uses Japanese glass.
 
again, of vises - specifically those that look like this one below is the pure BS, as you will brake off those ears with pins the first time you try to torque it.
most chinese ones i think are done like this one below as well, just a chunk of aluminum with cutouts. nope, will not do.
View attachment 656507
the wheeler one is a long U shape that presses around the upper and it is how it should be.
View attachment 656509
I guess it's a good thing my wrench didn't fit the .308 barrel. I was using one of those blocks! Torquing to 45 lbs or so for th AR-15 felt like a good amount of force. I can imagine th extra torque for an AR-10 breaking something.
 
Primary Arms Labor Day sale. This caught my eye . $170 off

Anybody have one of these? Any good? Is that front "muzzle device" MA legal, and pinned (also MA legal)?
 
Somehow I managed to get two pairs of darn tough socks for myself and a pair of smart wool for my wife. Oops. Guess we'll do a blind test. And for deals and steals on shoes I've been having good luck on eBay with review pairs that were never really worn outside.
 
Anybody have one of these? Any good? Is that front "muzzle device" MA legal, and pinned (also MA legal)?
I have the 18 inch version of this with the rifle length gas system. Got it back in November of 2019 for $160, running it with a Toolcraft BCG. I can guarantee the the BMD Brake is a brake and can't possible be confused with a flash hider, given its flash signature. I've been pretty happy with it. It is pretty consistent in delivering sub 2 MOA groups. I was able to achieve some 1 MOA groups with Berger Match Grade 223 73g HPBT.
 
RCBS Chargemaster Supreme, on sale for $379, plus brownells has a $45 off 300+. bringing it down to $334.00 Shipping is $8 though.


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