Dakota Gun Safe

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In preparation for my license, I've begun assembly of the Dakota Gun Safe I purchased at the Marlboro gun show from Eastern Security Safe.

Having shopped a bit through the various levels of offerings for gun cabinets and safes, I settled on the Dakota for a number of reasons including geometry, design features, capacity, and cost. I settled on the Dakota because in the cost ballpark, more $ did not equal more capacity or necessarily any real increase in security to a determined thief, and less $ almost always meant both a compromise in capacity, lock, and theft resistance, and always meant a compromise in at least two of those qualities. Note: my home has fire sprinklers, so fire resistance is not a priority.

One key issue is the room this is going into is kinda small, and the Dakota is rather deep for its size and cost. Most others I found that were narrower were much smaller in capacity or were in much higher price ranges. Everything else I could find in shopping trips through Dicks and Eastern's display at the gun show that was smaller was too heavy a compromise on capacity and security, and everything else that was in the same size class was much heavier while not actually necessarily more secure.

With the help of a buddy with a pickup, I picked up the Dakota gun safe kit at Eastern on Saturday. Great place. Lots of variety in the showroom. Browsing through the much larger selection in the showroom reaffirmed that any alternatives would have required a compromise in capacity, security, or cost.

The Dakota comes in four freakin heavy boxes. I ride a desk for a living so heaving around three 110lb boxes and their 190lb big brother is not a one weakling job. One of the boxes is labeled open first. It has the instructional DVD in it. The video on the DVD (burned media) is on youtube. Still with the help of my friend we were able to get it out of his pickup and onto a palette in my garage with no problem.

Opening the boxes by myself I found a very nicely packed set of panels. The various interior and exterior panels are packaged together, interior nested within exterior, in packing wrap and buffered with wood spacers to keep the boxes square. Very nice packaging. Outside of their boxes, the panels are quite manageable given that you can grip them. Wear work gloves. While not as sharp as say the inside of a cheap computer, the steel is still a flat edge here and there and with this much weight, a slip in one's grip could hurt.

Because I'm assembling the safe in place and it's in a corner, I'm having to deviate from the instructions a little, but I have the back, two sides, and bottom in place and loosely bolted together. Now I need to find a buddy who can come over and help me haul the 190lb door in from the garage and hold it upright with the door open while I climb inside and set the bolts.

Update tomorrow hopefully.

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I appear to have broken the S&G dial lock

When I ordered my Dakota from Eastern and learned that swapping in an S&G dial lock was an option, I jumped at the chance.

Well now that I've assembled the safe (which includes unlocking the door and opening it to bolt it together from the inside) and closed it, I can't unlock it again. [angry]

Been trying the combination for a while. Even watched a generic youtube video again to make sure I'm turning it right. [crying]
 
When I ordered my Dakota from Eastern and learned that swapping in an S&G dial lock was an option, I jumped at the chance.

Well now that I've assembled the safe (which includes unlocking the door and opening it to bolt it together from the inside) and closed it, I can't unlock it again. [angry]

Been trying the combination for a while. Even watched a generic youtube video again to make sure I'm turning it right. [crying]

Try adding or subtracting 2 from the middle number. It's a common problem.
 
The last time I checked Eastern Security had an ITL auto dialer in their toolkit. I don't know if they will loan it; rent it; or insist they come out to set it up. This beastie can go through all possible combinations in about 30 hours. If you can find someone who has the Mas-Hamilton Soft Drill (unlikely) - a hardware/software combo, and it's a Group II rather than Group I (uncommon) or Group IIm, you can have the combination analyzed and open in about 15 minutes. This is all assuming, of course, no failure of the lock and a third digit outside the forbidden zone.
 
If it's within warrantee, Roger can probably help either directly or by getting the manufacturer involved. Keep in mind, Roger sells safes (mainly the low end of the market; jewelery stores go to an entirely different sort of safe vendor), but I don't think he is a "Safe Technician", and he's probably never opened a box using graph paper in his life. If you find youself in deep kimchee, ask if the safe man you are dealing with is a member of SAVTA.
 
Solved! Lock is fine! [smile]

The lock is fine. The drywall is a little warped on the ends and is pushing on the lock bars. Applying counter pressure on the lock handles to push it to lock while dialing the combination lets the lock work and engage.

I can probably solve this by just wedging something in to apply pressure back against the drywall where it's bowing out a bit. $3 at Lowes and I'll be set.
 
The lock is fine. The drywall is a little warped on the ends and is pushing on the lock bars. Applying counter pressure on the lock handles to push it to lock while dialing the combination lets the lock work and engage.
What you are encountering is referred to as "bolt side pressure". It will put additional stress on the lock if you turn the dial to open it when such pressure is being applied. This is more dangerous in electronic locks, since this can cause the worm drive gear that pulls the deadbolt to strip (a most unpleasant situation).
 
What you are encountering is referred to as "bolt side pressure". It will put additional stress on the lock if you turn the dial to open it when such pressure is being applied. This is more dangerous in electronic locks, since this can cause the worm drive gear that pulls the deadbolt to strip (a most unpleasant situation).

Should I just take a hammer or drill and punch a dent or drill a hole in the drywall where the bolts go?
 
Should I just take a hammer or drill and punch a dent or drill a hole in the drywall where the bolts go?
When I was referring to "bolt side pressure", I was talking about the portion of the lock case that retracts allowing the mechanism in the safe to retract the other types of bolts. You can dent the drywall if you wish, or just turn the safe handle to relieve the bolt pressure when you are in the last 20 degrees or so of rotation when dialing the final number of the combination (starting at the part when you feel the cam engage the wheel and the dial starts to engage the internal mechanism). Chances are that doing this for a while will develop the necessary dents without making a mess of interior.
 
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Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman!

[horse] So I took off the interior door drywall panel to look at the inside of the door.

1) the beam holding all the side bolts that are pushing against the drywall on the side panel isn't straight - that's what's making some of the bolts extend out farther than others. For the ones where the beam is too far away from the edge of the door, there are spacer washers to make those bolts stick out farther. Either way, I don't have enough room to make the problem bolts stick in farther - they don't have the spacers.

2) The side panel is definitely all the way in. No give.

3) I think part of the issue is that I had Eastern install a dial lock - it looks like they had to cut part of the lock bars to fit the dial lock. In looking at the welds it's clear that there was material cut away to make room for the lock bolt on the lock.

I'm wondering how long it would take me with a dremel to cut away maybe another 2mm of steel there.

JohnMac4u - if you're reading this, don't let this discourage you. This is still a great safe.
 
I've had my Dakota safe for nearly two years now.

Like I said I've got a Dakota safe. It's great, and when I move the the takedown feature will be needed. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE S&G DIAL (it's old school but it will last forever).
smitty
 
Anyone know how to 1) change the combination (I have the dial lock, not the electronic one) 2) operate the little latch on the bottom of the door so you can open it more than 90 degrees? I emailed the company but haven't heard anything back yet.
 
I can't help you with the dial because I have the electronic keypad. As far as the latch goes you simply pull up the end located inside the safe and then swing it to the side. Make sure that the door isn't open all the way or you won't have enough slack to move the latch.
 
I can't help you with the dial because I have the electronic keypad. As far as the latch goes you simply pull up the end located inside the safe and then swing it to the side. Make sure that the door isn't open all the way or you won't have enough slack to move the latch.

I've tried lifting up the latch but it doesn't budge. Do you know if they ship them tightened down or something?
 
The latch is supposed to be quite loose. Is the bolt holding it screwed in all the way?

I took the interior door panel off because I wasn't getting anywhere unscrewing the bolt. It was definitely screwed in all the way. If I really loosen it up then I can get the latch up over the lip.

Update:
If I loosen up the bolt then I can't close the door. I think I either have the wrong bolt or the wrong latch. I'll have to try getting in touch with the manufacturer again.
 
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I called Dakota and asked about the latch. They advised that I just remove the latch entirely if I want it to open more than 90 degrees. I asked if there had been a design change but he said what you see in the video about the safe isn't really an accurate portrayal of how it's supposed to work.

I'm fine with removing the latch, I just find it curious that others' safes work and the video shows it working, but it doesn't work on mine. Oh well.
 
Anyone know how to 1) change the combination
Assuming it's a standard S&G Group II or IIm,

1. Obtain change key for your lock. Eastern got one with the dial lock, but they keep it unless you ask to "keep you out of trouble" and have the "service of them keeping the combination on file in a secure manner". If you get the key from Eastern, they will NOT service a lockout under warranty as they will assume you screwed up the combo. If you borrow mine, nobody has to know you did it :)

2. Stop drinking 24 hours before you change the combo.

3. Dial the combination to the change mark (the extra notch to the left of the top index).

4. Slide the change key into the little hole on the back. If you have done #3 correctly, it will go in without resistance. Turn 90 degrees (I forgot which way - it only goes one way, and is not hard - do NOT force it)

5. Dial new combination using the change index. Back the dial a few digits off the final number.

6. Turn change key back to it's original location and. remove. Test the new combination at least 5 times. Write it down, or tattoo it on the sole of your foot - something where you will not lose it but there is no risk of someone else finding it. Best bet is to leave a written copy in your safe deposit box (also convenient if you suffer dementia and remember where you safe deposit box is, but forget the combo).

7. Tell no one the combination. Two people can keep a secret if one of them is dead.

Other points:

- The final number should not be in the "forbidden zone". This is generally 0-20, but I'd suggest avoid using 90-20 for the final number. The forbidden zone is needed to allow the cam to engage and open the lock on the final number.

- Do NOT lock the safe unless you are CERTAIN everything went well.

- NEVER insert the combination change key in the lock when the back case of the lock is removed.
 
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I got the combo successfully changed. Thanks for the info
Did you have the foresight to demand the combo change key as part of the deal, buy one separately, or has Eastern Security changed their practice of bogarting these?
 
Did you have the foresight to demand the combo change key as part of the deal, buy one separately, or has Eastern Security changed their practice of bogarting these?

I didn't get it from eastern, I actually ordered it off eBay (they had them in stock). It shipped direct from Dakota, and Dakota didn't steal the key [wink]
 
What you are encountering is referred to as "bolt side pressure". It will put additional stress on the lock if you turn the dial to open it when such pressure is being applied. This is more dangerous in electronic locks, since this can cause the worm drive gear that pulls the deadbolt to strip (a most unpleasant situation).

I think my early attempts to open the lock with slight bolt side pressure damaged the lock. Over the last year (second year of ownership) I've noticed that I've had to rattle the dial back and forth from 10 to 0 to get the cam to engage.

Since I also never really liked the dial (gold with black markings) that I got on the dial lock I had Eastern installed, I hit up ebay, bought a new lock kit (with change key) with a better color dial (black with white markings). Installed. Not a single hitch. Set my combination right on the first attempt and it's got a tighter tolerance than the original lock and the cam engages first try every try.
 
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