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Center hold vs. 6 o'clock

I've read two descriptions of 6 oclock. One seems more like center hold to me so I think they were wrong. I've always just split my target with the front post. Yes some guns I've had to maybe cover a little more or less maybe. But I've never put my sight at the bottom of the target or anything. Granted I don't shoot matches or specialized target pistols.

I went back on Springfields webpage for the manual of their 1911s. It mentions center hold for 25 yards but then makes a confusing statement a out maybe 6oclock...why would you aim lower for longer range?

Sights are likely dialed in for say seven, ten yards. The bullet would hit POA at close range but would hit high at 25 or 30. Similar to how if you zero a rifle for dead on at 25, it'll hit high at 100 but dead on at 300. Edit: and if the sights are zeroed for 25, the bullets will hit high after that.

This is a ballistic chart for American Eagle 115gr 9x19:

1592234686445.png
 
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Sights are likely dialed in for say seven, ten yards. The bullet would hit POA at close range but would hit high at 25 or 30. Similar to how if you zero a rifle for dead on at 25, it'll hit high at 100 but dead on at 300. Edit: and if the sights are zeroed for 25, the bullets will hit high after that.

This is a ballistic chart for American Eagle 115gr 9x19:

View attachment 365492
Then thats where Point Blank Range comes in.
especially with fixed sights or when you cant reasonably adjust your sights in a timely fashion.
Point blank range is when you zero your firearm amd rifle to be able to hit a target with out adjusting your sights or hold on your target.
Example
Lets say you want to hit a 6" target area from X yd to Y yd with out any sight adjustment or changing your hold.
We will use a center hold for this.
So now you need to find the long range zero and the close range zero that will give you that trajectory that if you aim in the center the bullet path does not go above or below the line of sight more than 3"
The larger the target the more wiggle room you have. The smaller the target the less.
For example if you zero your 22lr 40gn 1050 or Standard Velocity at 20 yards if you hold center on a 6" target the trajectory will allow hits out to 8 0 yards but they will be hitting the lower edge of your target.
Now this is only as good as you can hold and see.
If your shooting 2" + groups at 25 yards your going to have more misses as you go out in distance. This is all rough and only exact on paper but will get you close.
Now lets say you shoot your 45 acp 230 grain 1911 to 3" groups at 25 yards if your sights are zeroed for 5-7 yards our group center is going to be about 2" high of point of aim at 25 and 2.5"+ high of point of aim at 50 then its goingto drop off 3" below point of aim at 75/80 yards. Then really drop of @ 100 yds to about 10" below line of sight or point of aim.
So lets say for argument your 3"group @25 yds opens up to 9" @75yds. Your point blank range target is now a lot bigger. Your group size is now 4.5" radius so a 1 2" target is more realistic . Then that only matters if your keeping your group centered. Lots of fun.
But if you your gun and ammo hold perfect and you can put shots through the same hole over and over 230 gn acp 800fps or so zeroed at 5 yds should get a hit on a 6" target at 80yds but on the very lowest edge. Now windage is a completely different issue.

You can also take sometime to learn how to estimate yardage using your front sight and have a indicator to favor a higher or lower hold.

In the end its all about end use.
Handgun for defensive purpose Im going to gander IF i ever need to use it will be with inside 15 yards so its going to be the center of the largest section I can get a bead on.
 
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Then thats where Point Blank Range comes in.
especially with fixed sights or when you cant reasonably adjust your sights in a timely fashion.
Point blank range is when you zero your firearm amd rifle to be able to hit a target with out adjusting your sights or hold on your target.
Example
Lets say you want to hit a 6" target area from X yd to Y yd with out any sight adjustment or changing your hold.
We will use a center hold for this.
So now you need to find the long range zero and the close range zero that will give you that trajectory that if you aim in the center the bullet path does not go above or below the line of sight more than 3"
The larger the target the more wiggle room you have. The smaller the target the less.
For example if you zero your 22lr 40gn 1050 or Standard Velocity at 20 yards if you hold center on a 6" target the trajectory will allow hits out to 8 0 yards but they will be hitting the lower edge of your target.
Now this is only as good as you can hold and see.
If your shooting 2" + groups at 25 yards your going to have more misses as you go out in distance.

Exactly.
 
Most of what I,know comes from my dad and his friends. It was Point Blank Deer Range.
Basically any rifle good enough for deer and a reasonably accurate rifle and shooter zeroed 1.5" or so high at 1 00 yards if you put the sights/cross hairs in the center of the vital zone you have a good chance of a good hit from 25-250ish yards.
 
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