Case cleaning advice

[dp2983]

How clean is clean enough? Is it possible to go overboard? Do I need to worry about tarnishing and such during storage?

So, I deprimed and hand washed some 9mm range pickups with Dawn, vinegar, and shaking the crap out of it, then rinsing. It came out pretty clean, but the primer pockets were grungy. I then did dilute Simple Green in a quart bag, submerged in my small ultrasonic machine. That worked very well. Things are nice and clean now.

I am wondering, though, if I would need or want to expand my operation to a wet tumbler with SS pins for when I get into rifle calibers (or larger amounts of pistol brass).

What about dry tumbling only prior to reloading? What about dry tumbling with a squirt of polish to finish things off after reloading?

Is this mostly about having the shiniest brass, or is this a vital operation?

 

[Rick O'Shea]

I've known dirty brass to hit the 10 ring,.. Shiny brass contests are fun to watch.

 

[allen-1]

That's an awful lot of effort for 9mm.
I pick up range brass, tumble it with corn cob, strain it, lube it and load it.

If I were doing rifle, I'd probably swage the primer pocket, but that's it.

Store the loaded ammo with dessicant if you're worried about tarnish.

 

[Fixxah]

Lube pistol? No thanks.

 

[Romokid]

That's an awful lot of effort for 9mm.
I pick up range brass, tumble it with corn cob, strain it, lube it and load it.

If I were doing rifle, I'd probably swage the primer pocket, but that's it.

Store the loaded ammo with dessicant if you're worried about tarnish.

I do the same minus the lube for pistol. If you want you can always add a little polish to the media and then tumble them loaded to shine them up but as was mentioned, dirty rounds hit the 10 ring.

 

[DW357]

How clean is clean enough? Is it possible to go overboard? Do I need to worry about tarnishing and such during storage?

So, I deprimed and hand washed some 9mm range pickups with Dawn, vinegar, and shaking the crap out of it, then rinsing. It came out pretty clean, but the primer pockets were grungy. I then did dilute Simple Green in a quart bag, submerged in my small ultrasonic machine. That worked very well. Things are nice and clean now.

I am wondering, though, if I would need or want to expand my operation to a wet tumbler with SS pins for when I get into rifle calibers (or larger amounts of pistol brass).

What about dry tumbling only prior to reloading? What about dry tumbling with a squirt of polish to finish things off after reloading?

Is this mostly about having the shiniest brass, or is this a vital operation?

You're overthinking this IMO - I overanalyze things too lol.

You just need the brass clean enough so it doesn't damage your dies. The primer pockets on pistol brass do not need to be spotless. I've literally NEVER cleaned primer pockets on pistol brass and I've reloaded tens upon tens of thousands of rounds. I dry tumble with corn cob or walnut media along with some case polish before reloading, and that's it. I do nothing after the reloading the rounds.

Wet tumbling isn't for me as I think it's too much work - mainly the drying process. Yes you can spend more money and buy a dehydrator to dry the brass but that's a waste of money IMO.

I will say it "looks" nice to have shiny brass but it isn't necessary. Couple hours in the vibratory tumbler with walnut/corn media + case polish and they come out pretty damn shiny.

I'd recommend this kit (SKU 95454) for $124 shipped but it's sold out. I've recommended this kit to a few others. Comes with everything you need - tumbler, media, media separator, and case polish. I've got 2 of them that I've been using since 2012-13.

 

[DW357]

Lube pistol? No thanks.

When you're reloading thousands of rounds of 9mm, it gets annoying without using lube. The resistance from resizing 9mm brass gets old when you're cranking out thousands. I just finished loading almost 4k rounds of 9mm last week and I give the brass a light spritz of hornady gun cleaner/lube and WOW what a difference. Makes reloading that much more enjoyable.

It just leaves a VERY light dry film so no need to clean the rounds afterwards.

But other pistol rounds I load - 357 and 44 magnum, I do not lube as there's not much resistance when resizing that brass.

 

[allen-1]

Lube pistol? No thanks.

I've got a can of Lyman Quick Shot. I dump a couple of handfuls of the brass into a cardboard box, tip them so they're laying on their sides, quick spritz, shake the box and toss them into the casefeeder.

I'm using Dillon carbide dies, and I started using the case lube when I started loading .357Sig. Makes the process significantly easier, press runs much more smoothly. So I lube all the brass, it's easy, it's cheap.

 

[Broc]

When you're reloading thousands of rounds of 9mm, it gets annoying without using lube. The resistance from resizing 9mm brass gets old when you're cranking out thousands. I just finished loading almost 4k rounds of 9mm last week and I give the brass a light spritz of hornady gun cleaner/lube and WOW what a difference. Makes reloading that much more enjoyable.

It just leaves a VERY light dry film so no need to clean the rounds afterwards.

But other pistol rounds I load - 357 and 44 magnum, I do not lube as there's not much resistance when resizing that brass.

Resistance when sizing 9mm?
Interesting.

OP ... I get lazy and sometimes don't clean the brass between reloading, it is fine.

I lowered my wet tumbling to 20 minutes, just to remove powder leftover.

As far as the brass being tarnished, does not make a difference, I used to have 45/70 brass that looked like it came out of a WW1 trench. No issues.

Also, I wouldn't use vinegar or anything acidic on brass. No need for it to shine.

 

[TrashcanDan]

How clean is clean enough?

Clean enough is clean enough

Is it possible to go overboard?

Yes

Do I need to worry about tarnishing and such during storage?

Nope

So, I deprimed and hand washed some 9mm range pickups with Dawn, vinegar, and shaking the crap out of it, then rinsing. It came out pretty clean, but the primer pockets were grungy. I then did dilute Simple Green in a quart bag, submerged in my small ultrasonic machine. That worked very well. Things are nice and clean now.

Thats a bit much for 9 or any handgun cartridge

I am wondering, though, if I would need or want to expand my operation to a wet tumbler with SS pins for when I get into rifle calibers (or larger amounts of pistol brass).

Nope

What about dry tumbling only prior to reloading? What about dry tumbling with a squirt of polish to finish things off after reloading?

Thats the route I go, except not with loaded ammo.
1 dirty shaker, 1 clean shaker. Everything goes through the dirty, gets de-capped, then through the clean one.
I'll have 2 goin at once. I think it'll hold 300 or so 38 spl? Maybe 400 .45 acp?

Is this mostly about having the shiniest brass, or is this a vital operation?

Its about o.c.d..
Or some kind of bookface sales pitch because retard out there sellin brass was trying to out-retard the next guy.
It was a tard fest. Probably still is. The ads used to read something like............

" I have for sale, only the finest once fired range brass, that was carefully hand selected, gauged with my super secret gauge, and cleaned using only the finest detergents made from a near extinct plant extract found in the caves of the amazon. Blessed by Shamans, this oil and detergent combo gently massages the brass in an ULTA-ultra-sonic cleaner designed by N.A.S.A. I even go the extra step and play classical music while the brass bathes, while wearing overalls and rubbing tea-tree oil on my always erect nipples. Asking $75 per 100. P.M. for info (and a good time)"

Or at least thats how I remember it.
Anyways. Don't overthink it.

 

[DW357]

Resistance when sizing 9mm?
Interesting.

OP ... I get lazy and sometimes don't clean the brass between reloading, it is fine.

I lowered my wet tumbling to 20 minutes, just to remove powder leftover.

As far as the brass being tarnished, does not make a difference, I used to have 45/70 brass that looked like it came out of a WW1 trench. No issues.

Also, I wouldn't use vinegar or anything acidic on brass. No need for it to shine.

Ya since it’s a tapered case they’re significantly harder to resize than straight wall cases like 357 or 44 mag - those slide in and out with ease.

 

[Mike 53]

I've got a can of Lyman Quick Shot. I dump a couple of handfuls of the brass into a cardboard box, tip them so they're laying on their sides, quick spritz, shake the box and toss them into the casefeeder.

I'm using Dillon carbide dies, and I started using the case lube when I started loading .357Sig. Makes the process significantly easier, press runs much more smoothly. So I lube all the brass, it's easy, it's cheap.

Allen, do you tumble the lube off afterwards? I have never lubed pistol brass, but might be worth it if it doesn't add an extra step...

 

[Fixxah]

Resistance when sizing 9mm?
Interesting.

OP ... I get lazy and sometimes don't clean the brass between reloading, it is fine.

I lowered my wet tumbling to 20 minutes, just to remove powder leftover.

As far as the brass being tarnished, does not make a difference, I used to have 45/70 brass that looked like it came out of a WW1 trench. No issues.

Also, I wouldn't use vinegar or anything acidic on brass. No need for it to shine.

Not to mention it destroys the brass.

 

[Rick O'Shea]

I only dry tumble just enough to remove the sharpie marks on the case heads,.. You boys need to spend the time bending over yourself if you want your brass back,..

 

[meh]

Disclaimer: nothing I say pertains to reloading for precision rifle.

I've got a little OCD myself, but if you want, you can reload dirty handgun brass just fine if all it's got is powder residue from the last firing. AFAIK, that won't even scratch your dies. If the brass picked up dirt and or sand from being on the ground, then you want to get rid of that because that could scratch your dies.

I don't know if powder residue from the last shooting could absorb and hold moisture, but I'm thinking dirt might. Anyway, point is, it isn't the carbon deposits from the last firing that matter, let alone tarnish, and too many reloaders with progressive presses have loaded too many thousands of rounds without even seeing the primer pocket in between decapping and resizing to think that cleaning primer pockets of handgun rounds is important.

But having said all that, producing shiny, perfect looking ammo is a pleasure in itself. Do it for that reason, if you want.

 

[nstassel]

I'm a wet tumbler. I use the big Franklin Arsenal machine. It does a great job with pistol brass. Holds about 500 .45 case.

 

[Broc]

I don't know if powder residue from the last shooting could absorb and hold moisture

If it did, all our guns would be rusted. That is why BP needs to be cleaned ASAP.

 

[allen-1]

Allen, do you tumble the lube off afterwards? I have never lubed pistol brass, but might be worth it if it doesn't add an extra step...

Nope.

I lube the cases to make my life easier, not to add more work.

 

[mac1911]

How clean is clean enough? Is it possible to go overboard? Do I need to worry about tarnishing and such during storage?

So, I deprimed and hand washed some 9mm range pickups with Dawn, vinegar, and shaking the crap out of it, then rinsing. It came out pretty clean, but the primer pockets were grungy. I then did dilute Simple Green in a quart bag, submerged in my small ultrasonic machine. That worked very well. Things are nice and clean now.

I am wondering, though, if I would need or want to expand my operation to a wet tumbler with SS pins for when I get into rifle calibers (or larger amounts of pistol brass).

What about dry tumbling only prior to reloading? What about dry tumbling with a squirt of polish to finish things off after reloading?

Is this mostly about having the shiniest brass, or is this a vital operation?

Im sure its been said
Bottom line
Clean brass to your level of comfort.
I will often just wipe the brass with a paper towel while inspecting it
Brass that hits the dirt will get a run through the tumbler.
Ammo manufactures have learned consumers love shiny things….ohh ahh

I have also learned there is a shit ton of OCD NESers.

I run iirc Lizard Liter - walnut its cheap at pet stores and if you ask employees for damaged bags you might luck out and get them for free or $1 like I did.

I use NuFinish and odorless mineral spirits
I used the cap of Nufinish as a measuring cup. Cap full of each - I have the bigger lyman.
I let the mix run for about 1/2 hour and start tumbling. I will run a batch of media for a good long while. Refreshing the NuFinish mix every 2k cases or so or if its been sitting a long time

I tumble for about 25 min for most brass
Dont care what it looks like.
If I know the brass is going to sit for a while I might let it polish up more.

Been running my tumbler all week cleaning up the dump of a reloading room it has become

I generally load in small lots of 100 or so
So I usually just wear a shitty T shirt and wipe the lube off with it as I box them up.

Last bulk run of 223 3500 rounds I did give them a quick tumble
The 30 carbine 1800 rounds just got put in the boxes. I use lanolin so I figure cant really hurt?
I have seen no lasting problems with leaving lube on , unless its applied really heavy.
I have one of those RCBS lube dies and that leaves a slathering of lube…. Maybe good for automated production ? That meeds to be removed

 

[allen-1]

After running a load of laundry I save the used dryer sheets. I put three of them into my tumbler with the corncob and throw them away afterwards. I toss in a capful of polish every three or four runs and change the corncob when I think it's really dirty. The dryer sheets help the corncob last longer.

 

[mac1911]

After running a load of laundry I save the used dryer sheets. I put three of them into my tumbler with the corncob and throw them away afterwards. I toss in a capful of polish every three or four runs and change the corncob when I think it's really dirty. The dryer sheets help the corncob last longer.

I have grown fond of using fresh dryer sheets. Just smells better.

 

[Romokid]

I too use the used dryer sheets. I couldn’t believe how much they can pick up in the media.

 

[mac1911]

I too use the used dryer sheets. I couldn’t believe how much they can pick up in the media.

I have noticed since using new sheets the walnut “dust” does not stick to the cases

 

[allen-1]

I have noticed since using new sheets the walnut “dust” does not stick to the cases

hmmmm, gonna try that.

 

[Romokid]

I have noticed since using new sheets the walnut “dust” does not stick to the cases

Yup that was another benefit that I didn't even realize, just like how they reduce static cling in the dryer with clothes they do the same with the walnut dust and pick up a lot of that grime.

 

[Mountain]

How clean is clean enough? Is it possible to go overboard? Do I need to worry about tarnishing and such during storage?

So, I deprimed and hand washed some 9mm range pickups with Dawn, vinegar, and shaking the crap out of it, then rinsing. It came out pretty clean, but the primer pockets were grungy. I then did dilute Simple Green in a quart bag, submerged in my small ultrasonic machine. That worked very well. Things are nice and clean now.

I am wondering, though, if I would need or want to expand my operation to a wet tumbler with SS pins for when I get into rifle calibers (or larger amounts of pistol brass).

What about dry tumbling only prior to reloading? What about dry tumbling with a squirt of polish to finish things off after reloading?

Is this mostly about having the shiniest brass, or is this a vital operation?

Great question. Even if asked before, it's a good topic to refresh.

Lots of good advice already. Basically you don't have to overdo it. Also primer pockets can be a bit grungy with no ill effect. I only brush out primer pockets and make the holes uniform for benchrest or long distance ammo. Most of the time I don't even bother for 600 yard ammo. I do tend to let the cases run a long time in the tumbler so that they look very shiny. Makes easy to find them in a match and it's hands off so why not.

 

[NavelOfficer]

I keep telling you guys that too shiny brass will give your position away ...

...besides, it's too much fun searching for tarnished brass among the wood chips!

 

[EddieCoyle]

Is it possible to go overboard?

Yes.

 

[allen-1]

I keep telling you guys that too shiny brass will give your position away ...

...besides, it's too much fun searching for tarnished brass among the wood chips!

It's not the shiny brass, it's the sun flashing off that chromed barrel and bald head...

 

[Amputee Marksman]

When you're reloading thousands of rounds of 9mm, it gets annoying without using lube. The resistance from resizing 9mm brass gets old when you're cranking out thousands. I just finished loading almost 4k rounds of 9mm last week and I give the brass a light spritz of hornady gun cleaner/lube and WOW what a difference. Makes reloading that much more enjoyable.

This procedure is for 9mm, 45 and 38spl. I use carbide dies so I never lube the cases.

Tumble my brass enough to take off most of the dirt etc.
Resize and deprime them.
Clean them again using whatever cleaning solutions I got on sale. Usually the Iosso solution. This is done primarily to clean the primer pocket.
If I want them to look all nice I can send them through the tumbler again with some case polish. I use the Cabelas Corn Cob media with included polish.
Then I send them through the 650 where they get resized again and loaded.
My percentage of cases failing at case gauge check is basically 0 when they are resized twice.

I have 2 tumblers. One is a Lyman Turbo Tumbler that I bought new back in the 80s that keeps on working. The second is a MidwayUSA tumbler that was included with a bunch of reloading stuff I bought second hand. For cleaning I throw the brass in plastic buckets, let them soak a while, shake the crap out of them. Repeat this a few times and done.

Of course if I need some ammo fast then I tumble to take off the dirt, toss them in the 650 and crank them out.