Shake in a covered container for 15-20 seconds then pop the cover and shake as normal.Gotcha, thanks.
Well of course looks are important.
Gets it into the grooves better
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Shake in a covered container for 15-20 seconds then pop the cover and shake as normal.Gotcha, thanks.
Well of course looks are important.
For pistol no issues going top end. The issue comes with the fast twists in rifles.It's probably already been covered but how fast are you guys pushing cast loads? I know the Hi Tek coating helps but can you push close to FMJ loads or do you have to load lighter?
I was looking at casting for .308/.300WM as that and the HEAVY .44 MAG are my biggest spenders. Keep it below 1800fps then? I was looking up subsonic .308s the other day, I'll have to revisit that.For pistol no issues going top end. The issue comes with the fast twists in rifles.
I can push a 357 top speeds out of my 16.5 carbine with 1:16 twist.
When you get up over 1800 with a 1:10 twist things start to get ugly.
Yes. Either that or go for paper patching. Basically wrapping a paper jacket. Then you can push the speeds pretty damn fast. I have only played with this in 45/70 and my shoulder gives out before I reach any crazy speeds. I do have a goal to work on .308 paper patch this year though.I was looking at casting for .308/.300WM as that and the HEAVY .44 MAG are my biggest spenders. Keep it below 1800fps then? I was looking up subsonic .308s the other day, I'll have to revisit that.
I was looking at casting for .308/.300WM as that and the HEAVY .44 MAG are my biggest spenders. Keep it below 1800fps then? I was looking up subsonic .308s the other day, I'll have to revisit that.
Larry Gibson’s answers can be taken as law. Dude is smart and has done some serious work and testing. He’s legit.Found some good info here. I love the rifle and while I can load FMJ for it, if I could cast for it that would be great
300 Win Mag
Ok so i waited to use my noob question after i been here for a while. Hand guns i get and do but..... Is it possible to mold and shoot 300 win mag? I know there is leading involved due to velocity. And if its is possible I assume gas checks are needed. Let me know and try not to bash me...castboolits.gunloads.com
As mentioned larry gibson has really touched on this subject.It's probably already been covered but how fast are you guys pushing cast loads? I know the Hi Tek coating helps but can you push close to FMJ loads or do you have to load lighter?
That’s awesome!!8mm range report.... minute of pineapple.. yes this was a cast bullet.View attachment 378835View attachment 378836
16-20 grains 2400 powderI'd be curious if there's a cast solution for 300WM other than using something like TrailBoss for a powder.
16-20 grains 2400 powder
Im sure H4895 as per hodgdons instructions can be reduced enough for a cast bullet starting load.I'd be curious if there's a cast solution for 300WM other than using something like TrailBoss for a powder.
is there any added information in the lyman thats mentions their test platform ?All my .30 Cal rifles are 1:10 twist barrels. The moron in me forgot I have the Lyman 49th packed away in a box. I dug it out and found some load data for cast bullets.
View attachment 378823
no. CE Harris recommended it specifically because it did not require filler or tilting before shooting.Does that load require filler?
Mercury. Plug the bore on both ends and slosh the mercury back and forth in there.So I’ve been cleaning up the M48 after my last round of cast and I can’t get the lead out. I’ve scrubbed it with chore boy for days. Any other ideas? I’ve started to think it may have had some lead from the previous owner. I need to pick up a bore camView attachment 380920
I don’t know. I have some from some old thermostats. They had mercury switches in them.Where is the best place to get mercury?
growing up my dad had a decent amount in a jar and once in a while we would run some through the bore of lead slingers. Does work well.Mercury. Plug the bore on both ends and slosh the mercury back and forth in there.
Pour out the mercury and all of the lead comes with it. Done!
thats not that bad... Problem is your bore is well worn and pitted. Everytime you deep clean it you open some of those pits that want to collect fouling.So I’ve been cleaning up the M48 after my last round of cast and I can’t get the lead out. I’ve scrubbed it with chore boy for days. Any other ideas? I’ve started to think it may have had some lead from the previous owner. I need to pick up a bore camView attachment 380920
Found this on youtube, pretty interesting info on how re-heating for powdercoating or hi-tek can de-temper/ de-harden the lead
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fbjs-lErL0
Found this on youtube, pretty interesting info on how re-heating for powdercoating or hi-tek can de-temper/ de-harden the lead
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fbjs-lErL0
Cool video!
Yep. It will drop the hardness to the same as air cooled cast bullets.
If you want hardness you need to water quench after the baking process and they harden up nice! I do that with my 9mm
he showed a testing method on the lee tester thats not "correct" , also is he testing through the coating or does he remove the coating to test?
I was looking for a range, or what base hardness was ideal prior to coating and how bhn can be affected. Obviously not straight lead, but would coating wheel weights or hardball handle something that originally calls for #2 or linotype, and how much can you push it before you actually have to use #2 or lino.
If its not that vid, its another one (lost another hour of my life down the rabbit hole) where he files off a section to get a good flat spot to test on.
I'm assuming that to keep a constant, they were all filed off for testing.
May have all been metric.
Ended up going from lead to rocket stoves to Sturgis girls. Its my short attention span.