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Bullet Mold Porn ✊💦
- Thread starter Broc Tuah
- Start date
Jay77
NES Member
185 gr .452……
mousegunguy
NES Member
I just got this one today..
Artie
NES Member
Lee molds are the STDs of the casting world. Some you just can't wait to get rid of, others were fun getting and working through the issues. I ain't proud but no need for pics.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
My .582 "old style" Minie Ball dual cavity. Hand made by George Gompf of Tennessee Bullet Moulds. As I understand George was / is the godfather of muzzleloader moulds involved in NSSA competitions. I'm privilaged to say I got one of the last available .58 Minie moulds available as George is no longer making moulds due to declining health. Outstanding craftsmanship. Paid good money for this mould, and don't care wish he had more for sale. I really struggled when I first got this mould with "cold spots" and George walked me through some tips and BOOM I was dropping very nice pieces. This mould likes the HEAT ! As you can see, loaded with "patina" , not a shelf queen mould 
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LEE's are a crap shoot. You pay $26 for 'em and you get what you pay for. 2 out of my 5 LEE moulds are (were) warped.
Broc Tuah
NES Member
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Beautiful.My .582 "old style" Minie Ball dual cavity. Hand made by George Gompf of Tennessee Bullet Moulds. As I understand George was / is the godfather of muzzleloader moulds involved in NSSA competitions. I'm privilaged to say I got one of the last available .58 Mini moulds available as George is no longer making moulds due to declining health. Outstanding craftsmanship. Paid good money for this mould, and don't care wish he had more for sale. I really struggled when I first got this mould with "cold spots" and George walked me through some tips and BOOM I was dropping very nice pieces. This mould likes the HEAT ! As you can see, loaded with "patina" , not a shelf queen mould
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Lennypeters
NES Member
I have several NOE molds. They are all aluminum and work great. Next time I decide I "need" one I am going to try brass.
Artie
NES Member
I have 8 molds and all Lee. I haven't had issues but I knew what I was getting into during purchase. I got lucky but not picture worth. Some of the cast bullets were picture worth.
Broc Tuah
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I have 3 Lee, purchased because I thought "f*ck it, they are cheap".
2 are fine. One is a pain, the screw for the spruce plate keeps getting lose, which causes the plate to move almost 360 degrees. That would be fine, but the brilliant engineers had to build the stop as part of the plate (you know how they bend it) so when it is coming back around, it gets stuck against the handles. If they just used a screw to stop the plate, like they do in cast iron molds or the NOE molds, this wouldn't be an issue.
I am so frustrated at that f*cking mold, I just want to shoot it ... and I might.
![[laugh]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/012.gif "Laugh [laugh]")
Anyway ...
I am looking at purchasing another BACO mold (probably the best molds out there), I am debating if I want to paper patch or if I buy one of their 535g with 3 reduced bands. I currently have one with 2 reduced bands which is nice to seat the bullet further out. I am thinking of 3 reduced bands so I dont need to compress the powder as much, I can play with more loads.
But, I might just do paper patch instead. Still thinking about it.
I can help you with the loose sprue plate. Maybe we can drill and tap a locking set screw against the sprue retaining bolt ?I have 3 Lee, purchased because I thought "f*ck it, they are cheap".
2 are fine. One is a pain, the screw for the spruce plate keeps getting lose, which causes the plate to move almost 360 degrees. That would be fine, but the brilliant engineers had to build the stop as part of the plate (you know how they bend it) so when it is coming back around, it gets stuck against the handles. If they just used a screw to stop the plate, like they do in cast iron molds or the NOE molds, this wouldn't be an issue.
I am so frustrated at that f*cking mold, I just want to shoot it ... and I might.
Anyway ...
I am looking at purchasing another BACO mold (probably the best molds out there), I am debating if I want to paper patch or if I buy one of their 535g with 3 reduced bands. I currently have one with 2 reduced bands which is nice to seat the bullet further out. I am thinking of 3 reduced bands so I dont need to compress the powder as much, I can play with more loads.
But, I might just do paper patch instead. Still thinking about it.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Be a man. Paper patch.I have 3 Lee, purchased because I thought "f*ck it, they are cheap".
2 are fine. One is a pain, the screw for the spruce plate keeps getting lose, which causes the plate to move almost 360 degrees. That would be fine, but the brilliant engineers had to build the stop as part of the plate (you know how they bend it) so when it is coming back around, it gets stuck against the handles. If they just used a screw to stop the plate, like they do in cast iron molds or the NOE molds, this wouldn't be an issue.
I am so frustrated at that f*cking mold, I just want to shoot it ... and I might.
Anyway ...
I am looking at purchasing another BACO mold (probably the best molds out there), I am debating if I want to paper patch or if I buy one of their 535g with 3 reduced bands. I currently have one with 2 reduced bands which is nice to seat the bullet further out. I am thinking of 3 reduced bands so I dont need to compress the powder as much, I can play with more loads.
But, I might just do paper patch instead. Still thinking about it.
Broc Tuah
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Let me think about that. That would be interesting.
My Minie mould uses this method. Its a great way to maintain a nice smooth moving sprue plate. You want the sprue plate adjusted so it cuts a clean surface at the bullet tip (or the base) but isnt too tight where it binds when you rotate the plate.
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Problem is that a lot of Lee molds don't have a lot of meat around the sprue plate bolt - you might need to pull the handles and drill from the inside of the mold
I've tried more than once to remove the LEE handle mount pins and no luck. Those suckers are TIGHT. Kept stripping my hex key wrenches.
I drill from the top and push them out - two cavity molds have press fit pins not screws in my experience
So here's a pic of my LEE 312-185 and the handle mount pin is clearly a set screw ? These are somehow locked in TIGHT
This mould is made by Bernie Rowles at Old West Bullet Moulds. It's called a "Silhouette" it's .459 and a whopping 547 gr . The mould is brass, and it's very forgiving and easy to pour very nice bullets even if your temps get a bit hot or cold.
My last flagship mould is a BACO .443 for paper patch slicks. Steel mould, and again outstanding quality. No worries paying big coin for BACO moulds they are worth it all day long.
I wish I had kept a few of the pins
They are mostly smooth shanked with about the last 3/16 having a deep helical knurl.
Some may be different but the ones I've replaced were all the same
Edit:
Lee Precison Double Cavity BLANK Bullet Mold # 90801 New! | eBay
Lee Precision Double Cavity Blank Bullet Molds are precision machined blank mold blocks and components. Double Cavity BLANK Mold. Mold Blocks. We are a Factory Direct Dealer of Lee Precision, Inc. Machined Aluminum BLANK.
www.ebay.com
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Thanks for the info. Now I sort of see how the pins tighten. No wonder I had no luck trying to "unscrew" the pins. I wonder if they just press the pins in at assembly and let the helical thread embed into the aluminum ?I wish I had kept a few of the pins
They are mostly smooth shanked with about the last 3/16 having a deep helical knurl.
Some may be different but the ones I've replaced were all the same
Edit:
View attachment 619937
Lee Precison Double Cavity BLANK Bullet Mold # 90801 New! | eBay
Lee Precision Double Cavity Blank Bullet Molds are precision machined blank mold blocks and components. Double Cavity BLANK Mold. Mold Blocks. We are a Factory Direct Dealer of Lee Precision, Inc. Machined Aluminum BLANK.www.ebay.com
Exactly what they do - I think the hex pattern in the end is to stake it in place more (doesn't always work)
OK thanks, and just for clarification you have had success by drilling the opposite side of the pin hole and driving the pin out ?
Yes but this was done on my mini-mill so I could precisely locate the pin.
Sharpie marker and calipers should get you close enough on a drill press though
If I remember correctly I used a #8 tap drill then tapped the hole from the bottom so the threads didn't reach the top - tighten a setscrew up against the partial threads and they don't back out
Broc Tuah
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Yes, BACO is good stuff.
Bought a couple of Lee molds and frankly couldn't get them to work. Any aluminium molds will be from NOE,Accurate or Arsenal. Had a brass mold from MP worked great but the weight of it caused my carpel tunnel to start back up.
I have to be carefull of repetitive right arm movements. I gave myself tennis elbow from stupid amounts of nightly reloading back when I bought my first RCBS press. I can't completely get rid of the TE . I've learned to just go easy on the joint. When I do a run of my very heavy steel .58 cal mould Minni Balls I use the steel resting "shelf" thats on my LEE Pro pot. It's a big help in minimising joint fatigue. I also switch between RH and LH and this works well for me.