Bullet Casting & Coating MegaThread

[mac1911]

Does the mold always leave that ridge? What are those spiny things ?

Usually mold and alloy running on the hot side and or mold not 100% closed. The spines are the vents along the seem.

 

[240Geezer]

Usually mold and alloy running on the hot side and or mold not 100% closed. The spines are the vents along the seem.

Got it.

 

[Jay77]

Some more.

 

[Jay77]

Ladle poured.

 

[Jay77]

Usually mold and alloy running on the hot side and or mold not 100% closed. The spines are the vents along the seem.

most likely not closed tight.

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

Ladle poured.

Love ladle.

 

[Jay77]

I’m definitely hooked on ladle pouring. I seemed to have less issues with better bullets.

 

[pastera]

Couple things.
Lead works softens. Opposite of metals were used to.
Also when you heat it up it’s going to soften.

So you should do your 3 coats of hi-tek and water drop from the last coat.

Then size asap and allow to work harden over the couple weeks.

Even better is to water drop after sizing

 

[Jay77]

I have some coating to do this week. I don’t know how many pounds I poured but I think I’m just about out of COWW which is a different problem.

 

[mac1911]

Question , reheating Hitek …will it compromise it. For pistol velocities and pressures you dont need hard bullets

 

[Jay77]

Has anyone tried two coats of Hi-tek … size … do another layer of Hi-tek and water drop after the third coat. I have 40 pounds on deck to be coated. I poured some 45’s I could use as test case if anyone wants me to give it a whirl.

 

[ddeck]

Has anyone tried two coats of Hi-tek … size … do another layer of Hi-tek and water drop after the third coat. I have 40 pounds on deck to be coated. I poured some 45’s I could use as test case if anyone wants me to give it a whirl.

The tips in the instructions I have indicate to not try to coat after sizing since it will not adhere properly. I read that the "pores" close up on sizing or something.

 

[pastera]

Question , reheating Hitek …will it compromise it. For pistol velocities and pressures you dont need hard bullets

Not at all - you can melt the lead out of the coating.

 

[pastera]

Has anyone tried two coats of Hi-tek … size … do another layer of Hi-tek and water drop after the third coat. I have 40 pounds on deck to be coated. I poured some 45’s I could use as test case if anyone wants me to give it a whirl.

It doesn't stick well after sizing - too much contamination from the die.

Coat -> size -> throw back in the oven and as soon as the bullets hit 180-200°c dump them in the bucket.

 

[mac1911]

It doesn't stick well after sizing - too much contamination from the die.

Coat -> size -> throw back in the oven and as soon as the bullets hit 180-200°c dump them in the bucket.

Is that even hot enough?
IIRC Lyman cast manual says 500’ or until bullets slump then back off 50-80’F ?

 

[mac1911]

Has anyone tried two coats of Hi-tek … size … do another layer of Hi-tek and water drop after the third coat. I have 40 pounds on deck to be coated. I poured some 45’s I could use as test case if anyone wants me to give it a whirl.

Do you guys really need to size your bullets. Sure If you mold drops +.002 or more but honestly have you all just tried as dropped from the mold. Coat then age a bit and load them up.

45 acp definitely does not need hard bullets.

 

[pastera]

Is that even hot enough?
IIRC Lyman cast manual says 500’ or until bullets slump then back off 50-80’F ?

Heat treating cast bullets and lead - antimony - arsenic alloys

Hotter gets harder faster - 500°F is fine if you have a good method to control temps

 

[mac1911]

Heat treating cast bullets and lead - antimony - arsenic alloys

Hotter gets harder faster - 500°F is fine if you have a good method to control temps

Thats if any of the lead in the past 20 years even has arsenic in it, lol

 

[mac1911]

I knew I had a vid somewhere
Heres a look at the 38spl bore

View: https://youtu.be/15eCEskpNgc?si=n5XNWHO_OpR4XJ2G

 

[Jay77]

Love ladle.

So I ended up coating 14 batches of bullets at three pounds each and what a difference of bullet quality between ladle and pot poured. I had to really look for test bullets for the hi-tek tests… all the batches were successful.

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

So I ended up coating 14 batches of bullets at three pounds each and what a difference of bullet quality between ladle and pot poured. I had to really look for test bullets for the hi-tek tests… all the batches were successful.

You can’t really beat it. That’s why I try to show at the seminar. The difference between ladle pouring a bullet versus bottom pouring. Even with a mold that’s not exactly up to temperature. Results are drastically different. If you get the right size ladle, it doesn’t slow you down at all either.
If you have a mold, that’s really tricky and gives you fits switching over to a ladle usually solves the problem

 

[ddeck]

Continuing with the 9mm. This bullet is with 3 coats of Hi-Tek. There is a lot less leading than the 2 coats. Same bullet, sized the same, same powder/charge, same number of rounds (100)). These were also shot 4 days after sizing (no water drop or anything to see about the softer alloy). I'm going to go to 4 coats of Hi-Tek and see what happens. The leading here is only on the rifling, whereas previously it was in the grooves. (post #1489 here). It also seemed to not be as much at the throat end.

I'm really fine with this since it comes right out with one swipe of the boresnake, but I'd like to get to zero leading at all.

 

[Jay77]

I swapped over to loading up some fmj for the Garands. I don’t load to many FMJ’s anymore. So now I’ll have a Dillon tool head for 30.06 fmj and one for cast.

 

[mac1911]

Continuing with the 9mm. This bullet is with 3 coats of Hi-Tek. There is a lot less leading than the 2 coats. Same bullet, sized the same, same powder/charge, same number of rounds (100)). These were also shot 4 days after sizing (no water drop or anything to see about the softer alloy). I'm going to go to 4 coats of Hi-Tek and see what happens. The leading here is only on the rifling, whereas previously it was in the grooves. (post #1489 here). It also seemed to not be as much at the throat end.

I'm really fine with this since it comes right out with one swipe of the boresnake, but I'd like to get to zero leading at all.

View attachment 867410View attachment 867411

IDK , I would not be happy with leading with the HyTek coating.

Im trying to wrap my head around your problems.

At this point what I would do.

Get a known alloy

Noting harder than say lyman #2
No water dropping no quencing.

Heck I would not even size them. Unless they drop over sized.

Coat them and shoot them

I also suggest reading up on some old cast load info. Ricard Lee of Lee Reloading , Kieth
Also read “from Ingot to Bullet”

I still stand by to hard , to big

Also maybe a but more flare on the case. Avoid shaving coating and sizing down the bullet.

Bullet profile —- maybe

 

[mac1911]

I’ve been in the new shop just over a year now and we do quite a bit of tires more than my last shot. When I started this bucket, maybe had 2 inches of wheel weights in it a year later we’re just cresting halfway. And I can tell you, I probably put half of those wheel weights in there. And I’m gonna say this right now. Lucky there’s 25% worth of t lead in that bucket.

 

[240Geezer]

Have you checked the spot price on antimony lately?

 

[Jay77]

I’m revisiting an old project…. I slugged the bore to .3128 and I sized a batch of lee 185gr and a MP314410 to .314. Both bullets are hi-tek coated with no traditional lube and I found the leading starting near the breach. This is COWW and both were loaded with 2400 lee was 16gr and the 314410 was 17gr.

I chrono’d the 314410 and the results were super close to GRT. About 1853 fps (which could be the problem)… They shot pretty good at the 100. There are not to many mold options for a 190-200gr bullet in 314. I did order a Lyman 314299 and lube die in .314. My last few projects have been successes….

 

[mac1911]

Have you checked the spot price on antimony lately?

Nope, dont use it and I dont think theres much of anything in modern wheel weights. Anyone have the Metal X ray gun to zap a few new production wheel weights?

 

[mac1911]

I’m revisiting an old project…. I slugged the bore to .3128 and I sized a batch of lee 185gr and a MP314410 to .314. Both bullets are hi-tek coated with no traditional lube and I found the leading starting near the breach. This is COWW and both were loaded with 2400 lee was 16gr and the 314410 was 17gr.

I chrono’d the 314410 and the results were super close to GRT. About 1853 fps (which could be the problem)… They shot pretty good at the 100. There are not to many mold options for a 190-200gr bullet in 314. I did order a Lyman 314299 and lube die in .314. My last few projects have been successes….

What Rifle , Really 1800fps with 16 gr and a 200 grain slug…

If its a gas check design bullet your most likely getting gas checking .
What rifle I have some hutek 6.5 swede bullets and I gas check them or I get a little leading that light skim coat along the bore.

 

[Jay77]

What Rifle , Really 1800fps with 16 gr and a 200 grain slug…

If its a gas check design bullet your most likely getting gas checking .
What rifle I have some hutek 6.5 swede bullets and I gas check them or I get a little leading that light skim coat along the bore.

An old Enfield and the 1800 fps was coming from the 314410’s that come in on the lighter side… 130gr. I tried those because it was the biggest diameter I had on hand coated and good to go. I started to beagle the molds and decided to just snag the Lyman… plus I wanted to get the .314 lube die. I don’t lose too much sleep if it’s a little bit of leading…this was thick enough to feel with a wet patch.