beginner long distance rifle suggestions

agree. 26" would be flat out annoying. for .223 a 20" is great but the handiness of a 16" is incredible

20" is the longest I would go for 308 even then I would rather have a 16". My longest 223/556 barrel is 18.5", and I only own that one because I bought it years ago before I knew what I was doing and it shoots lights out. Hell, I decided get a 6.5CM barrel for my 308 lower and wouldn't go any longer then 20" for that. Long barrels are lame unless you have a specific velocity number you have to reach for what ever you are trying to accomplish. For me, I will not likely have the need to shoot much more then 1k, if that, so the extra barrel length is a bit of a waste for me.

I am actually collecting parts for a 14.5" mini-SPR type upper to swap between my 18.5" upper because I wanted a "precision" scoped carbine that was shorter, lighter and a bit more handy.
 
20" is the longest I would go for 308 even then I would rather have a 16". My longest 223/556 barrel is 18.5", and I only own that one because I bought it years ago before I knew what I was doing and it shoots lights out. Hell, I decided get a 6.5CM barrel for my 308 lower and wouldn't go any longer then 20" for that. Long barrels are lame unless you have a specific velocity number you have to reach for what ever you are trying to accomplish. For me, I will not likely have the need to shoot much more then 1k, if that, so the extra barrel length is a bit of a waste for me.

I am actually collecting parts for a 14.5" mini-SPR type upper to swap between my 18.5" upper because I wanted a "precision" scoped carbine that was shorter, lighter and a bit more handy.

word

on a gas gun, to me the major reason to go 18 or 20" is to get the rifle length gas system, which runs so damn smooth. while the 16" mid-length is probably the most functional setup, folk who've never shot a rifle length are really impressed when they pull the trigger. due to my rifle length gas setups I really cannot tolerate a 16" carbine setup anymore...it's noticably rougher. i have no personal data on gas port erosion, but i would think the rifle length will have less issues there.

on a bolt action where's there no gas system, the longer barrel to me adds even less. my ruger ranch 16" 5.56 feels perfect. overall i'm happy with anything in the 16-20 " range. there's no gas block, handguard etc hanging out there so i feel like the weight increase with barrel length is less severe on a bolt gun.

when it comes to 308 i like to run a muzzle brake to help facilitate spotting my own shots. my sense is that going from 16 -> 18" gets that brake just far enough away that it's tolerable. the internal ballistics of 18" are marginally better than 16", so i agree on a 308 the 16" is probably most functional setup.
 
word

on a gas gun, to me the major reason to go 18 or 20" is to get the rifle length gas system, which runs so damn smooth. while the 16" mid-length is probably the most functional setup, folk who've never shot a rifle length are really impressed when they pull the trigger. due to my rifle length gas setups I really cannot tolerate a 16" carbine setup anymore...it's noticably rougher. i have no personal data on gas port erosion, but i would think the rifle length will have less issues there.

+1, I have my rifle length 18" upper on a lower with an A2 RE and buffer/spring, it is so soft. When I put my can on it I can call my own impacts and watch the vapor trail when the sun is in the right spot. It's a rad stick.

img_20180831_170417-jpg.245492



on a bolt action where's there no gas system, the longer barrel to me adds even less. my ruger ranch 16" 5.56 feels perfect. overall i'm happy with anything in the 16-20 " range. there's no gas block, handguard etc hanging out there so i feel like the weight increase with barrel length is less severe on a bolt gun.

Admittedly I don't have much experience with bolt guns. My wife has a Rem700 SPS in 308 with a 20" barrel and it is too much for me, especially with a suppressor. I have a 308 HOWA 1500 with an 18" barrel, but to be honest I'd rather shoot my 556 gas guns. More realistic, cheaper, and more fun.

when it comes to 308 i like to run a muzzle brake to help facilitate spotting my own shots. my sense is that going from 16 -> 18" gets that brake just far enough away that it's tolerable. the internal ballistics of 18" are marginally better than 16", so i agree on a 308 the 16" is probably most functional setup.

100%. My 308 gas gun barrel is 16" and if I could have it my way, I'd like a 16" 308 bolt gun.
 
checkout the ruger american ranch rifles 16” setups i have one in 5.56 and one in 7.62x39. the latter is at ruger now getting rebarelled but theyre both perfect handy bolt guns. my 5.56 runs on the ruger rotary mags whixh are wicked smooth w the action but now they make one that uses AR mags is considering picking one up assuming the action is smooth.
 
Few people have talked about a varmint or tactical 700, what's the main differences, why would I want one over the other?
 
Few people have talked about a varmint or tactical 700, what's the main differences, why would I want one over the other?

i'm not an R700 guy. with the current Bergara offerings I don't see any point in a current production R700. the older R700's are clearly nice rifles but I see them all as a $$ pit.
 
I was shooting my .223 bolt action at the 300 yard range at Harvard last week. The Savage is known for it's accuracy and the .223 is plenty at 300 yards. Mine is a Ruger with a Leupold scope and you're welcome to try it. Qualifying at the 200/300 is pretty easy and you could probably do it without a scope. Ed has a very low tolerance for bullshit. He's a former marine but under that gruff exterior is a nice guy. He and his pals are all good shots and will help you become a better shot.
 
OP - Personally, I would stick with a .223. At 300 yards and under it can do everything a .308 can do. Plus, the recoil will be less which will help with your shooting and help you see your misses. And ammo will be cheaper.

Also, I would definitely go with a bolt gun. Easier to shoot accurately and not hard to find a relatively inexpensive one that can shoot MOA. People seem to like the Savages as an inexpensive alternative. I own a Tikka, which is very nice but will be more money.

As someone who also shoots lefty, if you are shooting from the bench and don't need to make multiple shots quickly a right handed rifle works fine. If you will also be shooting prone, sitting, offhand, or you are trying to put multiple rounds downrange within some time limit, I would go with a left handed gun.

Finally, if you are limited to 300 yard shooting, you don't need to spend a ton on your optics. I'm not saying you can cheap out, but a decent mid-priced scope will work fine. Personally, I have always had great luck with SWFA and their line of Supersniper scopes (cheesy name, but the scopes are very good values). You could probably even go with a 12x fixed scope, although the variable scopes are nice and give you added flexibility.

Now once you get into it and decide you want to start shooting at 700-1000 yards and beyond, things will start getting expensive. You will need to spend more on your rifle, more on your scope and ditch the .223. Frankly, IMHO there are better choices than .308 as well (although people have been successfully shooting it out to 1000 yards for decades).
 
^this^
As a lefty I would go with a lh bolt gun if possible. I have many rh bolt guns but I do prefer the lh action just a tad more.
One of the advantages of sticking with a common caliber like 223 or 308 for a new shooter is the almost endless info out there on those calibers. It's easy to find tried and true ammo, components, literature, milsurp practice ammo, etc, etc.
 
Few people have talked about a varmint or tactical 700, what's the main differences, why would I want one over the other?

There are a number of variations but the following are generally accurate

Both are heavy barrel. Usually they are in same stock except for color.

Varmint is usually 26" barrel and the barrel is NOT threaded.

Tactical barrels are 16" 20" or 24" and the end of barrel IS threaded for muzzle brake or suppressor.
Tactical version about $50 more (sale price to sale price.) YMMV

Muzzle brake minimizes barrel rise so allows you to see hits and misses on steel and quicker to get back on target for next shot. If you're punching paper it doesn't matter?

More barrel length gets you more bullet speed. Shorter barrel length is lighter rifle and easier handling.
My quick opinion on barrel length ( keep in mind cartridge choice has high impact)
300 yards and under 16" barrel will be fine for smaller faster calibers. Probably also .308

Even on AR I have 20" barrel for 300 -600 yard work. I've never tried shorter barrel at these distances.

My bolt guns I have used 300 -1000 yards have so far all been 26" barrel. I just bought 24" tactical but haven't played with it much. I suspect it will be 200 fps slower out of 2" shorter barrel. At 1000 yards will require more dial up and wind correction. Enough to be a problem? Guess I'll see.

The 24" tactical I bought is destined for coyote hunting. Longest shot possible 500 yards. I'm sure it will do this easily.
 
+1, I have my rifle length 18" upper on a lower with an A2 RE and buffer/spring, it is so soft. When I put my can on it I can call my own impacts and watch the vapor trail when the sun is in the right spot. It's a rad stick.

img_20180831_170417-jpg.245492





Admittedly I don't have much experience with bolt guns. My wife has a Rem700 SPS in 308 with a 20" barrel and it is too much for me, especially with a suppressor. I have a 308 HOWA 1500 with an 18" barrel, but to be honest I'd rather shoot my 556 gas guns. More realistic, cheaper, and more fun.



100%. My 308 gas gun barrel is 16" and if I could have it my way, I'd like a 16" 308 bolt gun.

Adopt me and take me to this range
 
Best entry level bolt gun on the market is the tikka t3. The CTR is sub $1000.00 and works fine to start, toss it in a KRG bravo chassis for $350 if you really want the adjustability. If you can go big upfront, the t3 tac a1 is fire. Glass is going to be the make or break for an entry rifle. Everyone will tell you Vortex Viper PST for the $$ but we have seen a TON of reliability issued from them. Beware a product thats greatest selling point is its warranty. Since Leupold pulled its mk4 its tough to find legit starter glass. Everything $850 below you should consider consumable and that you'll be upgrading (by choice or by necessity) in the future. Decent options start to appear +/-$1600+. Try to score a used scope that someone is upgrading from, even a used SFP Nightforce can be had for a deal these days, not that'd I'd advocate for SFP over FFP but I certainly advocate for a quality optic with known performance. When it comes to caliber listen to those above; .223 or .308. Both will provide you 10k barrel life and good ammo is easy to find. Inside of 600 the .223 doesn't really give anything up to the .308 ballistically, a little wind, but elevation is nearly identical. The only drawback to .223 is that it will mask your errors with light recoil, so when you do step up in caliber you may find yourself struggling at first. Barrel length....match the length to the caliber and bullet you want to fire first, then look at application. FWIW I haven't owned a .308 with a barrel longer than 20" in a decade. Even the USMC with its painfully slow adoption process went with 19.5" for the m40a6. For .223 though I would favor longer barrels (velocity) but nothing crazy, maybe a 22-24". The Scoped Carbine is THE way to go to get your feet wet before jumping in on a whole new rig. Good ammo, decent optic, bipod and I'll have you hitting at 600 in the first 2 hours of our class.

If you're looking to try before you buy, find an instructor that can provide loaner equipment for an intro class. You should leave that class with enough knowledge to be at least a moderately informed consumer, and maybe with some personal preferences figured out as well. I may know a guy....
 
Vortex 6-24×50mm scope. Great scope for the money and lifetime fully transferrable warranty.
 
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