Beginner AR15 zeroing and using at different distances

Prepper

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I've just begun trying to use my AR15 (M4A3) at the 100 yard range; I previously took it a few times just for 25 yards. Maybe I'm dense or something, but there's some things that are puzzling me. I'd appreciate any feedback about what may be going on and what I am doing wrong. I want to sight in my rifle and then be able to effectively use it at varying distances (although not 300+ yards since I currently only have access to 100 yards).

First, I sight in at 25 yards. I have seen many different descriptions of how to sight in. Some say do it with the 6/3 mark selected on the rear elevation dial, while others say turn it one click lower, or one or two clicks higher. I'm not sure I fully appreciate the reasoning behind any of those, since I never read an explanation as to why a particular technique for sighting in should be used.

Anyway, this weekend I went with the explanation in the Bushmaster manual. It said to put it on 6/3 first then move the knob up two clicks (i.e. the direction that'll eventually get you to 4, 5, 6). I'm not entirely sure why, since I'd expect closer distances to need it lower. Anyway, using the iron sights and a front rest, and adjusting the front post, I got 1" groups at the point of aim 25 yards away. Cool. Then I went home.

Today I tried again at 25 yards, still good... 1" group at 25 yards without having to adjust anything.

Then I put the target at 50 yards. Now, the group is still 1" but it is 2" over where I was aiming. (Keep in mind I still left the elevation knob at the position I used to sight it in... I didn't move it back to 6/3 because I was curious what would happen if I left it alone). I wasn't too happy about the impact locations, but it did give me some data.

Then, I put target at 100 yards. With my spotting scope, I couldn't even tell where the holes were. When I went over, there was a 1" group but it was 6" over where I was aiming, and off the top of the paper.

So, the question is why? What exactly is going on with the path of the bullet in relation to how the sights are lined up to make the bullets go an entire 6" too high in a mere 100 yards? I doubt I was aiming too high but I suppose its possible.

What would be the math I would use to determine where I should expect the bullets to go at 100 yards if I moved the knob 2 clicks back to 6/3?

Since I zero for 25 yards but the minimum position of the knob is for 300 yards (unless you count that one more click lower it'll go whatever that is for), what do people generally do if they want to be accurate at 100 yards (not 300 yards)?
 
Thanks, I'll give that one a try. So, if I follow that, what should my expectation be for accuracy from 25 to 300 yards? According to that, if I zero at 50, it'll also be zeroed at 200 because the bullet crosses up over the alignment of the sights at 50, arches up and then crosses back down across the sights at 200.

Given no human error, where can I expect the bullet to impact at 25, 100, 200 and 300 yards? Or, phrased differently, where's the highest point in the trajectory of the bullet? 125 yards is it? How many inches higher than I want it would it be at 125 yards?

I guess this is acceptable for battlefield use, being 2" off or so, but not for bulls eyes at distances other than what I sighted it in for. Is this just understood to be a limitation of iron sights, and if people really want to be precise at varying distances they just have to use a scope? Should I not be obsessed with trying to get bullseye at 100 yards using iron sights? And just be happy that its close enough to still hit the BG?
 
Found the high point, looks like 2" at 150 yards:

http://groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/zerotrajectories.msnw

My other general questions are still open though.

At bottom it says "It shows how utterly useless that kind of zero is for shooting at under 400 yards (note at 100 yards you are 6" high - at 200 yards its around 10" high)."

Which corresponds exactly to my observations of 6" too high. Phew. For a while there, I thought I might just suck really badly, but its all just Physics.
 
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They way you've sighted in the bullet is rising from the barrel end out to about 150 yds, then starts dropping back down. Remeber the bullet moves in an arc, not like a laser beam. If you were shooting center of mass at 6" doesn't matter too much and you have a zero that will work out to 3-400 yds.

How did you get 1" groups at 25yd, 50yds, and 100yds? Should be a 4" group at 100 yds...

Also, remember to sight in how you will shoot it. You're zero can shift from head placement.
 
The bullet is still rising at 50 yards and has not reached the max ordinate. The trajectory intersects the line of sight at 25m and 300m. Closer than 25M the strike will be lower of the line of sight, beyond 25m the the strike will be higher out to the max ordinate somewhere around 175 ~ 200 some odd meters. Beyond that distance the strike will start to come down out to the zero range where it will intersect the line of sight. beyond the zero range the strike of the bullet will be lower.

B
 
My other general questions are still open though.

At bottom it says "It shows how utterly useless that kind of zero is for shooting at under 400 yards (note at 100 yards you are 6" high - at 200 yards its around 10" high)."

Which corresponds exactly to my observations of 6" too high. Phew. For a while there, I thought I might just suck really badly, but its all just Physics.

It's designed to allow you to shoot center of mass all the way out to 300m and still have a reasonable chance of hitting a kneeling man. That it hits a few inches high somewhere in the middle of the trajectory is not a big deal. It's the same idea for MPBR.

B
 
How did you get 1" groups at 25yd, 50yds, and 100yds? Should be a 4" group at 100 yds...

I'm guessing luck. I was expecting my 1" group to spread to 4". Especially since the front post is covering the entire paper at 100 yards, so its kind of hard to get it within an inch. I'm voting for luck, unless I manage to repeat that on subsequent visits.
 
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