AR Assembly ? - Lube & Grease?

[Starvin]

What do I really need for lube/grease when assembling my AR? Will plain old Hoppe's No. 9 Lube Oil suffice?

I've read some places that grease is necessary?

Can someone give me, or point me to, a "Lubing your AR for dummies" run-down? What parts get lube oil vs. grease, etc.

I'm VERY green at this, so you may have to translate into layman's terms. Pics would be helpfull too.

Thanks in advance. I'm almost there!

 

[Stratocaster1422]

Breakfree CLP.....done

 

[ochmude]

I've never fired an AR myself, but I have some experience with similar designs. Grease is absolutely not necessary at all for any component. Any oil will work, though the smell of CLP brings a smile to my face.

 

[Gammon]

I was a "Break Free" fan for years with great results. When the price got to $6.00 for four ounces at the local gun store, I started to look for a replacement. Synthetic motor oil was a "no brainer". When you compare the hostile environment of an internal combustion engine to the relatively minimal demands of a firearm; synthetic oil seems like "over kill". A quart of premium synthetic goes for about $8 to $10. That's a life time supply of gun oil for about $10!

 

[Starvin]

wow, that's something different, good idea!

 

[vellnueve]

I was a "Break Free" fan for years with great results. When the price got to $6.00 for four ounces at the local gun store, I started to look for a replacement. Synthetic motor oil was a "no brainer". When you compare the hostile environment of an internal combustion engine to the relatively minimal demands of a firearm; synthetic oil seems like "over kill". A quart of premium synthetic goes for about $8 to $10. That's a life time supply of gun oil for about $10!

What kind of oil do you use?

 

[RickG]

If you are talking about assembling a barrel to an upper, you will need grease on the extension and a little on the threads. I used a moly grease from a car parts store and it worked great.

If you are talking about lubrication and protection for your rifle then Mobil 1 works good as does CLP. +1 on the smell of CLP.

 

[Gammon]

What kind of oil do you use?

I might as well give you the whole story. I got the synthetic oil idea from Ciener. My 22 conversion wasn't functioning properly and, when asked for advice, he recommended 5w50 synthetic. I used Castrol and still do for my 22 conversions, but I don't think there is any advantage to a specific brand.

For centerfire guns, I use 20w50 Mobil 1 V Twin oil (because I had some left over from servicing my Harley). As "Break Free" had an additive (teflon) I thought my new and improved oil should too. I use super fine molybdenim disulfide (moly) at .3 of a grain per ounce. I have been using this mix for several years with great results. It is working just as good as the expensive gun oils at a fraction of the cost.

 

[highscore]

A few years ago, my son was shooting his AR down at Quantico and blew a primer. Anyone with a Jewel trigger in an AR knows what a PIA that can be. They had an Armorer who pulled the bolt out of the rifle and proceeded to rip the poor kid a new one because he noticed something that looked like a thin coat of never seize on the bolt. That's what my son got for not cleaning his own rifle!
HS

 

[Gammon]

If you are talking about assembling a barrel to an upper, you will need grease on the extension and a little on the threads. I used a moly grease from a car parts store and it worked great.

If you are talking about lubrication and protection for your rifle then Mobil 1 works good as does CLP. +1 on the smell of CLP.

You really don't want to use grease in this application. You are better off using anti-seize compound. This stuff will take high temperatures and not cook down to a sticky adhesive that makes disassembly a problem. Available at your local auto parts store for short money.

 

[bpm990d]

Check the anti-sieze compound to make sure it contains no graphite. Graphite & aluminum is not a good mix.

B