Anyone casting .223 for AR-15 ?

Perhaps you have a .204 Ruger mold. Most molds will drop a bullet a few thousandths over the nominal diameter. I'd think you should be dropping bullets closer to .226" which will go through your sizer and get sized to your specific dimensions, be it .224" , .225", whatever.
As long as you're happy with the results, go for it.

Actually, if any of you casters have some 70ish grain bullets at .227/8" diameter, let me know. It wouldn't hurt to have some toppings for some 22 Hi-Powers.
 
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Here's the mold I use:
[h=1]LEE 6 CAV MOLD C225-55-RF

http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-6-cav-mold-c22555rf
[/h]

If your dropping 211 it's either a poor mold or alloy problem.

One thing about cast is its not a velocity needing accuracy thing. It's very opposite really.
I can push my cast 30-06 loads to 2200 fps with out much effort but accuracy drops way off.
My most accurate range so far is 1600-1900 fps.

I bet a doughnut or 2 that if you can get your bullets to drop .225ish and send them through the sized at 224 or 225 accuracy will improve I also think trying a slightly lower velocity say 1700-2000 fps.?

As for a 2 cavity mold... yes that's fine. I can get more control and much better quality running my 2 cavity molds. I have a 6 for my 308 loads and a six for 45 and 9 mm. They are great don't get me wrong but I spend more time getting them to drop nice bullets and a higher rejection rate with the 6 vs the 2. I have lots of time to cast and load so,I'm never really in a rush to get mass amounts done in on sitting.
I'm running clip on wheel weights and adding 2% tin to my alloy this only helps with fill out. I do get better fill out adding the 2% tin and it really shows with the tumble lube designs.

1/9 should be ok. Just a Note it's always good to read what the reload data uses for its testing.
Lyman cast handbook for 223 rem uses a 24" barrel with 1/12 twist.

Keeping eye on this thread and enjoy your postings.
 
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From the same pot with same alloy I also cast .45 bullits, using mold 452-200-RF

They dropped as .453", pretty much as expected. 1/1000 of inch is within the margin of error of my caliper.

This was the first cast with the .225 mold, I sometimes find first time mold usage has its oddities, maybe it's true, maybe it's just chance.

The best would be to wait for the next cast and see how they drop.

My alloy composition has no method besides: Wheel weights lead + 10% by weight of rejected bullet from previous casts, as long as previous cast was enriched with tin. If not, 6" wire of tin solder for each 1lb ingut.

I do want to get my hands on pure lead and make my own Linotype, test for Hardness-Brinnel and keep exact records that way.

What do you folks have for Brinnel testing ? I'm not sure I want the Lee model, and anything above is pretty pricey.
 
I don't have a Bnh tester. A NES'r tested some of my alloys.
My clip on wheel weights with 2%tin run 15-18<water quenched. More than enough for my needs.

I gave up on trying to make custom alloy.

Linotype will drop larger dia than WW alloy but runs about 3-4% lighter...

Looking forward to seeing more
 
What do you folks have for Brinnel testing ? I'm not sure I want the Lee model, and anything above is pretty pricey.

I gather wheel weights and bullet scrap that I recover; sometimes range pit collections. I drop into a bucket of water to provide a soft landing, but don't know what my hardness scale is. As long as I get good fill-out and can size, lube and reload them, they are good to go. All of my loads shoot better than I can, so I don't see the need to make things more complicated.
As mentioned before, unless I need something unique to my bullet-making capabilities, I have been buying coated bullets from Norman in Roswell, NM. His prices make it hard to justify lighting the Coleman stove.
Also, I don't recall when I last ran a brush down the bore of any of my rifles...
You might get better dimension control with a micrometer for measuring bullet diameters.

My go to bullet in .30 is the Lyman 311410. It is an M1 Carbine bullet, but I use it often in .308 Winchester (FR-7), 7.5 Swiss (K31). It could go atop a .30-30 Winchester, too, although it isn't the flattest tip around for tube magazines. Most rounds below are dummies...just for illustrative purposes.




It drops around .314", so it is great in 7.62x39/54R, 7.7 Jap, .303 British, 7.65 Argentine....
7.0g of Unique (virtually any pistol powder) makes for all-day, economical shooting.

Might not be your first pick for Whitetail hunting, but it kills paper, steel and bowling pins just fine. Even the 18g Plastic Riot bullets take the pins down!
 
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Good stuff NavelOfficer.

I'm shopping on/off for a 7.62 bolt action with a scope. But then I'm limited to the 100 yard range in my club. Not really a challenge.
I wish I had a place where I could shoot 500meters (~550 yards)at steel targets. Optimal distance for me (when scoped) for decent shooting.
 
I wish I had a place where I could shoot 500meters (~550 yards)at steel targets.

Don't we all!
With some of my pipsqueak cast loads, I don't know if I could lob them 500 meters. I'd be up for the test though.
A trip to my cousin's farm (NW side of CT) gets me 200 yards, but with only one rifle with optics (a 2x EER at that), I can't see much at that range either.


This is about 180 yards. Need to stand behind a break in the treeline, into an adjacent field, to get to 200 yards

 
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The farm looks beautiful.

The distance there would be a good challenge for iron sights shooting. If a clay pigeon sized target can be hit from that distance repeatedly, it's an ultimate proof of accuracy.
 
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I'll PM you the details.
NES doesn't want names/addresses posted of those that ship to MA.

The prices are for regular cast and coated bullets, per 100.
Fill a flat-rate and minimize shipping expense.
 
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