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80% AR build/build party in Nahsua, NH --LAST CALL--
- Thread starter Golddiggie
- Start date
Golddiggie
NES Member
I should be around... Shoot me a PM/email when you have a better idea on the time frame.
If the holes are off you might want to start over. Mistakes due to crappy jigs are not your fault, and the majority of the time is spent on the mill anyway...
I found out the hard way how that works. I finished a lower and found out on final assembly that the jig was far enough out of wack that springs were coming out of the side of my inside pocket. Two hours wasted of my time, but worse, time wasted of those who were there to help me.
F those jigs
F those jigs
Golddiggie
NES Member
You might. Bring it with you and we'll look at it before you get into milling it.
We worked with ninemilshooter today to get his almost finished. I got a couple of steps closer to being able to do this without Dave here. It's really just a matter of remembering the points to hit and such. It also helps to remember the gibs to lock down more, to prevent things from moving in a bad way.
Now is the time for people wanting to come up over this weekend to let us know.
Golddiggie
NES Member
Expect to be.
lancecolonel
NES Member
adam, can you email me links to the prints you had? i was thinking that if the milling was done using solid x and y numbers that it would go so much smoother than the "eyeball" method we used. iirc, one of the prints had all the x dimensions from the centerline of the front pivot pin hole. it would be super easy to edgefind a pin in that hole and go from there. the y dimensions could all come from the centerline of the mag well. as long as the vice never shifts and the stop you set up never moves then the numbers will stay the same for every lower that needs to be milled. if you can get me the prints i can figure out the proper numbers for each endmill diameter and get the numbers back to you.
Golddiggie
NES Member
Same as the other weekends. Doors can open after 9:30am.
I was thinking about how you guys were trying to locate the trigger slot. I was thinking you could use the top plate of the jig that was designed to mill out the trigger slot to locate the holes. If you took the jig out of the mill and installed the top plate for the trigger slot and drilled it on the drill press it would at least give you a start and end point to use as a reference when you free hand it on the mill.
Golddiggie
NES Member
When you see the setup next you'll see the process change that's been made for the trigger slot... Not going to say what was done, you need to see it in person.
That is soooo mysterious! It just so happens I'm at that point in the process too...
Golddiggie
NES Member
I'm up and just sitting in the living room so if anyone wants to come on over, they're welcome to. I don't want to head into the basement without someone here so I don't miss the doorbell and such. Although you could just rap on the basement window (by the kitchen/driveway) or bang on the bulkhead doors if I don't go to the front door in a reasonable amount of time.
I did spray the nest on the light bulb that's forming to the left of the front door, last night. Waiting until tomorrow (night) to remove it.
I did spray the nest on the light bulb that's forming to the left of the front door, last night. Waiting until tomorrow (night) to remove it.
Golddiggie
NES Member
The heat is one of the reasons I'm not going anywhere today (or tomorrow). Luckily, the place I have [crrently] has central AC. I will have to go out to cook on the grill, but at least that's just a few moments in the heat, not an extended amount of time.
BTW, I won't own a car/truck without AC in it.
I just bought an AC compressor off of a '73 Mecedes ($37). This will be going on my '08 Dodge RAM for on board air.
It will be changed over to just pump air for the air horns. I may upgrade to a REAL Nathan K5LA train horn this winter.
Malodave
Any time set for people coming by on Sunday?
It will be changed over to just pump air for the air horns. I may upgrade to a REAL Nathan K5LA train horn this winter.
Malodave
Any time set for people coming by on Sunday?
Old school compressor will do the job. Now if you could just get freon for it instead of the neutered stuff they put in cars today. I mean, sure, it ate the ozone up and all but my neighbor's '73 Chrysler wagon was like an ice box on wheels in the summer.
Golddiggie
NES Member
Got one person coming up around 10am (or so)... Got more slots open if anyone [else] wants to scoot over today.
Jeep had AC when I got it (over a decade ago), now it won't hold a charge. I should probably fill it with one of the dye-tagged coolants and hunt down the source of the leak, just in case it's actually repairable.
Yesterday we completed one Billet lower. We got permission from Dropride to modify
his jig to fit since he still has a billet lower to do also. I also did a Matrix 80% too.
With the methods we are using there are two aluminum plugs in the Matrix lower.
The first is at the front of the large FCG Pocket. I just had to move the 5/8"
endmill off of the front wall before moving down for a deeper cut. This eliminated
the chattering from the void left from the plugs removal.
The Second plug is located at the thin portion of the FCG Pocket. Milling this area
with a .415" endmill stopped the mill three times and eventually chipped a tooth
off the Sacrificial Gear on the mill. I was only down for about 10 minutes to change
the gear. I will have to do something to remove the plugs for future Matix Lowers.
I am thinking of drilling the Plugs and using an Easy Out screw extractor to remove them.
I will try that with the next one we get in.
Malodave
his jig to fit since he still has a billet lower to do also. I also did a Matrix 80% too.
With the methods we are using there are two aluminum plugs in the Matrix lower.
The first is at the front of the large FCG Pocket. I just had to move the 5/8"
endmill off of the front wall before moving down for a deeper cut. This eliminated
the chattering from the void left from the plugs removal.
The Second plug is located at the thin portion of the FCG Pocket. Milling this area
with a .415" endmill stopped the mill three times and eventually chipped a tooth
off the Sacrificial Gear on the mill. I was only down for about 10 minutes to change
the gear. I will have to do something to remove the plugs for future Matix Lowers.
I am thinking of drilling the Plugs and using an Easy Out screw extractor to remove them.
I will try that with the next one we get in.
Malodave
Golddiggie
NES Member
It's how they hold the lowers for machining once they get the forgings. I knew about it (from dropride) earlier, so I was expecting them. Didn't know where they were though. Now we do know, so we can work around them. Just means you need to take more care when machining one of their forged 80% lowers.
