Wow. I'm trying to follow this one but it's going in a lot of directions. I'm not sure if your use to the AR platform as some of the questions are kinda novice so I'm assuming you are not. I can't speak for the DPMS rifle, maybe more for the Rock river version as it's the re-release of mine. I have the now not manufactured Bushmaster .308. It's built with an Ace skeleton stock, 20" 1-10 twist chrome-molybdenum barrel, A2 sights, Izzy compensator and uses both inch and metric FAL mags. It does have a dust cover, forward assist and deflector. Empty, it weighs in at just under 10 lbs. As far as some of your questions go, yes, you want a dust cover as it will keep out small objects, sand, twigs, whatever out of your internals on your hunt and at the range if it's just sitting there and dust when stored. Yes, you want a forward assist, just in case, I've never used mine on this or any AR but it's there if I need to. What it does is it will push the round fully into the chamber if it failed to feed fully. The deflector helps me as I'm left handed. The deflector is an extrusion on the left hand side where the ejected shell will hit and make it fly more forward then back. I wish they had them on the old M16A1's, sucks, to catch a hot one. By way of magazines, as I said, mine accepts FAL magazines so they are not propritory (ie, expensive) as many of the 308 AR's are. I believe the RRA's are the same. Also, most states that allow center fire also have a 5 round limit. FAL 5 rounders are available over the net for short money, I have a few. As far a barrel lengths go, .308 hunting rifles are usually 22-24". High velocity (3,000 fps+) cartridges need the longer barrel as the lose in FPS is noticeable but not the slower .308, 30.06, 35 Whelen, etc. The faster the bullet, the bigger the drop in FPS by way of Barrel length. Here's some samples from Lymans:
The average loss for the .270 Win./130 grain bullet was 37 fps per inch.
The average loss for the .270 Win./150 grain bullet was 32 fps per inch.
The average loss for the .300 Sav./180 grain bullet was 17 fps per inch.
The average loss for the .30-06/180 grain bullet was 15 fps per inch.
The average loss for the .35 Rem./200 grain bullet was 11 fps per inch.
By way of conclusion of testing, Lyman techs said "The rule of thumb is that high speed, high pressure cartridges shed more speed in short barrels than do the low speed, large bore types." My response is "Gee, no kidding"
By way of triggers, can't help you, I like mine the way it is so I have no intention of changing it. I have heard wonderful things about the Timney's if that helps. As far as accuracy goes, mine can clover leaf at 100 yards using the irons, it can far out shoot my capabilities.
Lucas, I have no idea what this means "IMHO, the LR-308 is not the rifle for hunting. I would choose a bolt gun in .308 like a model 700. I have an LR-308 and while it is fun to shoot, it is overkill for hunting." Sounds a bit fuddish but an accurate semi will walk all over a bolt on so many levels for hunting. Maybe if you mean in an extream environment like sub zero where you can use the bolt as leverage to clear a frozen action. Other than that, I'll have to disagree, IMHO.
Yes, chrome-lined barrels and chambers will help on wear and are more corrosion resistant, reduces failures due to sloppy house keeping. I wouldn't sweat that, as none of us can afford to burn out a .308 barrel right now. There really is no right way to break in a barrel. There are a lot of wrong ways. First thing when and if you get any firearm is clean it. Do not clean it like you see in the movies, more firearms get screwed up by cleaning than use. Internally, wipe it down dry first with a nice soft cloth, then use a bore snake to clean the barrel. If you need to, a little hops 9 on a patch. Always go from the chamber end if possible, this will protect the crown (the crown is the lip where the end of the barrel flows into the bore). I use Q-tips and soft tooth brushes for hard to reach areas. Finish it off with a light lube (CLP, gun oil, etc, your choice) inside and out. Don't sop the wood (if wood) with gun oil, it's not a wood oil. I mention all this as it is important for your break-in and here's how you do it. Clean gun, wipe off any excess oils, inside, outside before going to the range (lots of reasons for this). Load up no more than 3-5 rounds at a time to zero. Zero the rifle in 3-5 round increments and allow the barrel to cool in between firings. Once it's zeroed. Clean it, again, gentle, not white glove. Enjoy your gun. The key is, 3-5 rounds and let the barrel cool off. Fastest way to burn it out is to abuse it unnessasarly. I do own a bunch of high caps but normally, I run 5 round groups, spot the shots, yak a bit with buddies while barrel cools, fire again.
Kenny 474, fire away if I left something out.
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