.45 acp carbine build, advice Is welcomed

L
Shars has the tools pretty cheap you know...

Unless you just wanted to be able to post that you got staked in the rear... [rofl2]
I'm trying to build this for no money . I'm still looking around 100$ . I'm gonna wind my own springs for the free ar15 trigger I'm getting .
I'm building it around the tooling I got lol .
 
Last edited:
Ben,

I haven't yet read all 4 pages but in looking at your bolt see an easily fixed design flaw.

The bolt's large diameter will require that the mag be positioned too far down to feed the round into the chamber. Getting the round up high is especially important with something short and fat like the .45.

The solution is easy. Mill a flat on the bottom of the bolt that will allow the bolt to ride over the mag with it up high where it needs to be.

Don

p.s. Let me know when you want to go to MRA, I'm pretty much available any evening.
 
Just grind a single point cutter from HSS they work better for lower speed lathes anyway. For your use (holding the front handguard it may work ok. (as long as the front of the handguard is supported) freefloat I suspect you will peel the threads off. Is the trunnion press in on the tube? You can use drive rivets like the Sten. (I have a few boxes and can send you some) #6 in 1/4" and 5/16"

as for the feeding I suspect you will have to mill the bolt like I did on the K.
 
yqu4a3u4.jpg

Yup I'm waiting till I get a mag to cut that stuff. The flat on it now is just so I can index it quick.

So I'll Clearance the mag.
Then I'm going to shorten the bolt up
 
ry5uqa6e.jpg

qaqenu3e.jpg

Got my fcg pocket finished cut . And trigger slot cut.
I mite just have a friend drill the pin and safety holes on a CNC for me.
I'll probably mill extra metal off the out shed to make it look fancy once I figure out a few more things.
 
Last edited:
make sure the sear functions correctly. Squeeze the trigger and hold it back then reset the hammer holding it back, and then release the trigger. the sear should catch the hammer and then release it to the trigger. then you can fire normally.
 
y7uberar.jpg

Made the step so the safety would be in the right spot and have clearance to rotate.

4abeqe2y.jpg


Also did the detent hole. Forgot the saftey at home so I'll know tonight if it works .

Placing order for the barrel and tube for the receiver think next week or so .
 
Last edited:
ehevyra9.jpg

End cap started . I need to figure out how to retain it so I can field strip it.
4ahuqagy.jpg

Think its a good fit :)

8utebavy.jpg

Front truinnion a good press fit.
I might try the drive pins or Dutch pinning it on the front .

So now I need to get my hands on a mag so I can't get the bolt finished up . Then just a matter of figuring out the stock and grip.
 
Last edited:
esa9upyn.jpg

uvyby9eb.jpg

Trying to figure out ow long to make the tube .... No idea on this one .
I might be able to make a bull pup if it's short enough so the mag isn't so far forwards.

y9apapum.jpg

gagyde4e.jpg


Spring loaded firing pin. Figure it will stop a slam fire.
I need to drill the cross pin in the bolt and make a grove in the firing pin still.

Drill hole for guide rod / spring . Any one got a spare ak recoil spring :) ...
Clearance cut for mag, hammer and blade style extractor .
then the bolt will be done.
 
Last edited:
Not sure the size on the FP, but you want to keep it small where it goes though the bolt face. otherwise you will get blown primers and brass flow into the hole. a few guys on WG have had this issue. I have been very careful to keep the FP size down (I generally use ar fp) and the hole to ar specs and not had a problem.
 
Not sure the size on the FP, but you want to keep it small where it goes though the bolt face. otherwise you will get blown primers and brass flow into the hole. a few guys on WG have had this issue. I have been very careful to keep the FP size down (I generally use ar fp) and the hole to ar specs and not had a problem.

I'm not to worried about the firing pin size . I know the big thing is how far it sticks out.
I had a drill bit brake on me so it's a tad bigger then I wanted but if I have problems like you said I can press a collar into it . To make the head smaller or swap in a sleeve and do the ar15 pin. Wanted to try making as much as I could.

Got those drive rivets today btw.


Any advice on how long to make the tube? Kinda fuzzy on this one. Figure it has to go back enough to clear the mag and reset the trigger....
Could I get away with making it short buy using foam between it and the end cap?
 
Last edited:
Well the quick and easy answer is to look at successful designs and get an idea on the size from them. I have been putting buffers in to keep from trashing my recoil springs too quickly (from over compression) so that adds 2" (or uses it up )
 
Back
Top Bottom