MaverickNH
NES Member
I just got a WhamBam Flexible Build System - Beaker said it works great on his 3D printer. I had been using Avery adhesion sheets most recently.
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3D printing
- Thread starter NH Phantom
- Start date
The biggest issue I know of is that the wires are tinned and in a terminal block, that's apparently a big nono. Should put them in crimps. Besides that, nothing else is a known fire hazard... But I would personally keep it away from the powder
well, most of smart switches in the walls use same block, and nothing happens.
i took it all apart today and looked at the board. they used a hot glue gun on all the signal wires, seems to be solid. the wires are all encased into the shell and zip tied to the frame, so nothing really moves there. i enhanced that, to make sure nothing moves. solid wires seem to be sitting well as is.
i can get crimps for the thick ones, but not sure how necessary that is, as nothing there moves.
ender 3 v2 i have has no xt60 connectors, and hot bed contact is also soldered in. so it looks, at a first glance, pretty well made.
out of precaution i will keep using it during a day, as i will never really need, i think, to run it all night. last night i printed combo of filament holder and the braket projects, so it went over 13 hours and completed fine.
it would be also interesting to know if that info of those units getting on fire is anecdotal or factual, and if those v2 models ever had it or not. as, from what i can see with my own eyes - it seems to be built solid enough, by modeling standards.
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pastera
NES Member
Early 8-bit boards didn't have thermal runaway turned on so if a thermistor failed or disconnected it would turn the heat on 100% and stay on.So, I started reading about it - as I left it running overnight ( it still runs) and it runs in a reloading room with quite an amount of powder on a wooden bench. Reading about those ender 3 units catching fire.
If anyone researched that - I just started looking at forums and Reddit- how paranoid should I be about it?
And if it burns - how much actual fire will it be there, it does not look like a lot to catch fire in it except of that filament, that is of course quite flammable.
Just do not want to blow up the house, you know.
If you have a 32bit board thermal protection should be on NY default
I build my own firmware so I don't know exactly which firmware versions didn't have protection.
It's not an issue with the blocks, but with tinned wires. Solder is compressible, so in a terminal block under screw pressure, the tinned ends will slowly compress, lose contact and then arc. There are many cases of the terminal block melting or charred inside an Ender 3 or similar printer. The wires don't need to move for it to happen. So the recommended practice is to crimp the wire ends.
did you yourself do it?
i just spent a bit of time - as i have plenty of the components, that connector on the top right was not an issue - i found matching crimp pins for that wire gauge, got it done easy.
those charred ones below are a challenge. the pins that accept the gauge of the wires creality used in there do not fit into the connector they put on the board.
and i am not a fan to solder such wires on a side or trim the gauge of the wire to fit only a part of it into the pin slot. so for now i cut off the soldered end, then made a solder blob at the end of the wire only and tightened it into the slot in such a way so screw presses into the wire section with no solder. i think it will be pretty fine, but, will see later about it, may be.
i do not think i have pins with less gauge that would fit into that slot and at same time be reliably soldered to the wire. quite a lousy design there, not sure why they used such a lousy connector on a wire of such gauge.
As I've said before, it is really easy for this hobby to pivot away from "Making and printing things" over to "Futzing about trying to get the printer to run"
So apparently the popular fix is to solder wire directly to the MOSFET, bypassing the connector on the board. Or better yet, add a separate high-amp MOSFET.
We did this Kayak project six years ago, using 3D printed parts where appropriate.
View: https://youtu.be/FIEzCld74ec
looks like a rather too much effort.
as of soldering such wires directly - not on that board, that is a really bad idea. i think, really, when the bolt is pressed into a section of that wire of such gouge with no solder there and it is all wrapped around the bolt - nothing will happen there. i would still prefer to have a solid copper pin there, but, do not think it is an imminent danger of any sort.
swapping out whole mosfet - doable, but, damn, too much effort over nothing, i think. my guess would be - most of those arced charred connections were due to the fact that no one ever torqued those wires to begin with properly, so it was loose to begin with.
i will give it a month, then will open and check the torque. and will use a fireproof enclosure around it anyway.
i still do dislike the fact that they used such a flimsy one on such a wire, it seems like a definite lack of a proper design. i wonder what amperage goes there, really?
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so, i keep reading about it - the hot bed is apparently a lousy 160W thing, it means a 13-14A max on 12v feed. they got a way too big wires there for a mere 14A, but, ok.
an ongoing heat uses 9W. so the only way for this thing to burn i guess is on older boards with no runaway heat protection, so it maxes out mosfet. hmm.
well, an interesting weak point, anyway.
a lousy thing - in comparison, a racing drone draws 120A on the 4S (12v) power at full throttle, using 35-40A ESCs per line. and uses same gouge or less gauge wires than on this printer.
so, a question to the local crowd here - what did YOU do to those connectors on your boards? anything? nothing?
or something else?
an ongoing heat uses 9W. so the only way for this thing to burn i guess is on older boards with no runaway heat protection, so it maxes out mosfet. hmm.
well, an interesting weak point, anyway.
a lousy thing - in comparison, a racing drone draws 120A on the 4S (12v) power at full throttle, using 35-40A ESCs per line. and uses same gouge or less gauge wires than on this printer.
so, a question to the local crowd here - what did YOU do to those connectors on your boards? anything? nothing?
or something else?
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38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
It took my pea brain about an hour to modify a common M&P 15-22 magazine assist button (for the 10 round limit 25 body mags) to add a radius so they’re not so sharp on the fingers.
Let me guess there’s a cura setting to add a chamfer to your prints? My brain is remembering something like that now.
Well I like the radius anyway.
Modified design so I should be able to sell them too right?
Oriented the wrong way up to show detail.
Let me guess there’s a cura setting to add a chamfer to your prints? My brain is remembering something like that now.
Well I like the radius anyway.
Modified design so I should be able to sell them too right?
Oriented the wrong way up to show detail.
These are my crimps from when I upgraded my board to a BTT silent one. The PSU wires at 16g and the bed heater are 14g... Makes no sense but it is what it is.
Verified with my stock 4.2.2 board, it will take 14g crimps without issues.
ok, it is my board, pins i tried to use - just checked, were 2.5mm, it did not go at all into that green shit.
well, will get back to it at some time, i guess. they used a ton of hot glue all around the board and cemented wires and board itself to the base, it would be a ton of pita to pry it out of there, so i could not get a good look.
found those exact ones on ebay - an another pointless piece of crap, actually 400 pieces of crap, for $9, when i need only 2.
we used to have an excellent local hardware store that used to stock stuff like that, it died like a 6 or 7 years ago.
F#CK! it was 15 years ago. time flies, damn it.
it was convenient to be able to get such stuff.
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it really makes me wonder - i still see shitload of chinese crap there, those connectors they sell for $3 with FREE shipping from china.
my kid just had to ship a small box - 4x4x4 to somebody in AZ, a small gizmo he sold privately. the cheapest fare from USPS was $9.
how the hell this chinesium gets shipped for $3 and it is still profitable? is there a loophole somewhere for extra cheap usps fares? a what used to cost $3 to ship before is now $9 and i see no workarounds, really.
to get back on topic - i also bought this enclosure, will see if it`s too ugly to be kept or not. i am not kidding about fire, i had lithium burn - thankfully outside twice, when it burns, it burns well. so, i respect electrical fires very much.
Amazon product ASIN B08D99LSQFView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D99LSQF
my kid just had to ship a small box - 4x4x4 to somebody in AZ, a small gizmo he sold privately. the cheapest fare from USPS was $9.
how the hell this chinesium gets shipped for $3 and it is still profitable? is there a loophole somewhere for extra cheap usps fares? a what used to cost $3 to ship before is now $9 and i see no workarounds, really.
to get back on topic - i also bought this enclosure, will see if it`s too ugly to be kept or not. i am not kidding about fire, i had lithium burn - thankfully outside twice, when it burns, it burns well. so, i respect electrical fires very much.
Amazon product ASIN B08D99LSQFView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D99LSQF
this is f#cking outrageous indeed, as i just posted a ton of small shit on ebay, and i know how i will be raped sideways by shipping rates there.
cockpitbob
NES Member
Been using this for years on a glass bed. Windex does a good job of removing it.It likely will but why spend the money
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Yes, an international postal treaty that sets rates for international shipping and gives developing countries special low rates. The value to Chinese countries was estimated at $170 million in 2018.
Another reason I stick with my local makerspace -- usually has that sort of small component in a labeled bin in the appropriate shop.found those exact ones on ebay - an another pointless piece of crap, actually 400 pieces of crap, for $9, when i need only 2.
we used to have an excellent local hardware store that used to stock stuff like that, it died like a 6 or 7 years ago.
F#CK! it was 15 years ago. time flies, damn it.
it was convenient to be able to get such stuff.
And if it doesn't, I'll order that 400 piece set off eBay, use the 2 I need, and donate the remaining 398 to the makerspace.
Around here Rite Aid is the only place which stocks unscented Aquanet ($3.20 cheap!). I hate going in RiteAid, luckily one can is enough for years of printing.
i got to say, i am quite impressed with this little ender 3 thing.
i got this filament from ebay earlier in the week
PRILINE Superhard Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate 1KG 1.75 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1kg Spool,Black
and printed it with 260 deg max temp ender 3 does, 95deg on the bed - just the glass bed it came with, no spray no nothing - it did stick fine - it was a small model, of course, and printed it fine, at standard quality 0.2mm layer.
gotta experiment more with it. it takes it some effort to heat up the bed above 80 deg, can be well seen how slow it gets to gain more bed temp as it goes above 80.
cockpitbob
NES Member
I've been using the regular Priline carbon fiber polycarbonate for years. It's no miracle matetial but it seems pretty tough, definitely won't soften in the hot sun like PLA and prints easily. I was suprised how quickly it wore a brass nozzle. I need to try their Superhard as I've always wished the regular stuff was stiffer.
i got a hardened steel nozzle on a printer, it should last longer. how does this pristine pc cf stuff compares to the generic PLA+, say, like this one:
JAYO PLA+ 3D Printer Filament, PLA Plus Filament 1.75mm Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02mm, 1KG Spool Printing Material fit for FDM 3D Printers, PLA+ Blue
?some other reviews were saying this pristine pc is much softer than a 'real' one, which is supposed to be printed at, like, 300+ deg, etc. i do not see it to be soft, to be honest, from what i just printed, looks pretty fine to me. plus, if it prints ok at 260deg that is a max for me anyway - what else to ask for?
cockpitbob
NES Member
I don't know about the PLAplus, but regular PLA is stiffer than the Priline CF-Polycarb, might be stronger but is more brittle (much less tough) and will soften at around 150degF.
VetteGirlMA
NES Member
My printer has a similar problem with overheating due to the heater bed. What I did find is that adding a mosfet transistor just before the circuit allows the excess current to go back to the power supply. So I 3d printed a board mount and it sort of hangs off of the motherboard. In the bottom right corner of the inside of the power supply, the mosfet circuit is visible so the heated bed goes directly to that circuit and that circuit either routes to the motherboard or the power supply.
Some 3d printers have higher voltage heated beds and they won't have the same problem. Now with the mosfet I can let it print for days on end with no problems. I also added gcode in my slicer. There's an option to add custom gcode at the end of every job, so I have the heater turned off and the steppers retracted and the bed sticks out to make pulling the part easier. You'd have to look and see what the gcode would look like for a specific printer. This is what I added for mine in Cura, the slicer I use:
; -- END GCODE --
M104 S0 ;set extruder temperature to zero (turned off)
M140 S0 ; turn off bed heater
G91 ;set to relative positioning
G1 E-20 F300 ;retract the filament a bit to release some of the pressure
G1 Z10 ;move extruder up 10 mm
G90 ;set to absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y180 F1200 ;expose the platform
M84 ;turn off steppers
how did it manifest itself? was it stopping printing during the job?
essentially i am asking here - how to diagnose this issue and what are the typical signs of it? mine turns in cooling fan over the board may be 3/4 into the bed heating cycle, and the pre-printing the pre-printing code i have there has separate steps to heat up the bed and nozzle, it is not doing it simultaneously.
as i understand, once it reaches the temp - the power draw should drop down considerably there?
btw, looking at the picture - it does not look like you used those ferrules on the wire tips? and all is fine so far?
Evtide
NES Member
For you printer guys with Sig P365's, this mag loader is an easy print and works really well:
www.thingiverse.com
Sig Sauer P365 9mm Speed Loader by th1nkp0l
The Sig Sauer P365 9mm pistol has a notoriously stiff magazine spring, so a speed loader is a handy addition to your range bag. Insert the first round as usual, then use this loader to save your fingers for the remainder. Note that the photos are of an old design. Nothing has changed...
www.thingiverse.com
VetteGirlMA
NES Member
No problems at all. I did go with a larger diameter copper wire for the work. I forget the gage off the top of my head but I used the recommendation and found something a slightly lower gage. There's a lot of current in that heater circuit by the way. Leave it to the Chinese to peddle the problem onto the buyer lol.
