2020 Cast Bullet Signup Thread

pastera

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Took a few minutes to put together a SWAG on costs for a controller -
funny thing is that I looked up the RCBS and Lyman melt pots and they are using the same Chinese PID controllers


My cost for small quantities would be about $65/ea without adding for wear on tooling to cut the panels and little stuff like a couple of wire nuts.
Could probably support a $100 price so that there would be some extra for repairs/failures and my time.

I need to do some tests to see if the enclosure can support the expected power levels (~1000w) without fan cooling.

Anyone who wants to build there own can build one into an old ATX power supply case pretty cheap if you don't care about having a hard wired thermocouple probe.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PID-REX-C1...-K-Thermocouple-Heat-Sink-Kit-USA/12433223055

View: https://www.amazon.com/YaeCCC-170mmx130mmx80mm-Rectangle-Enclosure-Electric/dp/B07SW4RQBQ


View: https://www.amazon.com/Mecion-250V-125V-Rocker-Switch/dp/B07SQV7K6J


View: https://www.amazon.com/T-PRO-Thermocouple-Temperature-Sensors-Wire%EF%BC%8CStainless/dp/B0748DFJFN


View: https://www.amazon.com/FIRMERST-1875W-Prolife-Extension-Black/dp/B07H17L5WT


View: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Gland-Plastic-Waterproof-Adjustable/dp/B06Y5F6G67
 

mac1911

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Parts fit into an ATX PS - you can mount a 120v cooling fan or skip the fan and use the SSR heat sink (not shown)
Yes - there are two sockets. I didn't have a model for the PS connector and used an available socket in a fit of laziness

View attachment 396696

View attachment 396697
Damit I just tossed a old PC enclosure!
Would have worked fine for pid controller!
Cooling fan and heat sinks already installed! I well there will be others
 

pastera

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Damit I just tossed a old PC enclosure!
Would have worked fine for pid controller!
Cooling fan and heat sinks already installed! I well there will be others
I have ATX supply cases
The fan needs to be 120 Vac - the fans in the case are 12Vdc
For a Lee pot I don't think the fan is necessary if it is only running a Lee pot at 700 watts max
 

mac1911

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I have ATX supply cases
The fan needs to be 120 Vac - the fans in the case are 12Vdc
For a Lee pot I don't think the fan is necessary if it is only running a Lee pot at 700 watts max
i think the larger fan is 120? I know the small fan from the power pack thing was 12v
I know theres some fans at my moms left over from my dads stuff. They are small 120v fans that really crank. IiRC they where installed in the circuit breaker boards in the damp basements of the state buildings around beacon hill.
 

Broccoli Iglesias

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Took a few minutes to put together a SWAG on costs for a controller -
funny thing is that I looked up the RCBS and Lyman melt pots and they are using the same Chinese PID controllers


My cost for small quantities would be about $65/ea without adding for wear on tooling to cut the panels and little stuff like a couple of wire nuts.
Could probably support a $100 price so that there would be some extra for repairs/failures and my time.

I need to do some tests to see if the enclosure can support the expected power levels (~1000w) without fan cooling.

Anyone who wants to build there own can build one into an old ATX power supply case pretty cheap if you don't care about having a hard wired thermocouple probe.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PID-REX-C1...-K-Thermocouple-Heat-Sink-Kit-USA/12433223055

View: https://www.amazon.com/YaeCCC-170mmx130mmx80mm-Rectangle-Enclosure-Electric/dp/B07SW4RQBQ


View: https://www.amazon.com/Mecion-250V-125V-Rocker-Switch/dp/B07SQV7K6J


View: https://www.amazon.com/T-PRO-Thermocouple-Temperature-Sensors-Wire%EF%BC%8CStainless/dp/B0748DFJFN


View: https://www.amazon.com/FIRMERST-1875W-Prolife-Extension-Black/dp/B07H17L5WT


View: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Gland-Plastic-Waterproof-Adjustable/dp/B06Y5F6G67
Very nice man. I have a pro melt 2, but I still want a controller to double check.
 

pastera

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Very nice man. I have a pro melt 2, but I still want a controller to double check.
So you have a pot with a built-in PID and you want to control it with a PID?

Or do you have the old version with a mechanical thermostat?

You don't want to plug an electronic controller into an SSR - will do bad things to the electronics.
 

Broccoli Iglesias

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So you have a pot with a built-in PID and you want to control it with a PID?

Or do you have the old version with a mechanical thermostat?

You don't want to plug an electronic controller into an SSR - will do bad things to the electronics.
I have the new one with the PID. I want a PID for 2 reasons:

1. I dont trust the RCBS PID. - I used a thermometer before and had different readings. Maybe the thermometer was crap.

2. I want to use it for other, smaller pots I have.

I might also order a magma master pot. I probably should have purchased that instead of the RCBS.
 

pastera

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The PID controller is the same so if your pot isn't holding a steady temperature the thermocouple needs to be relocated in order to get a better thermal coupling. Also could be a poor tune - you should be able to retune the controller.

Switching power supplies don't like the noise generated by a Solid State Relay - don't series them.

A thermocouple meter is pretty cheap and even the cheap ones are close enough for our purposes
 
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Took a few minutes to put together a SWAG on costs for a controller -
funny thing is that I looked up the RCBS and Lyman melt pots and they are using the same Chinese PID controllers


My cost for small quantities would be about $65/ea without adding for wear on tooling to cut the panels and little stuff like a couple of wire nuts.
Could probably support a $100 price so that there would be some extra for repairs/failures and my time.

I need to do some tests to see if the enclosure can support the expected power levels (~1000w) without fan cooling.

Anyone who wants to build there own can build one into an old ATX power supply case pretty cheap if you don't care about having a hard wired thermocouple probe.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PID-REX-C1...-K-Thermocouple-Heat-Sink-Kit-USA/12433223055

View: https://www.amazon.com/YaeCCC-170mmx130mmx80mm-Rectangle-Enclosure-Electric/dp/B07SW4RQBQ


View: https://www.amazon.com/Mecion-250V-125V-Rocker-Switch/dp/B07SQV7K6J


View: https://www.amazon.com/T-PRO-Thermocouple-Temperature-Sensors-Wire%EF%BC%8CStainless/dp/B0748DFJFN


View: https://www.amazon.com/FIRMERST-1875W-Prolife-Extension-Black/dp/B07H17L5WT


View: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Gland-Plastic-Waterproof-Adjustable/dp/B06Y5F6G67
Thank you for your effort on this , would you have a diagram or schematic on these you could put up
 

mac1911

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@pastera ... this is why I dont trust the RCBS.

The lead is already melted, the thermoter says almost 700. The pot is under 650.

The thermometer has been sitting inside a box in a barn for 3 years, so maybe the thermometer is bad. I will order a new one and triple check.

View attachment 398997
I think the =/- on the lyman dial thermometer is probably on the lines of 30' or so. also could the placement of the probe for the digital scale have a 30-50' swing vs the placement of the dial thermo?
I been using my lynam dial thermo for years and it seems to be darn close. borrowed the lyman digital thermo and it was reading a little hotter than the dial? I trust the spring more than the electronics... My only use for a PID would be to maintain the temp through the casting session.
 

Michael J. Spangler

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@pastera ... this is why I dont trust the RCBS.

The lead is already melted, the thermoter says almost 700. The pot is under 650.

The thermometer has been sitting inside a box in a barn for 3 years, so maybe the thermometer is bad. I will order a new one and triple check.

View attachment 398997
Test the thermometer in boiling water. Should be 212
 

Broccoli Iglesias

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Are you ladle pouring or bottom pouring?
Bottom. The mold is heavy enough, if I have to hold it longer and higher, I will be lucky if I can cast 100.

I used to do ladle, everyone says it is better for the big bullets. I haven't run into any issues with bottom puring. I do throw a few more away, but I go faster.

Its a nice workout.
 

Michael J. Spangler

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Bottom. The mold is heavy enough, if I have to hold it longer and higher, I will be lucky if I can cast 100.

I used to do ladle, everyone says it is better for the big bullets. I haven't run into any issues with bottom puring. I do throw a few more away, but I go faster.

Its a nice workout.
Got it. I always found better results with a ladle. I can get good results with a bottom pout but last time I weighed my 535 grain Postels they were scary consistent. Like 1.5 grain variance from bullet to bullet IIRC
 

Broccoli Iglesias

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Got it. I always found better results with a ladle. I can get good results with a bottom pout but last time I weighed my 535 grain Postels they were scary consistent. Like 1.5 grain variance from bullet to bullet IIRC
I was going to call it a day and decided to ladle pour a few 535. 200 or so.

They look great. Maybe I will start ladle pouring for those again.

20201012_150724.jpg
 

Michael J. Spangler

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I was going to call it a day and decided to ladle pour a few 535. 200 or so.

They look great. Maybe I will start ladle pouring for those again.

View attachment 399088
Yeah they look nicer than the bottom pour. I don’t mind ladle pouring with the big guys. It keeps me moving a little slower which helps from over heating the mould.
I’ll usually toss another big mould in there like a 260 grain 44 or something to cast in between the 535s
 

mac1911

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Test the thermometer in boiling water. Should be 212
I doubt the lyman dial thermometer is any where close to accurate on the lower range, you could probably put it in a oven at 400' and see what it says. I have berried the needle on mine so I would think the whole unit could handle 400? I would let it cool inside the oven though . just in case

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjPdOp4PB24


my meter is berried in the shed , im sure you could calibrate it by loosening the dial from the shaft by the nut on the back
 
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pastera

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Parts fit into an ATX PS - you can mount a 120v cooling fan or skip the fan and use the SSR heat sink (not shown)
Yes - there are two sockets. I didn't have a model for the PS connector and used an available socket in a fit of laziness

View attachment 396696

View attachment 396697
PDF file should be a 1:1 to an ATX case
Cutout and wood glue to the top cover. Once dry just cut to lines and drill holes
I marked the three holes in the back but you will only need two. Drilling all three gives the option to use the heatsink or a fan.
I didn't add holes for the power cord - drill holes for strain relief glands or route through the existing power inlet hole and wire tie in place

Will reply to this post with a wiring diagram
 

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pastera

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PDF file should be a 1:1 to an ATX case
Cutout and wood glue to the top cover. Once dry just cut to lines and drill holes
I marked the three holes in the back but you will only need two. Drilling all three gives the option to use the heatsink or a fan.
I didn't add holes for the power cord - drill holes for strain relief glands or route through the existing power inlet hole and wire tie in place

Will reply to this post with a wiring diagram
I thought a picture would be better than a schematic - I'm bad at pictorials but this one is pretty simple
Wiring should be 12 or 14AWG for the power wires. The wires connecting the SSR to the PID carry very little current so can be 24awg (but larger won't hurt)

A small amount of thermal compound (heatsink grease) should be applied to the SSR before mounting - by small amount I mean that it should be applied thin enough to be semi transparent.

diagram.PNG
 

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Broccoli Iglesias

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Those are beautiful. Did you smelt that alloy or is that bought? If bought, from where and how much?
It is 20:1
I buy from Buffalo Arms.
I forget how much I paid, last time I ordered like 200# around a year ago. It might have been around $2.3 - 2.6. I remember it was the cheapest around.

I just checked, they are at $2.49.

I dont even flux this anymore. Their stuff is very clean. The poor mail man hates it when I order, but its only once per year. And I blame my girl, it is stuff for "crafts". [rofl]

If anyone wants we can do a group buy, I am IN.
 

Artie

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It is 20:1
I buy from Buffalo Arms.
I forget how much I paid, last time I ordered like 200# around a year ago. It might have been around $2.3 - 2.6. I remember it was the cheapest around.

I just checked, they are at $2.49.

I dont even flux this anymore. Their stuff is very clean. The poor mail man hates it when I order, but its only once per year. And I blame my girl, it is stuff for "crafts". [rofl]

If anyone wants we can do a group buy, I am IN.
My 20:1 doesn't look like that:(
Depending on the logistics, I would get in on a GB
 

yanquidog

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It is 20:1
I buy from Buffalo Arms.
I forget how much I paid, last time I ordered like 200# around a year ago. It might have been around $2.3 - 2.6. I remember it was the cheapest around.

I just checked, they are at $2.49.

I dont even flux this anymore. Their stuff is very clean. The poor mail man hates it when I order, but its only once per year. And I blame my girl, it is stuff for "crafts". [rofl]

If anyone wants we can do a group buy, I am IN.
If this GB should take off, I’m IN as well
 

pinebrother1

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Took a few minutes to put together a SWAG on costs for a controller -
funny thing is that I looked up the RCBS and Lyman melt pots and they are using the same Chinese PID controllers


My cost for small quantities would be about $65/ea without adding for wear on tooling to cut the panels and little stuff like a couple of wire nuts.
Could probably support a $100 price so that there would be some extra for repairs/failures and my time.

I need to do some tests to see if the enclosure can support the expected power levels (~1000w) without fan cooling.

Anyone who wants to build there own can build one into an old ATX power supply case pretty cheap if you don't care about having a hard wired thermocouple probe.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PID-REX-C1...-K-Thermocouple-Heat-Sink-Kit-USA/12433223055

View: https://www.amazon.com/YaeCCC-170mmx130mmx80mm-Rectangle-Enclosure-Electric/dp/B07SW4RQBQ


View: https://www.amazon.com/Mecion-250V-125V-Rocker-Switch/dp/B07SQV7K6J


View: https://www.amazon.com/T-PRO-Thermocouple-Temperature-Sensors-Wire%EF%BC%8CStainless/dp/B0748DFJFN


View: https://www.amazon.com/FIRMERST-1875W-Prolife-Extension-Black/dp/B07H17L5WT


View: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Gland-Plastic-Waterproof-Adjustable/dp/B06Y5F6G67
Are you taking orders yet for a completed unit?
 
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