We need to get our terminology straight here, a new trigger will not change the pull weight or cure creep. You will need to adjust it for pretravel if you want to eliminate slack. You can accomplish this by carefully fitting the trigger so it cannot move forward past the reset point by leaving enough material on to stop it. This assumes there is material on the frame to allow this and this assumes that you can find a trigger that is oversized in YOUR gun. I have had 3 S&W 1911s with trigger tracks ranging in size from .92 to .94. The Videki trigger linked is .92, Greider makes them up to .94 but you have to order directly from them and you can't get all styles.
Lastly, the Videki/Greider trigger does not have any pretravel adjustment. One gunsmith I know cuts the trigger bow out to add pretravel adjustment tabs. Another option is the Dlask trigger which comes with the tabs cut, you just have to bend them out.
If you have a 1st gen S&W 1911 you may already have a trigger that is adjustable for pretravel, take it out and photograph it. I just bought a S&W 1911 Target model from Howie and it had what appeared to be a Dlask trigger with pretravel and over travel adjustments. The pretravel adjustment was not set. I did not bother to set it as it doesn't bother me.
[EDIT]The trigger in that 1911 might no be Dlask, I thought it was made by him, but I checked and it isn't. Still has the tabs for pretravel adjustment.[/EDIT]