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1911 questions re: parts and service

Quiet

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As some of you know I became the proud new owner of a nice Colt 1911 Lightweight Commander.

I am thinking it is in need of a new recoil spring. I started to think this when wifey and I were investigating her ability to rack various guns, and the 1911 was easier than a 9mm. That seemed a little odd.

I did a little googlemeistering on it and found Ed Brown's FAQ page on recoil springs.
http://www.edbrown.com/gunsprings.htm

He suggests that you can get a good idea for what spring strength you should be using based on ejection distance. I'm usually not aware of where my brass is going so I watched... and I think it's still rolling today.


Then I had my first FTF with the slide failing to get the round more than halfway into battery. I looked carefully and determined that the gun could be cleaner, especially the ramp. So I cleaned the gun with same poor results. The rounds were WWB.


Since this is my EDC now, I need a new recoil spring today. I also would like to have the gun serviced (fully cleaned and all springs replaced) as soon as possible.

Questions
I assume that a 1911 spring is universal; do I just look at spring weight and how accurate are they?

Any idea how much cleaning and maintenance for a 1911 service costs?

Anybody do this kind of thing on a walk-in basis? I am so used to carrying this I don't want to go back to another gun.

Thanks guys.
 
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Wollf works well ...

Remember, light springs are ok on range-only guns, but full-strength springs for protection of life is recommended...

http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%20Pistols/COLT/1911%20GOV'T%20PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1#819

Service Paks

For use in:
Colt 1911, 1911A1, 1991, Gov't, MKIV, and Gold Cup series pistols. Please choose by caliber as magazine springs are caliber specific.

Type I - contains the following factory specification springs: factory weight recoil spring, firing pin spring (extra power), hammer spring, magazine catch spring, plunger tube spring, firing pin safety spring and sear spring.

TYPE II contains all of the springs described in the Type I pak above plus a magazine spring. The .45 Service Pak II contains a 10 pound extra power 7 round magazine spring. The 9mm and .38 Super Service Paks II contain a 7.5 Lb. extra power magazine spring.

SKU Description Price ($) Add to cart
69141 COLT 1911 .45, SERVICE PAK TYPE-I 17.99
69121 COLT 1911 SUPER .38/9MM SERVICE PAK TYPE-I 17.99

SKU Description Price ($) Add to cart
69142 COLT 1911 .45, SERVICE PAK TYPE-II 23.29
69122 COLT 1911 SUPER .38 SERVICE PAK TYPE-II 23.29
69132 COLT 1911 9MM SERVICE PAK TYPE-II
 
I just spoke to the former possessor of the gun to ask him where he used to buy parts-- he tells me he never changed a spring or went beyond a field strip either. He bought it new in the mid-80's and it has been sitting in his safe unseen for at least 22 years before he turned it over to me.
 
Have you cleaned it at all yet?? If you're unsure about the guts on it pick up a shop book for it. I have one from the 90s that is a great resource. It covers all versions produced until then. If you want to copy some pages from it, let me know.
 
Have you cleaned it at all yet?? If you're unsure about the guts on it pick up a shop book for it. I have one from the 90s that is a great resource. It covers all versions produced until then. If you want to copy some pages from it, let me know.

Yeah, I've pulled off the slide and cleaned it a few times. The spring does look intact, but I think it's time.

Do you think that book is available at Four Seasons? I've never been there and if they have a recoil spring I think it's a good excuse to take a drive.
 
You can find all the info you would ever need free online in either print or video form. Try it. Set aside a couple of hours, take it down to the last pin, clean it and/or replace worn parts, reassemble. It's a great way to get to know the gun and unless you're replacing parts that need to be custom fit then you can do it yourself without any really specialized tools.
 
I doubt they have a spring, AFIK they don't stock much for gun parts.

First Defense in Uxbridge stocks a decent amount of parts for 1911's. Call them and they may have a spring.

There are a bunch of local gunsmiths that do amazing work on 1911's. Greg Derr posts pictures or some of his work on this forum- looks great.
 
Before I bought any parts, I'd do a full detail strip/clean/lube. Put it back together, then see how it runs, you'll probably be surprised. I would do all of this before I carried it, as well. I'd rather carry a knife that I know will work than a gun that I knew I had problems with.

As for your wife's ability to rack it, what do you have for a 9mm? My wife can run my 1911 fairly well, but can't touch my SR9C, because she can't rack the slide.


Sent from my phone....which isn't really a phone anymore, it's a computer on my pocket
 
Never been to 4S before so no idea. I have a MFP here so I could just copy the pages you want. Plus let you see two 1911 builds.
 
Where are you located Quiet? I am on the South Shore and could show you how to properly tear it down, clean it, and do a few tweaks to improve it if desired.
 
just get a spring from wolff
http://www.gunsprings.com/
http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto Pistols/COLT/COMMANDER SERIES PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID2

commander springs are not the same size as government models



Probably cost you your man card

+1.

While you are there, get a new firing pin spring and new springs for all your mags. It shouldn't cost you more than $30 to replace all your springs, including 3 or 4 mag springs. Wolff used to include a new firing pin spring with every new recoil spring. I'm not sure if they still do that.

Just one clarification to Supermoto's post above. Commander RECOIL springs are not the same as Government models. But all the other springs are the safe, including magazine springs. (because they use the same magazines)

Several years ago, I bought a pristine lightweight Officers ACP. It was totally stock, which meant it rattled like an old chrysler convertible. It also didn't run.

I took it apart and cleaned it. That was kind of pointless, it was pretty pristine inside. I replaced the double recoil spring with a single wolf spring and replaced all the magazine springs with extra power springs. The gun now runs 100% with ball ammo. I haven't shot it lately, its going to be the subject of a ground up custom build some day. But its nice to know that it at least runs now.
 
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Haha Well, I've never torn down a 1911 beyond the field strip. So I haven't even qualified for the card yet.

It's not hard. I'm sure there are videos on youtube. As long as it is a Series 70, getting it back together isn't hard -- getting the pin through the disconnector and sear is fiddly, admittedly.
 
Never been to 4S before so no idea. I have a MFP here so I could just copy the pages you want. Plus let you see two 1911 builds.
Thank you for the offer! (Multi-Function Printer I assume? Are you talking scanning and email or fax or such?) I have found an exploded view schematic online, is the manual different?

Before I bought any parts, I'd do a full detail strip/clean/lube. Put it back together, then see how it runs, you'll probably be surprised. I would do all of this before I carried it, as well. I'd rather carry a knife that I know will work than a gun that I knew I had problems with.

As for your wife's ability to rack it, what do you have for a 9mm? My wife can run my 1911 fairly well, but can't touch my SR9C, because she can't rack the slide
I have put hundreds of rounds through it, it didn't start acting up until now.

Where are you located Quiet? I am on the South Shore and could show you how to properly tear it down, clean it, and do a few tweaks to improve it if desired.
I am in Metrowest. That's a really nice offer! I will certainly keep it in mind. How patient are you? lol

No. You can get the Kuhnhausen shop manuals from Brownells, or directly from the publisher, or from various vendors online. You won't regret buying these manuals.



You should. It's worth the trip.
I'll look at those sites.

+1.

While you are there, get a new firing pin spring and new springs for all your mags. It shouldn't cost you more than $30 to replace all your springs, including 3 or 4 mag springs. Wolff used to include a new firing pin spring with every new recoil spring. I'm not sure if they still do that.

Just one clarification to Supermoto's post above. Commander RECOIL springs are not the same as Government models. But all the other springs are the safe, including magazine springs. (because they use the same magazines)

Several years ago, I bought a pristine lightweight Officers ACP. It was totally stock, which meant it rattled like an old chrysler convertible. It also didn't run.

I took it apart and cleaned it. That was kind of pointless, it was pretty pristine inside. I replaced the double recoil spring with a single wolf spring and replaced all the magazine springs with extra power springs. The gun now runs 100% with ball ammo. I haven't shot it lately, its going to be the subject of a ground up custom build some day. But its nice to know that it at least runs now.
I have a spring kit in my cart now. It seems to have all the springs needed (I hope) and 1 mag spring. Will look at other springs. I also received a 10 rd mag and that spring feels quite weak. It's a mostly novelty though and I have no clue where else to find that spring, but I'll look around the site some more.

It's not hard. I'm sure there are videos on youtube. As long as it is a Series 70, getting it back together isn't hard -- getting the pin through the disconnector and sear is fiddly, admittedly.
It's a series 80 and I'm not very confident nor patient with small fiddly parts, especially ones that go Boyoyoyoyoing across the room never to be seen again.
 
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My 1911 is a series 80 (the other is WWII surplus). If you want to come up to Nashua, I can walk you through the take apart and reassemble of the pistol. We can then make copies of the pages from the manual (the Huhnhausen book from the early 90's) I have here. After that, we can have a pint or two of what's on tap... [smile]
 
if you don't want to mess with it I've heard that Mike Larocca, Larocca Gun Works in Worcester does a good job with 1911's but I have no personal experience.
 
Recently acquired a 1911 as well, a full size argentine colt. I was a bit Leary of a full tear down as well but it was very easy. I watched a YouTube video and had it apart in no time. There really aren't that many parts back there actually.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The 1911 is an easy gun to field strip, and there are no parts that will wear, or that you are in danger if damaging/wearing out, by removing as is the case with some guns (think split roll pins). Dsiassembly requires few tools - a screwdriver for the grip screws; one for the mag release latch (which is not a screw but looks like one); and something to push the firing pin and push out the ejector.

The only tricky part is if you have an unmodified Colt Gold Cup, in which case replacing the sear/sear depressor spring/sear depressor can be tricky (the later two parts are not in other 1911 models).

If you have invested in a 1911, learning how to detail strip the gun is a worthwhile undertaking.
 
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