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1911 project

W

wcmachine

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Started a new project. It's an SR1911 today I tried my hand at checkering 20 lines per inch on the front strap by hand. It took about 8 hours and I'm happy with the results. Just need to bead blast it and start work on the slide mods. More pick to come.
u8ava4y4.jpg
 
You going to just bead blast the frame, for it's final finish?

How far around does the checkering go?

Always enjoy seeing 1911 projects as they progress...
 
Yup, just bead blast, but I will probably sand or polish the side of the slide. The checkering goes right to the edge where the radius ends, the horizontal lines actually go past the end of the radius, like they would if it was machine cut.
 
Nice work. I have an SR1911 and plan on checkering the front strap this winter. Any recommendations on files, guides etc.?
 
I bought 20,30,40 and 50 LPI files. I started with the 30 but switched to the 20 because for my first time the 20 was easier to control and it is more forgiving if you make a mistake early on. I made a guide that clamps to the side of the frame to get the vertical lines stared. The other guide straddles the frame for establishing the horizontal lines. Brownells makes guides like this #100006290DK, I just copied what I saw in the catalog. Take your time and oil and clean the file and the work often, I used WD40 because it helps to flush way the chips. The biggest thing is that if you tired or frustrated, get up and walk away, come back to it later and start again. You will need some good gloves, I wore the thumbs out on three pairs.

jydamyha.jpg
 
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This thread is pissing me off , I need to get my barrel fitted to my custom 1911 but lack the funds and don't want to trash the barrel.


Try tap free 2 I find it works better then wd40 on stainless.
 
A while back I made a set of frame rail lowering bars. I took some standard 1/8 parallels and ground them to various thicknesses. Today I had a chance to try them on the SR. The first thing I noticed is that I was using to light of a hammer and the rails were not moving down just getting peened. The answer was to use an 8 ounce ball peen and not a 4 ounce. The rails need to be hit fairly hard and not just tapped a bunch of times. Because of this mistake the top of the rails kinda look like ass but it's really just a cosmetic issue when the slide is removed. Vertical play has been almost entirely removed. Side play will be removed when I squeeze the slide tomorrow.

uryreja8.jpg


uru2umy6.jpg
 
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After looking at all the commercial tools for squeezing the slide I decided to go a little different route. Since CNC machine vices are very ridged I figured I could use one of mine to do the squeezing. I decided to mill some hardened vice jaws with a carbide end mill into a shape I thought would work well. I used some brass shim stock to pad the jaws so the slides finish would not get damaged. This set up works very well but a lot of care is needed around the ejection port because it is very thin. I had read about cracking the slide from over tightening, this did not happen but I can see how it could. I basically tightened the jaws on the slide with a fair amount of pressure, let it sit for a few seconds and then struck the vice with a lead hammer to help it take a set. It worked well but a little to tight, some lapping took care of that.

vadanu4u.jpg


Once fitted to the frame I milled some cooling or just cool slots on the sides and a ball mill groove on the top. I then bead blasted the entire slide and sanded the sides to give it a contrast to the bead blast finish. Adjustable sights finish it off.

unegy2u8.jpg


yvebyne3.jpg


Next up hammer, sear work and final assembly.
 
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Stoned the hammer and sear, that removed most of the trigger creep and lightened the pull. Also installed a lower power leaf spring, solid full length guid rod, extended mag release extended slide stop and mag well. I will probably install a Briely barrel and bushing when funds allow.

ydedamaz.jpg
 
wcmachine said:
Stoned the hammer and sear, that removed most of the trigger creep and lightened the pull. Also installed a lower power leaf spring, solid full length guid rod, extended mag release extended slide stop and mag well. I will probably install a Briely barrel and bushing when funds allow.

ydedamaz.jpg
Click to expand...

That is beautiful. I had to quote your post, because something so nice should show up twice.
 
wcmachine said:
Stoned the hammer and sear, that removed most of the trigger creep and lightened the pull. Also installed a lower power leaf spring, solid full length guid rod, extended mag release extended slide stop and mag well. I will probably install a Briely barrel and bushing when funds allow.

ydedamaz.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks shweeet, but how does it shoot??
 
wcmachine said:
A while back I made a set of frame rail lowering bars. I took some standard 1/8 parallels and ground them to various thicknesses. Today I had a chance to try them on the SR. The first thing I noticed is that I was using to light of a hammer and the rails were not moving down just getting peened. The answer was to use an 8 ounce ball peen and not a 4 ounce. The rails need to be hit fairly hard and not just tapped a bunch of times. Because of this mistake the top of the rails kinda look like ass but it's really just a cosmetic issue when the slide is removed. Vertical play has been almost entirely removed. Side play will be removed when I squeeze the slide tomorrow.

uryreja8.jpg


uru2umy6.jpg
Click to expand...


Be careful. The frame is not all that strong in some areas adjacent to the rails. Excessive force could crack the frame. I use a light ball pein hammer with a polished face and a lot of time.

PS Nice checkering.
 
warwickben said:
I wish I could come hang out with you and learn from you :)

I planed to do some slide cuts on my 1911.
Click to expand...

Thanks but I'm just learning as I go. I've been a machinist for most of my adult life and I always figured gun smithing and machining go hand and hand. It's just a matter of learning how to properly apply the machining techniques to fire arm modification and repair. Do lots of reading and plan out what your going to do. An old machinist I worked with once told me "if it were easy, everyone would be doing it"
 
Way to incorporate your trade into your hobby! It came out incredible.

I'd be afraid it would be like when Homer Simpson put "speed holes" in his car.
 
I was able to get out and shoot it a bit this weekend. This target was at 50' and has a few mags in it shot off hand. This was at a back yard range and I did not have a convenient way of bench resting the pistol. I'm happy with it so far.

a7agatub.jpg
 
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Looks great! Squeezing the slide near the thumb safety cut out is tough, they can snap there. Also with lightening the slide, you will need to go with a heavier recoil spring if you plan on shooting the same loads before you lightened it. Too light a spring can cause excessive battering. 8 hours to checker is one reason we do it by machine now. It also comes out better. Keep up the good work.
 

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