Zero scope with laser only?

[Dmn0166]

After putting an offset rmr along side my trijicon accupower 1-4I’ve wanted a stronger magnification. 1x on the optic isn’t as important now that I have an rmr too.

I upgraded to the accupower 3-9 and it just arrived in the mail.

dilemma being I don’t have anywhere to shoot and zero this. But I do have a dbal on my rifle.

Is “co- witnessing”(if that’s the right term in this scenario) my new optic to my dbal which is currently zero’d sufficient? Or would you not trust it until you can shoot.

what’s your thoughts?

Derek

 

[cams]

I think it would ultimately depend on your zero and what distances. You can probably get close, but I’d rather not make that swap until I can get an actual zero reading firsthand.

 

[LuvDog]

It's probably where you would start anyway and would at the very least get you on paper.

 

[tuna]

Do you have a way to clamp the rifle?
Clamp it down, make sure the laser is hitting the aim point of the old scope,swap scopes without moving rifle (check by comparing dot on target), move aI point of new scope to laser.

This is a guess. I don’t know if it will actually work, but don’t see why not.

 

[HorizontalHunter]

After putting an offset rmr along side my trijicon accupower 1-4I’ve wanted a stronger magnification. 1x on the optic isn’t as important now that I have an rmr too.

I upgraded to the accupower 3-9 and it just arrived in the mail.

dilemma being I don’t have anywhere to shoot and zero this. But I do have a dbal on my rifle.

Is “co- witnessing”(if that’s the right term in this scenario) my new optic to my dbal which is currently zero’d sufficient? Or would you not trust it until you can shoot.

what’s your thoughts?

Derek

I wouldn’t trust it until I shot it. There are too many variables that can effect the POI.

I would hold off like Cams suggested. You would be taking an accurate rifle and making it an unknown until you can get to the range and see what the real POI is and there is no way to know when that will be.

Bob

 

[mac1911]

After putting an offset rmr along side my trijicon accupower 1-4I’ve wanted a stronger magnification. 1x on the optic isn’t as important now that I have an rmr too.

I upgraded to the accupower 3-9 and it just arrived in the mail.

dilemma being I don’t have anywhere to shoot and zero this. But I do have a dbal on my rifle.

Is “co- witnessing”(if that’s the right term in this scenario) my new optic to my dbal which is currently zero’d sufficient? Or would you not trust it until you can shoot.

what’s your thoughts?

Derek

I might be wrong but your “zero” may be different because of the height difference between the off set optics and the optics up top.

Why not just bore sight ?
Measure the center of bore to center of scope distance , cal of rifle and I can get you “close”

 

[Admin]

Go to a buddy's house and zero it the right way

 

[Wrench75]

Amazon product ASIN B06XHGQV21View: https://www.amazon.com/XAegis-Boresighter-Kit-Precision-Firearm-Sighter/dp/B06XHGQV21/ref=zg_bs_3307788011_24?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7MVPF0RZWKWBVFTMCRR0

 

[usp45ct]

Dumb question on my part and forgive me if you have answered it already but is the laser you are using a cartridge type laser that inserts in the barrel, or one that mounts on a rail?

The cartridge laser type will be better for zeroing...but not perfect. If you are trying to zero at 50 meters you would select a target 50 meters away and, with the laser on dial in the scope. Your rifle is probably on paper, depending on the paper size, with respect to point of aim vs point of impact. Not perfect though as there are tolerance on the brass which houses the laser as well as the laser being impervious to wind and gravity and a bullet would be affected by these.

A laser mounted on a side rail, key lock or Picatinny it doesn’t matter, will be only on paper most likely at whatever distance you pick to align the output of the laser to the reticle on the scope.

Things to remember. Make sure your scope turrets are I guess neutral before starting meaning there is no height or elevation dialed in...rarely is this a problem with a new scope, often with a new to you scope bought from someone else.

Also, what are you using it for? For me I like a 50 yard zero as the bullet passes zero again at 250 yds depending on bullet and load and a pretty flat trajectory in between. If it is for competition, I have seen some 25 yard zero.


Best answer here though is get to the range before you trust it. This will let you know about the torque on the screws and verify anything is loose.


Sorry for the length of the post.

 

[rocket500]

It won’t be good enough. A bore sighter will get you on paper but isn’t going to get you zeroed in.

 

[Soundwave]

I'm in the same boat. Range is closed and can't sight in new rifle. Had a barrel boresighter but it didn't seem to fit with muzzle device. Gonna try the bullet type.

 

[308rifleman]

It won’t be good enough. A bore sighter will get you on paper but isn’t going to get you zeroed in.

No substitute for fine-tuning with your go-to load. I take what is probably the simplest approach. Bench rifle. Remove bolt. Look through barrel at the target at 25 yards. Adjust scope so that what you see looking down the barrel is what your scope's crosshairs are on. This should get you on paper.

 

[teamRR]

The only ones I have a hard time sighting in are .22s - they drop a lot, and just generally with the mini mags I stock they aren't very accurate so you get a lot of false readings. With those I start at like 15 yards and will do multiple iterations until I am > 50, sometimes even ending up back off the paper and having to get closer to re baseline again.

With everything else, maybe I am just stupid lucky, but I can usually start at 50 yards and am on the paper already.

A bore sight is not expensive, gunsmiths often stock all sizes and can get you ballparked for a nominal fee, and btw we still had open indoor ranges in NH last I checked - not ideal in a 25 yard range or something, but you can get it close enough to get it on paper at 100 that way.

 

[cams]

The thing to remember here is your intended use at the moment. Obv since everything is closed you’re not just going plinking or a normal fun range day, so it’s only intended purpose right now for switching it out would be as self defense.

The purpose of the magnified glass is precision shots at distance, say, a random elbow or leg for example sticking out from behind cover.

Without a proper and confirmed zero you won’t get close to that shot.

Best solution for the moment is to stay with the confirmed zero you already have instead of losing that. Everything else can wait.

 

[moojpg2]

Doing that will zero your optic to whatever range your laser is zero'd to. I do it on pistols all the time. I adjust the laser to point of impact with my irons at 7 yds in my basement. It works every time.