• If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership  The benefits pay for the membership many times over.

Wolf .223

Joined
Jan 1, 2006
Messages
4,437
Likes
989
Location
North Shore
Feedback: 39 / 0 / 0
I have an excellent source for Wolf .223 ammunition. All indications are that this source will ship to MA. The prices are excellent. I am wondering if anyone has fired Wolf .223 lately? I have heard that the lacquered Wolf is pretty good from some people and that it sucks from others. I'll be shooting in AR type rifles. Any information would be appreciated.
 
I've been shooting the newer, polymer coated (dull gray cases) Wolf 62 grain 223. It goes bang, hits where I aim, and has not jammed my carbine.

I've put close to 300 rounds of that stuff through it so far, about 200 of that all in one go in training.
 
Wonder how it will perform in a Mini 14.
I bought some Brown Bear today from Dick's in Taunton, at $3 a box I couldn't pass it up. Its laquer coated and will probably gum up but I only got 3 boxes to try and have some blasting ammo.
 
Is it the M193 variation ? I like that ammo.semi clean and pretty accurate.

If it's the laquer cased shit,be prepeared to do a lot of cleaning. Anything over $3.00 for 20 is overpriced.

Good question.

My assumption was that the OP was asking about the steel-cased Russian-made Wolf and my initial report was made about that.

Wolf M193-spec is brass-cased and Serbian-made. It also very, very nice ammo. I shot about 60 rounds of it and liked it enough to pick up three battlepacks of Prvi Partizan M193 a few weeks ago. Prvi Partizan is who makes Wolf's M193.
 
ive dumped probity close to 4-5k rounds of wolf through m16s and ar15s over the past few years. i love the stuff. its dirty ammo, but not that much of a problem if you clean your gun. its defiantly good ammo for the money, perfect for practicing or just blasting.

ive fired ton of the new polymer coated stuff, and it is alot better than the lacquer coated stuff. i haven't had any problems with the new stuff running through any of the guns.
 
Another one here that has run thousands of Wolf thru my 2 ARs and ~300 rds thru a WA buddy's ARs with no problem whatsoever.

DO NOT use it in any tightly chambered AR, only in the mil-spec (i.e. sloppy) chambered guns.
 
Clarification: my source is for steel case polymer coated 62g. The at-your-door price looks to be about $176.00/1000.
 
Last edited:
Wonder how it will perform in a Mini 14.
I bought some Brown Bear today from Dick's in Taunton, at $3 a box I couldn't pass it up. Its laquer coated and will probably gum up but I only got 3 boxes to try and have some blasting ammo.

I use it im my mini14.

Works great.

I was tempted to get that brown bear... let me know how it works on yours.
 
Clarification: my source is for steel case polymer coated 62g. The at-your-door price looks to be about $176.00/1000.

I'd be interested. The place i buy mine just went up a bit... $195 per 1000. Still a good price for 1000 rounds of .223 IMO, and the guys gotta make a profit [wink]
 
I used some of the newer Wolf in my BM. I have seen FTE and failure to lock the bolt open on the last round. Seems that some of the rounds did not have enough bang to throw the bolt back all the way.
 
Success with Wolf ammo is pretty much a function of the individual rifle chamber. Some chambers will digest it all day long, some won't. I suggest that before you buy a pile of it that you check it for function in YOUR GUN. If it works you'll be happy and have a few extra bucks to spend. If not, I'd consider rebarreling your rifle to one that will digest it. It may be all you can get at some point in time.

Some say its under powered....I never found that to be true in my guns and I'm not overly concerned or anal with matters of "Terminal Ballistics" as some are.

Some say its inaccurate....I've found it fine for plinking. It's not match ammo nor is it marketed as such. If I can hit a can at 100yds, I could certainly hit anything six times as large with ease.

Some say that the steel casings will harm your gun....I say BS. Steel casings have been used for the better part of a century by many many countries including the US. Lots of those rifles and pistols are still around and being fired regularly. My guns were bought to be fired not as museum pieces. They get used and sometimes slightly abused....but they work. If they break, they get repaired just like any other tool I own.

Wolf used to be a "very economical" way to shoot but prices of it have risen just like that of brass cased ammo....but its still less expensive.
 
Success with Wolf ammo is pretty much a function of the individual rifle chamber. Some chambers will digest it all day long, some won't. I suggest that before you buy a pile of it that you check it for function in YOUR GUN. If it works you'll be happy and have a few extra bucks to spend.

Excelent point. I made sure I tried 100 rounds of it before I bought case [wink]

The only thing I had go wrong from that whole 100 rounds was 1 round was a dud. but as far as normal cycling, worked fine
 
Clarification: my source is for steel case polymer coated 62g. The at-your-door price looks to be about $176.00/1000.

Buy all of it. [grin]

That's the steel cased Wolf I was talking about and it rocks. Just lube your rifle up a little more if doing a heavy shooting session (500 + of Wolf) in one go.

By the way, the carbine I shoot my Wolf through is an LMT with a 5.56 NATO chamber. My other AR has a 223 Wylde chamber, which is as loose as the NATO chamber in most respects except freebore.

I second the motion of not shooting polymer coated Wolf through any tighter chamber, like 223 SAAMI.

If you don't know what chamber you have, shoot a box or two of steel-cased Wolf in a short amount of time and see if they stick in there or not when the rifle gets good and hot.
 
I have had bad experiences with Wolf steel case in my AR. A number of jams including one where I had to whack the butt against the ground to free the bolt to extract a fired case. I had 1000 rounds, and I have used it up and not ordered any more. At this point I don't plan to buy it any more. Superstitious? Maybe. But I have had no problems with the brass case stuff I have used, so it has to be something with the Wolf.
 
Last edited:
I had terrible problems with Wolf pistol ammo (both the old coated stuff and newer polymer stuff). Gave it up and won't go back.

Conversely, I have had NO problems with Wolf .223 in my ARs. Will continue to use it and have a largish stockpile of the old stuff to shoot.

Anything with a "target" chamber, will likely cause problems with Wolf.

If it doesn't work for your gun, by all means, don't use it. I don't doubt that some will and some won't have problems with it. I also usually clean my guns after each range session and this may make a difference as well.
 
Another one here that has run thousands of Wolf thru my 2 ARs and ~300 rds thru a WA buddy's ARs with no problem whatsoever.

DO NOT use it in any tightly chambered AR, only in the mil-spec (i.e. sloppy) chambered guns.


My dpms says mil spec. on all the parts lists.

.223/5.56 on the lower. Should be OK?

I clean my guns.
 
JRyan,

Is yours is a complete DPMS gun or is the upper a different mfr?

It's the upper that matters, that is where the chamber is located and thus determines if Wolf should work or not. So as long as the upper is mil-spec, Wolf should run just fine.
 
Last edited:
All this talk of chamber differences has got me wondering. I bought my new-to-me Bushmaster DCM 2 days before leaving for California so I haven't even shoot it yet. The Bushmaster site contains two references to the chamber on their "match" rifles. One says use .223, the other says they are a hybrid (like the Wylde of Rock River?) that can shoot either. Just not sure. I have a case of Wolf already for the Mini-14, and I'll be shooting better stuff in matches with the Bushmaster, but what if I just want to plink with the cheap stuff?

I'll fire off and email to Bushmaster when I'm back after the holidays, but maybe there are some Bushmaster DCM shooters out there.

thanks,
Chuck
 
Last edited:
JRyan,

Is yours is a complete DPMS gun or is the upper a different mfr?

It's the upper that matters, that is where the chamber is located and thus determines if Wolf should work or not. So as long as the upper is mil-spec, Wolf should run just fine.


Complete. each piece of it (from the DPMS website) says per mil spec.

thanks, never can be too careful.
 
Complete. each piece of it (from the DPMS website) says per mil spec.

Can't be mil spec with a 1/9 twist HBAR profile barrel made of 4140 Chrome-Moly steel. M16 Techincal Data Package requires a 1/7 twist barrel made of 4150 Chrome-Moly steel with a thin under the handguards profile.
 
Can't be mil spec with a 1/9 twist HBAR profile barrel made of 4140 Chrome-Moly steel. M16 Techincal Data Package requires a 1/7 twist barrel made of 4150 Chrome-Moly steel with a thin under the handguards profile.

Yep, I was thinking of this, my mistake:

Bolt & Carrier:

* 8620 steel bolt carrier, heat treated and plated per Mil Spec
* Phosphated steel bolt, heat treated and plated per Mil Spec

from the site.

Barrel does not say mil -spec. so I should then avoid Wolf/Brown Bear? guy at the shop said the Brown bear was no problem.

Barrel says:

Barrel:

* 16" Length
* 4140 Chrome-moly steel bull barrel
* 6 grooves, right-hand 1x9 twist, button rifled


this is the page I'm looking at:

http://www.dpmsinc.com/firearms/223/lopro_classic.aspx
 
Last edited:
I emailed DPMS to see what they say about it. Will post the official answer when it arrives.
 
Back
Top Bottom