Yup or make your own.
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What did you do in the reloading room recently?
- Thread starter DW357
- Start date
Yup or make your own.
Just got done depriming 400rnds of 9mm. Half are getting tumbled now. Spent the rest of the time dialing in my .40S&W dies. Talk about a pain in the ass.
For 30-06, and 308 yes, I did each inside the neck. The first couple of .223 batches I did as well. Last night I found once every 5-10 cases was enough to keep things running smoothly for .223.
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I looked at the Dillon lube but I couldn't tell if it would contaminate powder/primers. I was leery of not lubing the neck but based on my run last night, only 1 out of every 5-10 needs it, at least for me.
THIS seems like it would be a MAJOR time saver. I read something somewhere about Lanolin...
found it:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/305174_.html
wow...that does look simple! a breeze to source the ingredients as well.
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No need to warm it. The lanolin does not stay in solution. Just mix them together at like 10:1 or 12:1, and shake them up before use. One or two misty sprays for a gallon ziploc of pistol brass, a little bit more than that for rifle brass sizing. Let it evaporate for a few minutes before you dump it into the casefeeder.
It makes it easier to mix if you warm the lanolin IMO. I just heated up some water in a bowl then let the bottle of lanolin sit in it for 5 min or so to soften up.
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Don't worry about contamination.
Bulk lube
Size
Load
If you use too much lube you size and then tumble for 5 or 10 minutes to remove the lube before the rest of the loading begins.
I've done thousands and thousands of cases like this with no issues.
As far as the lanolin home made stuff. Make sure you get the tubes of lanolin from the pharmacy. The thin liquid stuff not the greasy stuff. Also you need 99% alcohol which you can get in the form of isoheet
1919FAN just made a batch of this stuff and you can't tell the difference side by side with the Dillon.
If it gets old and a little thick it will leave too much residue on the cases and need tumbling in between sizing and loading. That takes years to get to that point if stored in a proper container. That being said, an 8 oz spray bottle will last for years. A little goes a long way.
If it thickens up just add a little more alcohol.
Bulk lube
Size
Load
If you use too much lube you size and then tumble for 5 or 10 minutes to remove the lube before the rest of the loading begins.
I've done thousands and thousands of cases like this with no issues.
As far as the lanolin home made stuff. Make sure you get the tubes of lanolin from the pharmacy. The thin liquid stuff not the greasy stuff. Also you need 99% alcohol which you can get in the form of isoheet
1919FAN just made a batch of this stuff and you can't tell the difference side by side with the Dillon.
If it gets old and a little thick it will leave too much residue on the cases and need tumbling in between sizing and loading. That takes years to get to that point if stored in a proper container. That being said, an 8 oz spray bottle will last for years. A little goes a long way.
If it thickens up just add a little more alcohol.
Be wary of using too much, I put 50 cases in a block then spray one side ONCE, then the other side once, done. 45 degree angle so it gets them all evenly and yes a bit inside the necks (not a bad thing). I usually spray once into a trash can to make sure the bottle hasn't gummed up or anything, you don't want big gobs of the stuff landing anywhere, too much and it can dent cases or push a shoulder back further than you wanted.
A lot is not needed and it is possible to just run them w/o wiping it off at all if you get it right.
A lot is not needed and it is possible to just run them w/o wiping it off at all if you get it right.
Just got done sorting about 6,000 pieces of assorted brass by hand...45acp, 380acp, 9mm, fotay, .38sp, 357mag, 223, 308, 30-30...all stuff I've been collecting the past month or so. I gotta get me a separation system of some sort...damn! The worst is fotay vs 9mm vs 380acp.
headednorth
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Those sorting trays work pretty good. (Yikes! Up to $50.)
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=brass+sorting+trays
I look at those from time to time but I can't see where it would save me all that much time. They only separate so much. I can't see where brass like 380 and 9mm would separate out and I doubt you would have much luck separating 40's from that brass too. 38sp and 357 would fall through the same holes and I'm thinking 308 and 30-30 would do the same. I'd have to try one of those setups before I sprung $50 for one to find out if they actually save me time.
SJan
NES Member
They save lots of time.
Maybe I should give it a go. Thanks!
headednorth
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They sell a separate plate to sort the 380 from the 9mm. (which I dont have) Thats the biggest pain in the ass for me. 38 and 357 would be a challenge. I dont shoot much 38 so when I do, I toss it in the same box I brought it in to keep it separated. Never had any issues separating 40.
Usually I have a good ziplock freezer bag worth of brass to deal with after shooting. (mine and whatever is lying around from others) So not really all that much brass. I tend to sort when I get home or maybe the next day so I dont really end up with a ton of brass to do. I dont toss it in a bucket until its full and then sort. Not really all that hard to pick out the 308's or other calibers. The rifle calibers tend to stand out from the pistol calibers so I usually pick those out by hand. (308, 3006, etc)
I was surprised to see them at over $50. Think I paid $30-something a few years ago. Its not perfect, but even if there is some hand-sorting involved, at least it does a good 3/4's of the work for you.
Yeah...I just checked the Dillon catalog...about $39. I'll have to grab one the next time I'm in Riley's or Shooters Outpost...
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38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Cast some bullets with a new lee 356-120TC mould and wanted to try out the recipe for Ben's liquid lube
Coated half of them with one coat and the other half with two coats. Supposedly this stuff is a miracle lube.
Loaded 100 test rounds of 9mm 50 of each. Can't wait to see how they shoot.
Coated half of them with one coat and the other half with two coats. Supposedly this stuff is a miracle lube.
Loaded 100 test rounds of 9mm 50 of each. Can't wait to see how they shoot.
gerrycaruso
NES Member
I use those plates and they work well. They separate .40 from from 9mm and .45 quite quickly. It will not separate cases of the same diameter but you can buy a metal plate what will separate .380 from 9mm. I bought one and I think it's too slow.
Love that mold...well, not really in love, but it's a fine bullet.
I use it in .38 Special and .35 Remington as well as 9x19mm and 9x17mm (course, I only shoot .38 Special; just recently 9x19mm). It's one of the few molds I have in 6-cavity, so it makes for a worthwhile casting session. My lubrisizer is out of commission, so I suppose I should get into bullet coating...
...not that I make a habit of reloading aluminum and steel, but it can be done:
Regarding those brass separators, do they segregate berdan-primed from boxer-primed?
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KMM696
NES Member
This is awesome, but there's no way I'm going to build one. I'd like to know someone who has one, though.
[video=youtube_share;IzsxZnla_to]http://youtu.be/IzsxZnla_to[/video]
headednorth
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No, they just sort according to the outside diameter of the case. Tray has slots cut in it and sort of acts like a go no-go gauge.
Soooo... I loaded up a mix and match of .40 just to find out either my manual or calipers are wrong. OAL is off. Wahoo..
Started building an annealer. Under $100 from a YouTube video. Waiting on motor then I can mount drum and wire it.
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Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Started building an annealer. Under $100 from a YouTube video. Waiting on motor then I can mount drum and wire it.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Awesome! Will you be able to make different drums for each caliber, or will it be universal? I don't even need one yet, as literally all of my rifle brass is still once fired, but I like the idea of making my own 'auto-annealer' when the time comes. I haven't seen the YouTube video for that one yet. What kinda motor are you using? 110v? I think I can find a nice 12v geared low enough in the junkyard I work at to make something work.
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Do tell?
The drum is just a cake pan. Will at least work for 223 and 308.
https://youtu.be/k0xE-6bSwME
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https://youtu.be/k0xE-6bSwME
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
My manual stated max OAL was 1.135. So everything was sized to 1.130. You could load a max of two rounds into the mag and it would feed. Anything beyond that it would be stuck in the mag. Gen3 G22 with Gen4 10rnd mag.
That's ingenious! I may have to make one of those when I run out of once fired brass in 2025... Or when I go the 07 route and need it much sooner.
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Manuals typically give min, not max OAL. Reducing OAL increases pressure quickly = bad.
That said, 1.130 is well under max length for Fo-Tay. If they're not feeding in your mag I'm guessing your calipers are goofed.
peterk123
NES Member
200 rounds of 9mm using 5.1gr BE86 and 124 gr MBC coated cone bullets with an OAL of 1.145. Good way to kill a little time in the rain. Man, this weather is getting old.
