What did you do in the reloading room recently?

I loaded some 9mm in both Blue Bullets and Acme HiTek. Pretty crazy the difference in diameter between the two. I usually load plated and that's what my dies were setup for. I had to really open up the case mouth for the HiTek and almost back it all the way out for the blue bullets.

Never used Acme but I do like that Blue Bullets are 0.355". When I used Bayou and Ibejiheads (both 0.356" or 0.357" depending what you choose), I ran into the same thing you did.

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Got the go ahead to get a M1, so in preparation went and looked in my random pickups bin to see if I had any 30-06. Found probably 70 pieces but then a bunch of them turned out to be 270 win which looks pretty similar to me.

I think I may have some once fired (possibly cleaned too) HXP 30-06 brass if you need some. People are constantly selling 30-06 brass over on the CMP forums also.
 
I had to buy a special spreader for the powder drop, forget who makes it. Sean probably remembers.

The case mouth expander die for Dillon powder drops, made by Double Alpha acedemy/ Mr bullet feeder. Although not necessary in loading coated bullets, it does create a better shape case mouth to accept and seat bullets of any meteral. I use one while loading 9, 40 and 45
 
Got the go ahead to get a M1, so in preparation went and looked in my random pickups bin to see if I had any 30-06. Found probably 70 pieces but then a bunch of them turned out to be 270 win which looks pretty similar to me.

You could resize them and trim them a tad to .30-06 dimensions, as long as you don't depend on headstamps for identification. Going the other way makes for slightly short necks. Either that or swap them with someone seeking .270 brass.
I could accommodate you here, but it's not worth a trip down nor worth the postage (I don't shoot either caliber, although my neighbor has had me reload a few .270 Win.). Once you get the rifle, you could bring it along since the reloading bench and 100-meter range are about 50 yards apart.
 
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Finally got the range and tested a whole bunch of Blue Bullets 115g and Acme 124g coated bullets with Unique and TG. TG won out in the accuracy. Both shot very clean and the bore looks like new after about 300 rounds in my VP9. Not ever shooting 124 before it sure is nice having a subsonic round that's a little easier on the ears.
 
Made three more sets of 5 bullets in .45 ACP as part of my effort to determine the right load for my 1911. I now have loads from 5.4 to 6.4 grains that I can try out.

I saw one unexplained thing at I'm hoping people have an idea on (as I'd prefer not to have to gauge every round, when I make large quantities). Here's what happened. I created 5 rounds at 6.0 grains, and after, checked the OAL, and checked in the case gauge. Everything was fine. I adjusted for 6.2 grains, made 5 and checked them as well.

Finally, I adjusted and made 5 rounds at 6.4 grains. When checking them in the case gauge, one of the rounds, did not go fully into the gauge. Looks like about 0.039" sticking out. I could push it in the rest of the way, but it would not drop in, like the other rounds. The OAL on the round is fine (0.1251").

I tried crimping more, and then I used the bullet puller and set for much less crimp (still had some belling), and slowly increased the crimp, but no joy. I got to where I was clearly crimping too much, a groove around the Berry bullet, but same results. I even tried seating and crimping, with another case in the resizing, and then resizing and seating positions of my Dillon 650. Same issue. I had also tried two other Berry RN bullets (since there one had a groove in it).

I took another Sig case by itself, resized, primed, seated (1.255"), and then crimped. Put it in the case gauge...it was fine, dropped right in.

Any idea,why that one bullet is not gauging? It's once fired Sig Saur 230 grain brass.

I'm concerned, as when I did 9mm, I checked the first few, the 10th, 20th, and then every 50 I would gauge a round to check. I hope I don't need to check every round I create.

Interested in people's thoughts here.
 
I had a ton of fun today blasting 44 mag with the Henry. Shot the last of Michael Spangler's coated 310 gr bullets. Also shot my 240 gr XTP loads and some lighter mousefart loads using 240 gr Xtreme plated bullets over 5 gr of bullseye. Needless to say my shoulder is feeling it....

Then switched over to the Gen 2 Keltec Sub2000 and shot the 147 gr blue bullet loads. Very soft out of the sub2000.
 
Made three more sets of 5 bullets in .45 ACP as part of my effort to determine the right load for my 1911. I now have loads from 5.4 to 6.4 grains that I can try out.

I saw one unexplained thing at I'm hoping people have an idea on (as I'd prefer not to have to gauge every round, when I make large quantities). Here's what happened. I created 5 rounds at 6.0 grains, and after, checked the OAL, and checked in the case gauge. Everything was fine. I adjusted for 6.2 grains, made 5 and checked them as well.

Finally, I adjusted and made 5 rounds at 6.4 grains. When checking them in the case gauge, one of the rounds, did not go fully into the gauge. Looks like about 0.039" sticking out. I could push it in the rest of the way, but it would not drop in, like the other rounds. The OAL on the round is fine (0.1251").

I tried crimping more, and then I used the bullet puller and set for much less crimp (still had some belling), and slowly increased the crimp, but no joy. I got to where I was clearly crimping too much, a groove around the Berry bullet, but same results. I even tried seating and crimping, with another case in the resizing, and then resizing and seating positions of my Dillon 650. Same issue. I had also tried two other Berry RN bullets (since there one had a groove in it).

I took another Sig case by itself, resized, primed, seated (1.255"), and then crimped. Put it in the case gauge...it was fine, dropped right in.

Any idea,why that one bullet is not gauging? It's once fired Sig Saur 230 grain brass.

I'm concerned, as when I did 9mm, I checked the first few, the 10th, 20th, and then every 50 I would gauge a round to check. I hope I don't need to check every round I create.

Interested in people's thoughts here.

Is the bullet oversized causing a bulge in the case? Or is that one case have thicker walls than the other brass causing a bulge? That's about all I can think of.
 
No matter what you do, some percentage of your pistol reloads may not chamber check. If you could push it in the gauge and back out without too much effort I bet it will feed fire and eject fine in your gun. The gauge is tighter than your barrel. You should get an idea of how tight in the gauge is too tight for your gun.
 
Made three more sets of 5 bullets in .45 ACP as part of my effort to determine the right load for my 1911. I now have loads from 5.4 to 6.4 grains that I can try out.

I saw one unexplained thing at I'm hoping people have an idea on (as I'd prefer not to have to gauge every round, when I make large quantities). Here's what happened. I created 5 rounds at 6.0 grains, and after, checked the OAL, and checked in the case gauge. Everything was fine. I adjusted for 6.2 grains, made 5 and checked them as well.

Finally, I adjusted and made 5 rounds at 6.4 grains. When checking them in the case gauge, one of the rounds, did not go fully into the gauge. Looks like about 0.039" sticking out. I could push it in the rest of the way, but it would not drop in, like the other rounds. The OAL on the round is fine (0.1251").

I tried crimping more, and then I used the bullet puller and set for much less crimp (still had some belling), and slowly increased the crimp, but no joy. I got to where I was clearly crimping too much, a groove around the Berry bullet, but same results. I even tried seating and crimping, with another case in the resizing, and then resizing and seating positions of my Dillon 650. Same issue. I had also tried two other Berry RN bullets (since there one had a groove in it).

I took another Sig case by itself, resized, primed, seated (1.255"), and then crimped. Put it in the case gauge...it was fine, dropped right in.

Any idea,why that one bullet is not gauging? It's once fired Sig Saur 230 grain brass.

I'm concerned, as when I did 9mm, I checked the first few, the 10th, 20th, and then every 50 I would gauge a round to check. I hope I don't need to check every round I create.

Interested in people's thoughts here.
I had major seating issues with 45, by far the most difficult of the 11 calibers i reload. Although i like plated bullets, they vary far too much in diameter and lead to seating issues with 45 & 9,then the amount and type of bell on the case was next, mr bullet was better than the dillon expander, little bell as possible, then my 650 was also out of alignment ( loaded 44 mag no problem). I chased issues for many weeks. Don't give up.
 
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No matter what you do, some percentage of your pistol reloads may not chamber check. If you could push it in the gauge and back out without too much effort I bet it will feed fire and eject fine in your gun. The gauge is tighter than your barrel. You should get an idea of how tight in the gauge is too tight for your gun.
Good to know. It didn't take much to push it the last bit, just not something I've seen before.


sent from my phone.
 
What bullet are you using in the 45?
It could just be some variation in the bullets. My guess is that your OAL is right on the cusp of being too long to pass the chamber check. One bullet is a little fatter or didn't seat just right and it's going to give you fits.
I would make the next batch just a touch shorter and see how they do. Chance are it's an OAL issue.
The real check though is to see how they drop in your barrel. I've loaded rounds that work beautifully in my 1911 and my 625 but they're a little long to work in my buddy's M&P compact. You need to tap the slide to get it to chamber.
So you never know. I was taught to make the ammo to fit the chamber not a gauge. Makes sense. Hope you get it worked out.
 
What bullet are you using in the 45?
It could just be some variation in the bullets. My guess is that your OAL is right on the cusp of being too long to pass the chamber check. One bullet is a little fatter or didn't seat just right and it's going to give you fits.
I would make the next batch just a touch shorter and see how they do. Chance are it's an OAL issue.
The real check though is to see how they drop in your barrel. I've loaded rounds that work beautifully in my 1911 and my 625 but they're a little long to work in my buddy's M&P compact. You need to tap the slide to get it to chamber.
So you never know. I was taught to make the ammo to fit the chamber not a gauge. Makes sense. Hope you get it worked out.
Using Berry plated RN 230 gr. The OAL was 1.254" initially. Had it down to 1.249", with still no joy. The working bullets are 1.254-1.258". I seem to get some variation when running a solo case through processing, vs when have all stations going.

Seems to be well within the gauge's OAL. I'll try and check several bullets with calipers to see if there is much variation there.

Will check in chamber too.

sent from my phone.
 
You will always have a variation when running a single case: The press is not applying the same pressure to all contact points with a single case. For example, try using empty cases for at least the resizing station so that when the press is seating the bullet, it has similar resistance to when it's full. Those are the two stations with the most pressure but a full run will obviously produce the most consistent runs.
 
Using Berry plated RN 230 gr. The OAL was 1.254" initially. Had it down to 1.249", with still no joy. The working bullets are 1.254-1.258". I seem to get some variation when running a solo case through processing, vs when have all stations going.

Seems to be well within the gauge's OAL. I'll try and check several bullets with calipers to see if there is much variation there.

Will check in chamber too.

sent from my phone.

The seating stem contacts the bullet at the nose. If the OAL is a little too long and the bullet is contacting the rifling throat it will be further down the bullet at the fatter diameter. The geometry of the bullets can vary. You're seating based off one dimensions and gauging based off of another.
It's very common practice to measure this in rifle reloading to determine actual seating depth off of the lands. Bryan Litz has some Theresa's online about measuring and comparing bullets based off of the bearing surface and not trusting OAL as nose profiles and bearing surface aren't always the same.
Kind of the same principle here. Just a variation in profile from bullet to bullet most likely.
Also not all 230 RN are created equal.
Some bullets fatten up faster and take up more room in the throats. I noticed that with a lot of the Lee cast bullets. They seem to short and fat compared to the normal design in that weight. so I had to adjust OAL shorter so they didn't bump into the rifling and prevent channeling at the "normal" OAL for that bullet weight and design.
 
The seating stem contacts the bullet at the nose. If the OAL is a little too long and the bullet is contacting the rifling throat it will be further down the bullet at the fatter diameter. The geometry of the bullets can vary. You're seating based off one dimensions and gauging based off of another.
It's very common practice to measure this in rifle reloading to determine actual seating depth off of the lands. Bryan Litz has some Theresa's online about measuring and comparing bullets based off of the bearing surface and not trusting OAL as nose profiles and bearing surface aren't always the same.
Kind of the same principle here. Just a variation in profile from bullet to bullet most likely.
Also not all 230 RN are created equal.
Some bullets fatten up faster and take up more room in the throats. I noticed that with a lot of the Lee cast bullets. They seem to short and fat compared to the normal design in that weight. so I had to adjust OAL shorter so they didn't bump into the rifling and prevent channeling at the "normal" OAL for that bullet weight and design.

I had that happen with Powerbond 45s. Compared to an Xtreme or RMR plated bullet the profile was different just a touch. Fed in my 1911 no problem but gave me fits in my FN 45.
 
Thanks to 1919FAN letting me borrow him cutoff saw I spent a while last night prepping up some 223 brass to make 300BO. cut and sized a decent amount. Tumbled clean last night and I"ll be processing more tonight if I can.
I love getting into a new cartridge
 
Loaded 100 rounds of 223 today. This Dillon 550B is a joy to run. We are loading H335 and 55gr bullets. Have been working our loads up slowly. Tomorrow I will switch it back to 40 caliber and stock pile them.
I talked my brother in Florida into getting a used Dillon SDB to load his 9mm. He told me today that he has loaded up 400 rounds and slowly worked up his loads. Like me, he is not sure which is more fun, the loading or the shooting. I talked him into getting into IDPA shooting and the old fart is 72! He is having a blast.
 
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Nice, 55FMJ and H335 is a good combination. I always did 25.0 but a guy at the range told me he does 25.5 to mimic the ballistics of m193.

I was getting some very nice accuracy from hornady 55fun
With 335. 20" match barrel 1/8 twist.
The accuracy and optimum charge weight "node" came in 23.8 24.5 grains. With 24 being my best overall group accuracy. Velocity was just a touch over 3000fps
IIRC the average was 3021?
Now when I finally improved on my shooting skills, equipment and patiences for testing that OCW method really help me find some good info on powder charges.
Going on memory H335 held with 55fmj was holding sub 2MOA at min powder charge. Snugged up to that 1moa+ zone from 23.5 right on through to 25 grains.
What happened though is the point of impact shifted a good amount from 25-25.5 grains vs the 23.8-24.5 also 25 grains was not as consistent with group size.
I could get 2-3 shots under 1moa then a flyer to the left then to the right?
In the end H335 and 55fmj seem to get along nicely in all my rifles. Even my bare bones A2 with 1/9 twist.
I have a range friend who has a AR built just for 50-55 grain bullets and had a 20" 1/12 twist.
 
I think I found out why my reloads of 223 have sucked. I picked up a RCBS precision mic to compare my fired headspace against my resized headspace. I'm not sure how much .004" would make, but my resized we're that far over my fired cases. So if you figure sizing .002" smaller than fired, I'm looking at .006" longer on the headspace. :(

How much do I have to resize? A couple thou :( :(
 
Are you saying that resizing somehow made the cases bigger?

Working the brass can make it flow and this usually ends up causing the case length to increase over time. There are "M-dies" (?) that are supposed to combat this, but I've never used them. It isn't something that happens after every firing/resizing, but you should inspect/measure your brass periodically.
I can attest to lengthened necks in one instance, where I had a piece of 6.5 Swedish brass that snuck by me and it just wouldn't chamber. Turned out the case was way overlength and it bound in the chamber throat, not allowing the bolt to close. Trimmed it to spec and "perfect"!
 
Are you saying that resizing somehow made the cases bigger?

Resizing will make them longer in the neck.

I also forgot to add that all the ammo I'm resizing is not fired by my rifle. Bought 2k fired rounds here last year. So I'm resizing off of someone else headspace to try and get it close to my headspace.
 
If you have a head space micrometer then you could resize only enough to fit but easier to just fully resize, trim and not worry about it for everyday ammo
 
Making more improvements to my tools, I have a bunch of other vids too.

Powered Case trimmer



Improved Brass Sorter

 
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Packed up all my stuff and inventoried everything. Been staying with the wifes family since Oct. finally moving into our permanent home on March 15th! I didnt realize how well stocked I was on H110/296..
 
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