What did you do in the reloading room recently?

[pastera]

Man those are awesome!
How many do you think you have there?

By weight around 900 - from a 2 cavity mold with cold feet. Yes, I'm complaining like a little girl. Lost 30 lbs of 'insulation' and now the cold gets to me fast.

Have 18lbs of 230gn 45 RN to coat but I wanted to wait until my order for the Lee APP comes in with the sizing die. I find it is much easier to size if done right after casting or coating.

Probably size the 103gn tomorrow so I can put up some range ammo for the new 380.

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

By weight around 900 - from a 2 cavity mold with cold feet. Yes, I'm complaining like a little girl. Lost 30 lbs of 'insulation' and now the cold gets to me fast.

Have 18lbs of 230gn 45 RN to coat but I wanted to wait until my order for the Lee APP comes in with the sizing die. I find it is much easier to size if done right after casting or coating.

Probably size the 103gn tomorrow so I can put up some range ammo for the new 380.

Have some cake every night before bed. You’ll have your insulation back in no time.
You’ll have to let me know what you think of the APP. It looks pretty awesome.
I agree on sizing right away. Waiting a week can make it difficult.

 

[DW357]

The go-to reloading vendor just posted on their Facebook page that they will be having free hazmat next week.

Sale goes live tonight at midnight CST. $199 orders get free hazmat. Still need to pay shipping.

 

[whacko]

Got a strange one. Made up 50 each 45acp with 200 grain cast swc.....4.6 bullseye. Never used cast bullets only plated up until now. I tested them on my case gauge and they seemed pretty tight. Would go in but had to give them a little tap. All my plated ones go in no problem. They cases show more of a "bulge" than my plated bullet reloads......so I was a bit worried.

Took em to the range and they Ioaded cycled and fired fine. Just as accurate as my plated swc reloads. The spent shells look normal. I even chambered and ejected some unfired ones to check them out .....all seemed fine.

Why would a cast bullet make the cases tighter in the case gauge?

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

Got a strange one. Made up 50 each 45acp with 200 grain cast swc.....4.6 bullseye. Never used cast bullets only plated up until now. I tested them on my case gauge and they seemed pretty tight. Would go in but had to give them a little tap. All my plated ones go in no problem. They cases show more of a "bulge" than my plated bullet reloads......so I was a bit worried.

Took em to the range and they Ioaded cycled and fired fine. Just as accurate as my plated swc reloads. The spent shells look normal. I even chambered and ejected some unfired ones to check them out .....all seemed fine.

Why would a cast bullet make the cases tighter in the case gauge?

What diameter were they? It’s not uncommon to be .001” over plated and jacketed bullets.

I’ve always felt the best case gauge is the chamber of your gun. I’ve never used case gauges but I’m guessing they’re relatively tight compared to chamber specs for obvious reasons.

 

[TrashcanDan]

Got a strange one. Made up 50 each 45acp with 200 grain cast swc.....4.6 bullseye. Never used cast bullets only plated up until now. I tested them on my case gauge and they seemed pretty tight. Would go in but had to give them a little tap. All my plated ones go in no problem. They cases show more of a "bulge" than my plated bullet reloads......so I was a bit worried.

Took em to the range and they Ioaded cycled and fired fine. Just as accurate as my plated swc reloads. The spent shells look normal. I even chambered and ejected some unfired ones to check them out .....all seemed fine.

Why would a cast bullet make the cases tighter in the case gauge?

Might mic out at .4525 or .453, could be the crimp die running down the rest of the case.

 

[whacko]

Might mic out at .4525 or .453, could be the crimp die running down the rest of the case.

I think I figured it out. The box on the cast bullets states .452 and they check out to .452 on my caliper. I checked the crimp and on my last batch of plated I get .471 crimp and this batch of cast I'm seeing .475 crimp. Ill re run them through the crimp die and tighten them to .471.

What do you 45acp guys generally crimp yours too?

 

[TrashcanDan]

I think I figured it out. The box on the cast states .452 and they check out to .452 on my caliper. I checked the crimp and on my last batch of plated I get .471 crimp and this batch I'm seeing .475 a at the case mouth. Ill re run them through the crimp die.

Run what you got. If they work in your chamber, send em.
Re-crimping = Re-mooshing. Don't run the risk of distorting them.
I found that out a few years back with a 200 gr rn and a mold. That and the crimp die wasn't the best for lead.
Switched molds, switched dies (had to use a redding "profile crimp" for a 625)

 

[DW357]

Got a strange one. Made up 50 each 45acp with 200 grain cast swc.....4.6 bullseye. Never used cast bullets only plated up until now. I tested them on my case gauge and they seemed pretty tight. Would go in but had to give them a little tap. All my plated ones go in no problem. They cases show more of a "bulge" than my plated bullet reloads......so I was a bit worried.

Took em to the range and they Ioaded cycled and fired fine. Just as accurate as my plated swc reloads. The spent shells look normal. I even chambered and ejected some unfired ones to check them out .....all seemed fine.

Why would a cast bullet make the cases tighter in the case gauge?

Are you getting the "bulge" with all brass or certain headstamps?

 

[whacko]

Are you getting the "bulge" with all brass or certain headstamps?

All types of brass give me a bulge but noticed more with the cast.

 

[allen-1]

I just swapped over my Dillon XL650 from loading 9mm to loading .38 special. I have separate toolheads setup, so it's pretty easy. What I noticed on the first rounds of .38 was the resistance compared to loading the 9's. It's probably been three months or so since I've loaded anything other than 9mm, and there was a very distinct difference.

I cleaned and lubed the press, that didn't make any real difference. So, I had a spray can of Lyman's Qujick Slick Case Lube Spray sitting on the shelf - I bought it for .357SIG and never needed it. I dumped some .38 brass in a bucket, spritzed it a couple of times, shook it up and tossed it in the casefeeder.

The difference is amazing. Press is running much more smoothly, much less effort, no case sticking on the powder funnel.

I'm thinking I may do this when I go back to 9mm as well.

 

[SJan]

^ yeah. when i started loading, i did not lube pistol brass. Once i started and felt the difference, i never went back to dry

 

[mark2215]

I've had some brass that could definitely use some lube, especially brand new starline. I wouldn't mind lubing it all if it's as simple as spraying some lube and shaking the bucket. What lube is recommended?

 

[mac1911]

I think I figured it out. The box on the cast bullets states .452 and they check out to .452 on my caliper. I checked the crimp and on my last batch of plated I get .471 crimp and this batch of cast I'm seeing .475 crimp. Ill re run them through the crimp die and tighten them to .471.

What do you 45acp guys generally crimp yours too?

I only crimp enough to loose the case flare. I dont think I ever measured the “crimp” . I might if I had failure to feed issues?
I use multi headstamps, the case thickness variation is probably enough to drive you nuts

Also when “re crimping” you can squish the bullet and it will not bounce back like brass does. So you can end up with loose crimps

 

[DW357]

I only crimp enough to loose the case flare. I dont think I ever measured the “crimp” . I might if I had failure to feed issues?
I use multi headstamps, the case thickness variation is probably enough to drive you nuts

Also when “re crimping” you can squish the bullet and it will not bounce back like brass does. So you can end up with loose crimps

This. I don't think measuring crimp is really doable especially with mixed brass and numerous firings etc. I never bothered to measure it. I just apply enough crimp to remove the flare of the casemouth. I usually pull the bullets to see if I'm cutting through the coating/plating which means there's too much crimp. I do this for 9mm. For 357 and 44 magnum that's different.

 

[DW357]

I just swapped over my Dillon XL650 from loading 9mm to loading .38 special. I have separate toolheads setup, so it's pretty easy. What I noticed on the first rounds of .38 was the resistance compared to loading the 9's. It's probably been three months or so since I've loaded anything other than 9mm, and there was a very distinct difference.

I cleaned and lubed the press, that didn't make any real difference. So, I had a spray can of Lyman's Qujick Slick Case Lube Spray sitting on the shelf - I bought it for .357SIG and never needed it. I dumped some .38 brass in a bucket, spritzed it a couple of times, shook it up and tossed it in the casefeeder.

The difference is amazing. Press is running much more smoothly, much less effort, no case sticking on the powder funnel.

I'm thinking I may do this when I go back to 9mm as well.

I really should lube my 9mm brass as it gets tiring after long reloading sessions. I actually made a padded biking type glove to keep my hand/palm from getting sore. I only need it for 9mm. Resizing 357 and 44 mag brass is a breeze.

I just don't want to deal with cleaning the brass afterwards. Isn't the brass sticky after applying lube?

 

[DW357]

I've had some brass that could definitely use some lube, especially brand new starline. I wouldn't mind lubing it all if it's as simple as spraying some lube and shaking the bucket.

Same. If it's anything like lubing rifle brass, that's a giant PITA since you have (or should depending on the lube) to remove the lube afterwards.

 

[peterk123]

I really should lube my 9mm brass as it gets tiring after long reloading sessions. I actually made a padded biking type glove to keep my hand/palm from getting sore. I only need it for 9mm. Resizing 357 and 44 mag brass is a breeze.

I just don't want to deal with cleaning the brass afterwards. Isn't the brass sticky after applying lube?

I use the ground walnut stuff for tumbling still. Too cheap and lazy to do the stainless pin thing that many are using these days. But, because I use walnut I can also throw in some NuFinish car wax in there (and cut up dryer sheets to collect all the dirt and crud). Makes my brass super shiny. And, it makes the brass just a bit slick, enough so that loading 9mm is nice and easy.

 

[SJan]

Hornady one shot for pistol brass. while maybe not the best for bottleneck rifle sizing, its great for pistol. use it sparingly and no need to clean off. i use a large disposable baking pan, about a one second spray onto about 200 cases then shake them around, give them a couple of minutes before throwing into the casefeeder

 

[peterk123]

I really should lube my 9mm brass as it gets tiring after long reloading sessions. I actually made a padded biking type glove to keep my hand/palm from getting sore. I only need it for 9mm. Resizing 357 and 44 mag brass is a breeze.

I just don't want to deal with cleaning the brass afterwards. Isn't the brass sticky after applying lube?

Another option which I was doing before the car wax was putting a bunch of 9mm brass (or any other pistol brass) into a one gallon ziplock, making sure all the brass is laying on its side, then hitting it with One Shot spray. Then just roll the brass with your palm on top of the bag. That worked very well. And you do not have to clean the stuff off.

 

[DW357]

I use the ground walnut stuff for tumbling still. Too cheap and lazy to do the stainless pin thing that many are using these days. But, because I use walnut I can also throw in some NuFinish car wax in there (and cut up dryer sheets to collect all the dirt and crud). Makes my brass super shiny. And, it makes the brass just a bit slick, enough so that loading 9mm is nice and easy.

Hmm I haven't tried walnut yet. I've been using corn cob so far. But lately I've been buying 9mm brass and I'm not sure how it's been cleaned. I think it's corn cob based on the excess media at the bottom of the bags...

 

[allen-1]

I've had some brass that could definitely use some lube, especially brand new starline. I wouldn't mind lubing it all if it's as simple as spraying some lube and shaking the bucket. What lube is recommended?

I read a couple articles, looked at a few youtube videos. People lay their brass out on cookie sheets, put it in gallon ziplock baggies, get pretty OCD about it. People recommend (and argue), about the best lube.

I had that can of Lyman's, and I'm lazy. I dumped the brass in the bucket, spritzed it, shook it up pretty good - and it's working for me.

 

[allen-1]

I really should lube my 9mm brass as it gets tiring after long reloading sessions. I actually made a padded biking type glove to keep my hand/palm from getting sore. I only need it for 9mm. Resizing 357 and 44 mag brass is a breeze.

I just don't want to deal with cleaning the brass afterwards. Isn't the brass sticky after applying lube?

Doesn't appear to be. This is for a revolver, if it doesn't load well, I'll throw the loaded rounds into the tumbler for a couple of minutes.


UPDATED - I took both revolvers to the range, GP100 cut for moon clips, and GP100 with stock cylinder. Rounds loaded and shells ejected without issue using moon clips and speed loaders. Brass isn't tacky/sticky; if anything, it's slick. So, I'm not going to bother tumbling afterwards.

 

[DW357]

Hornady one shot for pistol brass. while maybe not the best for bottleneck rifle sizing, its great for pistol. use it sparingly and no need to clean off. i use a large disposable baking pan, about a one second spray onto about 200 cases then shake them around, give them a couple of minutes before throwing into the casefeeder

I'll have to try this. I have a can of one shot kicking around but only tried it with rifle brass before switching to the alcohol lanolin mix.

 

[peterk123]

Hmm I haven't tried walnut yet. I've been using corn cob so far. But lately I've been buying 9mm brass and I'm not sure how it's been cleaned. I think it's corn cob based on the excess media at the bottom of the bags...

Try the dryer sheets, if you are not using it yet. It really extends the life of the media you use. Amazing how much crap sticks to it.

 

[DW357]

Try the dryer sheets, if you are not using it yet. It really extends the life of the media you use. Amazing how much crap sticks to it.

No I've been using dryer sheets and case polishing products from Berry's and Frankford Arsenal.

Have not tried NuFinish yet though. Might be worth grabbing some.

 

[whacko]

I've never used lube at all for 45 357 or 38. I tumble in corn cob with a polishing agent already in the media made by hornady. Stuff comes out shiny as hell and just the slightest hint of a coating on it. Runs through the dies easy.

 

[whacko]

I only crimp enough to loose the case flare. I dont think I ever measured the “crimp” . I might if I had failure to feed issues?
I use multi headstamps, the case thickness variation is probably enough to drive you nuts

Also when “re crimping” you can squish the bullet and it will not bounce back like brass does. So you can end up with loose crimps

I do measure the crimp when I'm using the same headstamp brass that has been fired the same number of times. Can't do the measurement if it's mixed brass. The bullseye shooters I know all measure crimp and obviously keep their brass segregated by headstamp and times reloaded.

The batch I'm talking about all came out at .475 when I measured them after the fact and fit the case gauge tight. I usually crimp them at .471 so that may have been the issue.....or actually.....non issue because the cycle fine.

 

[whacko]

Today I loaded up

150 each
357 mag
Remington case
Win primers
158 grain zero jsp
12.7 grains 2400
Oal 1.585

50 each
45acp
Winchester case
Win primers
200 grain berry plated swc
4.7 grains bullseye
Oal 1.2

I was going to do 100 each on the 357 mag but after I got the powder measure tossing very precise 12.7 grain throws I decided to run an extra 50. That powder meters very well.

Then I sorted a tumbler full of 38 and 357 cases and tossed on a batch of 45acp brass to tumble.

2 hours total time in the man cave. I know.......I'm slow.....using a single stage isn't high volume but I enjoy the peace and quiet and the results.


Have to say that the $65 Lee single stage press I bought last summer is showing some wear already. Handle is wiggly......can't complain with the amount of ammo I've churned out on that cheap single stage. I was eyeballing a rock chucker up at shooters outpost last weekend and almost pulled the trigger. Just seems like a much more solid tool compared to the Lee. Question ....do Lee dies fit the rock chucker or would I have to buy new dies? The chucker was priced at $169.


This was the model they had.

 

[Mountain]

Today I did NOT reload 7.5 Swiss, nor will I need to for the near future due to scoring a boatload of GP11 from someone very connected to this thread. I may continue the 'cheating' and order a bunch of .30-06 Creedmoor ammo (Lapua components) from the CMP. This will free some time to load fun stuff like .458 SOCOM, 300 BLK, and maybe some 7mm BR for my XP-100 pistol.