I used to reload shotgun shells and that is the only reloading I have done. I have started to shoot revolvers and find I go through a lot more ammo than just when I was rifle shooting. I would like to start reloading revolver ammo for .44 special/magnum and .38/357 magnum. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I should get started? Thanks
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Want to start reloading-??????
- Thread starter Greg D
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Start with a good basic book, such as "The ABC's of Reloading." You can pick that up from Amazon for less than $15 - I doubt you'll find one at the local bookstore or library, but it might be worth a look. Read it through to get an overview of the steps.
Then find somebody at your gun club (if you don't have a gun club find one you like and join it) who reloads and seems to have his head on straight who'll show you his bench setup and walk you through the process, maybe even let you use his stuff until you get your own. You want to pay special attention to the safety aspects, such as never, ever using a load you can't validate in a reputable reloading manual.
Then figure out your price range and get the basic equipment - stick with the national name brands (I started with RCBS equipment over 30 years ago and it's all still working fine for me, but there are other good brands as well). For straight wall pistol cases invest in carbide dies - you'll be glad you did. Take pride in your handloads and resolve to make them better than factory loads, which you can do with just a little effort.
Metallic cartridge reloading is a bit more involved than shotshell reloading, but only a bit. Read a lot, ask questions a lot, and make safety your first priority.
Then find somebody at your gun club (if you don't have a gun club find one you like and join it) who reloads and seems to have his head on straight who'll show you his bench setup and walk you through the process, maybe even let you use his stuff until you get your own. You want to pay special attention to the safety aspects, such as never, ever using a load you can't validate in a reputable reloading manual.
Then figure out your price range and get the basic equipment - stick with the national name brands (I started with RCBS equipment over 30 years ago and it's all still working fine for me, but there are other good brands as well). For straight wall pistol cases invest in carbide dies - you'll be glad you did. Take pride in your handloads and resolve to make them better than factory loads, which you can do with just a little effort.
Metallic cartridge reloading is a bit more involved than shotshell reloading, but only a bit. Read a lot, ask questions a lot, and make safety your first priority.
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When it's time to buy a press make sure to buy a Dillon. There are other decent presses but the Dillon presses are the best. Reloading is an investment that will last for MANY years. You get what you pay for in reloading presses. Yes, a $100 press will work fine but will it last 20 years? Prob. not... I started with a Lee Progressive 1000 and was very dissatisfied with it. The press is flimsy, the primer feed is terrible, and it is difficult to regulate powder. After about 500 rounds I bought a dillon 650 which I've used for the past few years and never looked back. You can find used gear quite often. Check on the forums and in the Want Ad.
Pete
Pete
TY43215
NES Member
I will echo what Dick wrote. I started reloading in 1975 on a RCBS JR single stage press. (Actually I started with a Lee hand loader but that is another story)
I still own the press (and a 9MM hand loader)and still feel a single stage is the best way to learn the task properly. It forces you to pay attention to the process and learn what each die does.
When you feel you have mastered a single stage press and feel you are going to continue reloading (many give up too easy) then think about a progressive press.
Now comes the offer: If you ever decide to take up reloading and want a hand setting up and learning, I will gladly spend a few hours with you and get you started in one caliber as long as you are a reasonable drive from me. All it will cost is a good (add emphasis on good) cup of coffee (cream not milk). (and none of that foo foo stuff)
Here are a link to start you off
http://www.reload-nrma.com/index.html
regards,
I still own the press (and a 9MM hand loader)and still feel a single stage is the best way to learn the task properly. It forces you to pay attention to the process and learn what each die does.
When you feel you have mastered a single stage press and feel you are going to continue reloading (many give up too easy) then think about a progressive press.
Now comes the offer: If you ever decide to take up reloading and want a hand setting up and learning, I will gladly spend a few hours with you and get you started in one caliber as long as you are a reasonable drive from me. All it will cost is a good (add emphasis on good) cup of coffee (cream not milk). (and none of that foo foo stuff)
Here are a link to start you off
http://www.reload-nrma.com/index.html
regards,
I am going to buck the trend and tell you to get a Lee Aniversary Kit with Richard Lee's Modern Reloading. Other than components, all you need are a set of calipers and a set of reloading dies for the caliber of your choice (Carbide if it is a straight wall pistol case).
For about $130.00, you get everything you need to load one caliber, and can get a second set of dies for another $30.00. The Lee Press is more than adequate to reload pistol rounds (as well as rifle rounds). An RCBS single stage setup will cost more than double.
If you decide that you like reloading and want to increase your productivity, you canget a progressive press latter. The down side of starting with a progressive press is that they have a much tougher learning curve and they are much more expensive (An RCBS Progressive Press costs over $400, while a Dillon is even more expensive). You will still find uses for your single stage press (depriming, etc...).
I also like Lee Dies. A good value for the money. Get the four die set with the Factory Crimp Die. Even many die hard Lee haters like the FCD because it makes crimping easier.
BTW, I have a spare copy of ABCs of Reloading, 6th Edition, you can have. E-mail me your address and I will mail it to you. (mark.p.cornell*tds.net, but change the * to an @).
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=820810
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=820810
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=820810
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=119623
Mark
For about $130.00, you get everything you need to load one caliber, and can get a second set of dies for another $30.00. The Lee Press is more than adequate to reload pistol rounds (as well as rifle rounds). An RCBS single stage setup will cost more than double.
If you decide that you like reloading and want to increase your productivity, you canget a progressive press latter. The down side of starting with a progressive press is that they have a much tougher learning curve and they are much more expensive (An RCBS Progressive Press costs over $400, while a Dillon is even more expensive). You will still find uses for your single stage press (depriming, etc...).
I also like Lee Dies. A good value for the money. Get the four die set with the Factory Crimp Die. Even many die hard Lee haters like the FCD because it makes crimping easier.
BTW, I have a spare copy of ABCs of Reloading, 6th Edition, you can have. E-mail me your address and I will mail it to you. (mark.p.cornell*tds.net, but change the * to an @).
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=820810
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=820810
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=820810
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=119623
Mark
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Greg,
Another question you have to answer is how much do you plan on shooting? If you're an IPSC or IDPA shooter you'll prob. shoot more than other sports and will need a Progressive press. If you're only shooting a few hundred rounds a month a single stage would be fine. I started with a progressive press. I did take a reloading class on a single stage press before starting and did read some books as well. With the progressive press I just took my time and the learning curve was quick and painless. As much as I shoot I can't imagine even considering a single stage press. I have a Dillon 650 now that I average 700+ rounds an hour on and I want something faster.
Pete
Another question you have to answer is how much do you plan on shooting? If you're an IPSC or IDPA shooter you'll prob. shoot more than other sports and will need a Progressive press. If you're only shooting a few hundred rounds a month a single stage would be fine. I started with a progressive press. I did take a reloading class on a single stage press before starting and did read some books as well. With the progressive press I just took my time and the learning curve was quick and painless. As much as I shoot I can't imagine even considering a single stage press. I have a Dillon 650 now that I average 700+ rounds an hour on and I want something faster.
Pete
TonyD
One Shot One Maggie's Drawers
Adam - I know you like your new stuff but Lee is not quality - cheap, yes, but not quality. With that being said, I do use a few Lee products. One of the best buys one can make is to get their manual / C-press combo with a decapping die. I also use their cutter and lock-stud with a cordless drill to trim with - not the best by any means but it works.
Every hand-loader should own an RCBS single stage press (RockChucker, RC Jr, or Reloader Special). You can find these used anywhere from $20 to $65, and they will last well beyond our lifetime's.
If you're going to load precision rifle rounds, get the best beam scale RCBS makes, or the new Loadmaster if you have the bucks.
I'm also using a set of Lee Deluxe rifle dies but I'll be changing that soon to a RCBS X die with Hornady expander, and a RCBS mic. bullet seating die.
Every hand-loader should own an RCBS single stage press (RockChucker, RC Jr, or Reloader Special). You can find these used anywhere from $20 to $65, and they will last well beyond our lifetime's.
If you're going to load precision rifle rounds, get the best beam scale RCBS makes, or the new Loadmaster if you have the bucks.
I'm also using a set of Lee Deluxe rifle dies but I'll be changing that soon to a RCBS X die with Hornady expander, and a RCBS mic. bullet seating die.
I started with a Dillon 550B progressive. I can see no reason to start with a single-stage press and would probably have given up reloading if I had.
Read a good reloading book (Lyman's works). Read the Dillon manual. Watch the Dillon video tape. It's not that hard.
Wow!! You guys are all very generous with time, knowledge, advice and even a book. I didn't think I would get this much of a response.
Thank you Mark for your offer of the book. Round Gun Shooter, I really appreciate your offer of time. I can make a mean cup of coffee, but I am about 2.5 hours away from you. If you are ever in central or western Mass, look me up.
I appreciate all of the comments and I now know that I have a lot to learn and an investment to make.
Thank you Mark for your offer of the book. Round Gun Shooter, I really appreciate your offer of time. I can make a mean cup of coffee, but I am about 2.5 hours away from you. If you are ever in central or western Mass, look me up.
I appreciate all of the comments and I now know that I have a lot to learn and an investment to make.
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Greg I live close to you as I'm in Templeton and would be more than willing to help you out as well. I don't think there is a need for a single stage press even starting out. I agree with M1911 150%. If you shoot a lot reloading can become a chore. If you're not able to produce enough ammo in a timely manner it isn't worth it.
Dillon makes the best presses on the market. The manual that comes with the press is EXCELLENT. Add the video and it doesn't get much easier than that.
The other presses are decent but they aren't a Dillon. Yes, you will pay more for a Dillon but you will save more with one in the long run. It will last longer, has better support (lifetime no b.s. warranty) and will produce consisitant ammo at a quick rate of speed.
Don't forget your time is worth a lot of money. On a single stage press you can prob. load 50-75 rounds per hour. On a Dillon 650 you can do that in less than 5 minutes. Now load 1000 rounds. Dillon about 1 1/2 hours. Single stage about 13 hours. Spending the extra money looks a lot more attractive when you figure things out.
Pete
Dillon makes the best presses on the market. The manual that comes with the press is EXCELLENT. Add the video and it doesn't get much easier than that.
The other presses are decent but they aren't a Dillon. Yes, you will pay more for a Dillon but you will save more with one in the long run. It will last longer, has better support (lifetime no b.s. warranty) and will produce consisitant ammo at a quick rate of speed.
Don't forget your time is worth a lot of money. On a single stage press you can prob. load 50-75 rounds per hour. On a Dillon 650 you can do that in less than 5 minutes. Now load 1000 rounds. Dillon about 1 1/2 hours. Single stage about 13 hours. Spending the extra money looks a lot more attractive when you figure things out.
Pete
M1911 said:
+1
I started on a Dillon, then my GF bought me a Hornady L-N-L AP. I bought a $100 chronograph too. First time I used the press, I loaded up fifty 10mm 180gr HP's over 8.3 grs of Power Pistol, took them to the range, and found that they were more consistent and accurate than factory loads. When I got home I loaded up 950 more in 2 hours and probably paid for the press.
M1911 is right. It is not so hard that you need to start out on a single stage. I think that advice has been repeated so many times that people take it as Gospel. I don't have that kind of patience.
In addition to the chrono, there are two other things that I've found invaluable: a $60 case tumbler from Cabelas, and a PACT digital scale I got on eBay for about $30. I have a beam balance but the digital scale is way easier and quicker to use.
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+1 I started with a 550B also dispite all the people who said to get a single stage. I just used it as a single stage until I understood what was what. My first press about 15 years ago was a Lee Progressive 1000. I quit reloading for 13 years because of the POS. I liked the 550 so much I had to buy a XL650 to keep it company. Alot of the gun forums have reloading sections in them. You can learn a boatload reading past post about Dillon presses. That meant alot to me when I first started reloading again. If you buy a Dillon you'll never look back.M1911 said:
Thanks for all the info. I just bought 1000 rounds of new ammo. This way I'll have brass and time to think about what I want to do. It seems like Dillon is the way to go. I was surprised at the prices, but I'm sure you get what you pay for.
Thanks for the offer Pete. When I am ready to start reloading I'll look you up.
Do you shoot IDPA or USPS?
Greg
Thanks for the offer Pete. When I am ready to start reloading I'll look you up.
Do you shoot IDPA or USPS?
Greg
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The best I can do on my Dillon 550B is 300 rounds in an hour. No way can I do 550 rounds per hour.
Nevertheless, 300 rounds per hour is still a heck of a lot faster than a single-stage press. And swapping calibers doesn't take long at all with the quick-change kit.
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Greg,
I shoot USPSA. If you're interested you should come down and watch a local match or come on a Wed. evening to Harvard. Anyone there will be more than happy to answer any questions you may have. Not only that almost everyone would be more than willing to let you shoot their guns.
Pete
I shoot USPSA. If you're interested you should come down and watch a local match or come on a Wed. evening to Harvard. Anyone there will be more than happy to answer any questions you may have. Not only that almost everyone would be more than willing to let you shoot their guns.
Pete
Go to Dillon online and check out the prices for the whole set-up. EGuns.com and Brian Enos.com also are better because of the deals they have on shipping that the factory doesn't.Greg D said:
I don't relaod, but i'm considering it. Good info here. Several things stand out
here.
!. you can do a better job than the factory. How does that happen.???
Is factory ammo that inconsistent.
2. The other is cost. I keep reading that it will pay for itself in XXXXX,
How do you determine this..?????
Your right that your time is valuable and or you could be doing something else.
JimB
here.
!. you can do a better job than the factory. How does that happen.???
Is factory ammo that inconsistent.
2. The other is cost. I keep reading that it will pay for itself in XXXXX,
How do you determine this..?????
Your right that your time is valuable and or you could be doing something else.
JimB
JimB said:
Yes you can! Factory ammo, is loaded to a spec, that the factory comes up with that is within SAMI specs. Every gun is different, and what shoots great in one gun, may not be as accurate in another. By reloading, you get to try different bullets, primers, powder, powder charges, seating depth of the bullets, until you find one that works perfectly in your gun, and keep making that one.
JimB said:
This one is tough... Some say that you won't save any money, however you will start to shoot more for the same amount of money. But to answer your question... Take what you pay for 1000 rounds of ammo. Then, figure out what components you will be using. Powder is about $20/lb and depending on the powder and charge, you can get up to 1500 rounds/lb of powder. Then add in the actual bullet cost. Lead will save you the most money. And figure about $17/1000 primers. If you have to buy brass the first time, don't account for that in the actual cost of the rounds, as your brass for pistol can be reused over, and over. I know some folks who have well over 20 reloads on the same brass. Rifle cases take more of a beating, but if you are not loading them real hot, you can still get maybe 5 or so loading out of a rifle case before it becomes suspect.
For 45 ACP, I can reload 1000 rounds for somewhere around $90, and that still leaves me with enough powder left in the pound to do about 400 or so more rounds.
Hope this helps
Adam
the other advantage to reloading is you can taylor your loads for your needs
let's say you shoot 454 casull you can load full power loads for hunting or reduced loads for plinking etc.
My costs are 4 to 5 cents per round BUT I cast my own bullets but that subject is for another thread.
let's say you shoot 454 casull you can load full power loads for hunting or reduced loads for plinking etc.
My costs are 4 to 5 cents per round BUT I cast my own bullets but that subject is for another thread.
That's a very simple cost analysis. You can check my post here:
http://northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=4568&page=2&highlight=Dillon
Note that costs have increased since I did that analysis, so it would make sense to get updated prices and rerun the math. Not hard too do.
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You ask how can you make better ammo than factory?
First, you have more choices of powder, bullet weights, primers, and brass. What does this mean?
Well, you can custom tailor the ammo to match your gun. Different powders burn at different rates. (some faster some slower etc) By using certain powder types you can totally change the way the gun recoils. By using different powders you can get a bullet to travel at the exact same velocities yet feel totally different when shot out of the gun. Plus, you can download your ammo if you're shooting steel and don't need "hot" loads. This will make the gun recoil much less than a full power load.
You can also change variables such as over all length. In my .40 S&W 1911 I run my ammo longer than factory specs. This helps in reliability for my gun. The longer bullets actually feed better than a shorter one.
Then there is cost. If you only shoot a few hundred rounds a year then reloading prob. won't pay off. However, if you shoot a lot then it will keep costs down substantially.
One other thing about reloading is if you're shooting an odd caliber. I recently had a .38 super 1911 built so I need special ammo to make a certain velocity. I'm not sure of many companies currently selling factory .38 super ammo. So, because of this I need to reload.
Hope this helps. There is a lot more to it but I don't want this post to be too long.
Pete
First, you have more choices of powder, bullet weights, primers, and brass. What does this mean?
Well, you can custom tailor the ammo to match your gun. Different powders burn at different rates. (some faster some slower etc) By using certain powder types you can totally change the way the gun recoils. By using different powders you can get a bullet to travel at the exact same velocities yet feel totally different when shot out of the gun. Plus, you can download your ammo if you're shooting steel and don't need "hot" loads. This will make the gun recoil much less than a full power load.
You can also change variables such as over all length. In my .40 S&W 1911 I run my ammo longer than factory specs. This helps in reliability for my gun. The longer bullets actually feed better than a shorter one.
Then there is cost. If you only shoot a few hundred rounds a year then reloading prob. won't pay off. However, if you shoot a lot then it will keep costs down substantially.
One other thing about reloading is if you're shooting an odd caliber. I recently had a .38 super 1911 built so I need special ammo to make a certain velocity. I'm not sure of many companies currently selling factory .38 super ammo. So, because of this I need to reload.
Hope this helps. There is a lot more to it but I don't want this post to be too long.
Pete
if you're paying $20 per pound for powder, you're getting F'd in the A
even the most ridiculous of imported powders, Vhita Vhouri is like $18/pound
I'm not saying that powder isn't worth it, but you need to think of what you are loading for.
There's 7000 grains in a pound, look at what you are loading, what the various powders call for a charge, and what you're looking to shoot.
If all you're doing is knocking over steel and punching holes in paper for fun, get the most economical
I've also never agreed with the "your time is valuable" statement, unless you've got the option to go get paid by someone for the same time it would take you to reload, your time has no monetary value.
Me- i'm not going to run out and get a part time evening job at cumberland farms. So the 3 hours i may spend over the course of a week to reload about 700 12ga rounds and another 2-300 38super rounds isn't worth anything. If anything, it's a profit because I'm at home rather than out spending my money.
even the most ridiculous of imported powders, Vhita Vhouri is like $18/pound
I'm not saying that powder isn't worth it, but you need to think of what you are loading for.
There's 7000 grains in a pound, look at what you are loading, what the various powders call for a charge, and what you're looking to shoot.
If all you're doing is knocking over steel and punching holes in paper for fun, get the most economical
I've also never agreed with the "your time is valuable" statement, unless you've got the option to go get paid by someone for the same time it would take you to reload, your time has no monetary value.
Me- i'm not going to run out and get a part time evening job at cumberland farms. So the 3 hours i may spend over the course of a week to reload about 700 12ga rounds and another 2-300 38super rounds isn't worth anything. If anything, it's a profit because I'm at home rather than out spending my money.
