Upgrading my Ex-Dragoon's Trigger

majspud

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Discretion was the better part of valor; I worked my ex-Dragoon and stayed out of the cold. I had ordered off e-Bay a $3.82 delivered shim and spring kit for any Mosin rifle. This kit eliminates the floppy trigger syndrome when cocked; it does NOT make the action into a two stage trigger. I didn't feel like spending $25 for a Finn two stage trigger at the moment, although it would have been easier to replace the trigger at the same time.

I disassembled the trigger, cleaning and oiling the parts. Had to use a pair of channel locks on the screwdriver to get enough torque to remove the trigger spring screw and install the shim. After 10 minutes of fussing with the spring as there were no directions in the package, I found them on the auction. With the dental floss, it went together quickly. Trigger is very positive and predictable now. Probably helped that I cleaned things inside there as well. Well worth $3.82.

t

Mosin Nagant Trigger Upgrade Spring Kit Shorter Lighter Pull M44 M53 M39 91/30 | eBay
 

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The $4 kit is ok but really does not do much for the trigger. Polishing the trigger and sear contact area will help a lot if your careful a slight polish of the sear to bolt (sear hook) contact will improve the trigger also.
When your done going down that road order a Finn trigger and sear and enjoy a much better trigger. Light polishing goes a long way for any trigger.
 
Finished the job by installing a Finn trigger, and polishing the three contact points. Can't say I feel a difference like I did with my M91 N.E.W.

t[frown]
 

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I will try and transfer the pics I have of my mosin polish job.
Buffing compounds are not really going to work. Turtle wax chrome Polish works OK with out danger of removing to much metal.
Also don't go by feel alone even if you make up a home made pull guage with a coat hanger and a soup can.
 
I didn't feel like taking it down again, so I dipped the pointy tip of the polisher into the chrome cleaner and went at it that way. Still don't really feel a 2-stage, but it's sure smooth.

t
 
I didn't feel like taking it down again, so I dipped the pointy tip of the polisher into the chrome cleaner and went at it that way. Still don't really feel a 2-stage, but it's sure smooth.

t
if you put the return spring back in it might be hard to feel the step?
 
Ditch the spring with the Finn trigger, spring doesn't do anything but take up the slack and add weight to the pull.
 
the shim is up to you. I have found the shim not to do much of anything but change the contact area on the sear spring to trigger and on one of my rifles provide to much sear angle change and it wiuld fire on closingthe bolt.
 
i have these
Eze-Lap Diamond Needle File, Fine, Round : EZE-LAP DIAMOND NEEDLE FILES | Brownells
and these
BROWNELLS GUNSMITH'S PREMIUM CERAMIC STONE FILE SET | Brownells
also have EZ-LAP brand dimaond files that i use a lot.

I use ultra fine paper and lapping past 800 grit
like this stuffhttps://shop.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/lapping-compounds/800-lapping-compound-sku083041800-1137-4059.aspx?cm_mmc=PPC-_-Itwine-_-Google-_-083-041-800&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4bzSBRDOARIsAHJ1UO4yW5vzU68ihvKaYkqP48mGqVTAzuxr6S2X0WleRUSJu4hF9vdGcosaAh7uEALw_wcB

the compound is not the best way to smooth out a trigger. I will use it on poor triggers i just want to get some kinks out of like on my glenfield 25.
I will note doing any stone/file work must be done very slow. your not trying to remove metal just and rough spots.

i used 1200 grit wet dry cloth to do the contact inside the trigger itself. this was a big change in feel on my mosins both russian and finn
 
OK, took everything apart, polished the three corners properly, and reassembled without the spring or shim. There may be the slightest hesitation, but I can't really tell. Not going to anything else.

t
 
Does your bolt move up or down when you pull the trigger?
These triggers are never going to be "great" if you can get it to be smooth with out and snags or noticeable rough spots and have a predictable break
 
Some simple Finn adjustments for the 91 and 91/30 rifles.

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Good Luck

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I'll check with my wife to see if any family can translate. Also can check a friend of a friend. Worst case I should see some Finn customers in a few months.
curious to know if they tempered the parts before removing/reshaping the sear itself and then re harden the parts. Thats a good amount of material to remove and reshape with out a few spares on hand. Also like to know what they did to the bolt, reshape that or just plish it up.
 
I'm assuming Finnish, but need to take a closer look in case it's Swedish. Many Finns speak Swedish and a good portion of those don't speak Finn at all.
 
Interesting that they hit the sear with a hammer , almost feels like they got that tip from a drunk Russian .
I don't know much about working metal on a technical note but hitting it with small hammer might spread the force a bit better than a single point bend. I need to order a few Sears and do some work.
 
Each rifle is unique to it self. These are just floor drawings as a guide. step by step fitting is a must. There is a large variance in the production parts on the Russian 91 series so tread accordingly as you could end up with dangerous to carry rifle and not the accurate upgrade you were looking for.

I try to stay on the safe side of this option plus my 28/30 needs no fiddling.

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