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I actually bought an Al Mar SERE folding knife, but thought it too big for EDC, and got the Benchmade AFCK instead. I really liked that knife, but it was just B-I-G big, plus I like the hole opener better than the pencil eraser. To me, it is a better design to lighten it and have less "snagability", and I was used to the hole from a previous Spyderco. I bet the fixed blade one is awesome.http://www.almarknives.com/sere-operator-p-60.html
Everything you need. Nothing you don't.
You get what you pay for.
great looking knife! and a good storyWhen I was born my father bought me a Gerber A425 knife, 4.5" chrome plated M2 tool steel, full tang, aluminum handle with "armorhide" grip. I still have the paperwork that shows he paid about $35 for it, including the leather sheath. It's a great knife and holds a hair popping edge longer than any other knife I've ever used. It's too bad they don't make them anymore because I think it's pretty close to an indestructible knife.
(Picture not mine, but very similar)
its sad isnt it luckily i got my RD4.5 when it was still made by JustinRanger R4 (now made by Ontario)
great choice, Busse's are mean knives!Busse's latest offering, the Tank Buster
the actual cutting "edge"J Brum,
Gorgeous knife. I'm a little curious about the two different edge angles. Is there a specific reason for that configuration?
Is the edge angle at the actual edge different for the two sections?
Also, does the false edge wide enough at the back to allow your palm to apply leverage to the blade for heavy cutting?
+1 for building your own knife, that is really coolafter a few times out in the field working with different knives,
is what led me into designing this one to suit MY needs
Pics?...... or it did'nt happenYeah, I have a friend who has a custom built knife he designed himself from the ground up. He's a material science guy, so the metal is a custom alloy he developed. If I recall, it's a pretty exotic tungsten-steel alloy with lots of other metals to a lessor degree. It's about 12" in total length, 1/4" thick. It has a tanto style tip and the blade is wider than the grip (slightly)
The main edge is 25 degrees and serves mainly as a chopping edge (it's heavy enough to serve as a makeshift hatchet) while the tanto point edge is honed at 20 degrees and the lower edge (where the blade widens from the handle) is only 17 degrees for more kitchen like work.
he's driven main blade into a tree-trunk and used it as a step before
Just so you know....Mr Brum happens to be a kick-ass professional knifemaker. Mike Spangler is another one who pops up around NES from time to time.+1 for building your own knife, that is really cool
I'll post up a pic tommorow of a tool/ knife i make that somewhat fits that bill...
its what i call a tac-tool, but i have an idea that i would like to add to it...
i also agree, that a dedicated survival knife should be a fixed blade, just for the strength issues... but with that said, a GOOD quality folder, can get you out of trouble... heck, why not have both!
That of course depends on the survival situation.
In general I try to keep my survival gear light and compact, this increases the chance of having the survival gear available when you need it. Typically this means making sure that each tool you carry is as versital as practical, without sacrificing reliability or capability of performing it's most likely needed features.
A small, packable folding handsaw or bow saw can be extremely useful, and should be considered, on the other hand a dedicated skinner knife is likely wasteful since the function can be served reasonably well with a well designed fixed blade and the skinner is less generally useful.
Now, if I'm going camping for the weekend and I'm taking my car, so I don't have to carry all my gear on my back, I have a larger survival pack in the car, just in case. This kit is more likely to have all of the "right tools for the job" but simply isn't practical to hump through the woods if I get lost on a hike, while hunting or have to ditch the car.