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TUMBLER ADDITIVE?
- Thread starter KAWSAM62
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2009
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- 16,367
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I throw some of the green goo stuff (Lyman?) in once every few months. I've been using the same media for a couple years (probably 5-6 thousand rifle case and another 2-3 thousand pistol) and my brass still comes out shiny. I don't think it's really needed but I like shiny brass.
I tried making my own with car polish and mineral oil. Looked good initially, but cases turned dark fairly quickly.
I'm back to using commercial brass case polish - Frankford Arsenal seems work fine. Stays really shiny for a long time.
I'm back to using commercial brass case polish - Frankford Arsenal seems work fine. Stays really shiny for a long time.
I toss in a capful or two of NuFinish. Not because I like shiny brass, but because I dislike dust.
SJan
NES Member
I don't get the shiny brass thing.
If I did, I wouldn't keep it that way with an additive that can get inside the case as well as on the outside. I'd just throw a piece of VCI paper in the can with the loaded ammo and call it good.
If I did, I wouldn't keep it that way with an additive that can get inside the case as well as on the outside. I'd just throw a piece of VCI paper in the can with the loaded ammo and call it good.
I have found that almost any mild abrasive will work. I have used Frankford Arsenal, Nu Finish, brass polish, and chrome polish with good results. I now use the cheapest stuff I can find or whatever is on hand as everything I have used works well. I also use corn cob grit because it is cheap. This allows me to dump it before a dangerous concentration of lead develops. I know of at least one reloader that developed lead poisoning by breathing dust from over used media.
thx for all the replys everyone!
is the nu finish you are using the car wax liquid or the spray polish? what about turtle wax? I guess it could be bought at say advanced auto parts,napa,pep boys ect?
thx again scott
is the nu finish you are using the car wax liquid or the spray polish? what about turtle wax? I guess it could be bought at say advanced auto parts,napa,pep boys ect?
thx again scott
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I actually tend to go for bright and shiny:
a) Facilitates case inspection.
b) Tend to insure lack of stray lubricant, which can drastically increase the force on the breech face.
c) And I just like bright and shiny!
That said, I'd hesitate to use any wax based product, since they tend to be lubricants.
I use crushed walnut shells, and every once in a while I add a very small amount of powdered jeweler's rouge (ferric oxide) (not the wax-based stuff you buy for putting on a buffing wheel). You can buy a lifetime supply of powdered jeweler's rouge for under $10 as I recall.
a) Facilitates case inspection.
b) Tend to insure lack of stray lubricant, which can drastically increase the force on the breech face.
c) And I just like bright and shiny!
That said, I'd hesitate to use any wax based product, since they tend to be lubricants.
I use crushed walnut shells, and every once in a while I add a very small amount of powdered jeweler's rouge (ferric oxide) (not the wax-based stuff you buy for putting on a buffing wheel). You can buy a lifetime supply of powdered jeweler's rouge for under $10 as I recall.
