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To The Guy At Westwood with the AR10, NF scope, Loud AF Brake and TSUSA Ammo Box

Screw him! What kind of loser actually goes to the range to try and get better?? He should just sit at home and post on NES.
Sounds like the guy is swimming in circles though.

Like years ago i bought a 308 Savage FP10LE... and did the same thing for an hour not realizing the cheap scope that was mounted on the gun was not tightened down... the a**h*** who consigned the rifle just slapped it on there. 🤣
 
It is not the scope
well, in some cases it can be scope, but, well, probably not in this one.
he still hits the headshot at 50yds, so it is a pass.

i do worse now trying to shoot it offhand standing upright. too much wobble in the upper body.
for reference:
1707067841387.png
 
I spent 60 rounds of ammo last week adjusting my 512 the wrong way. Was rather comical.

I always think I am adjusting the POA toward the POI. So when I hit "right", I adjust right.
 
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and trying CCI LRM primers on a 6.5 Brocmoor.
a combined 50/100 sucks, as it mixes wrong crowds. harvard is smarter with a 25/50 and separate 100 and then separate 200/300.

i did not see any real difference in SRP vs LRP, with the same exact brass and powder load. most SD diff comes from the neck tension uniformity.
if you do not have it yet and want to be masochistic :) - this may help:

but i refuse to brush the neck inside for a 100-300 rds batch.
 
a combined 50/100 sucks, as it mixes wrong crowds. harvard is smarter with a 25/50 and separate 100 and then separate 200/300.

i did not see any real difference in SRP vs LRP, with the same exact brass and powder load. most SD diff comes from the neck tension uniformity.
if you do not have it yet and want to be masochistic :) - this may help:

but i refuse to brush the neck inside for a 100-300 rds batch.

This one is combined 10, 25, 50, 100, handgun and shotgun. But the club is great, they don't have an RSO, has steel and no stupid rules. So I will continue shooting here.

Whatever, there is space and good enough to sight a rifle.

I am a member at 3 other ranges for those days when I want to go past 100.
 
This one is combined 10, 25, 50, 100, handgun and shotgun.
so, no archers and crossbows? odd. gotta be more inclusive when going full bananas. :)

r u still using h4350? what es/sd you get there?
 
So what days are you at the range? Trying to figure out if I should go for help or just go on a different day.
 
a combined 50/100 sucks, as it mixes wrong crowds. harvard is smarter with a 25/50 and separate 100 and then separate 200/300.

i did not see any real difference in SRP vs LRP, with the same exact brass and powder load. most SD diff comes from the neck tension uniformity.
if you do not have it yet and want to be masochistic :) - this may help:

but i refuse to brush the neck inside for a 100-300 rds batch.
I saw no difference between LR and LRM.
And I have tried it in several caliber, no difference.

I already go as far as lubing the bullets with dry lube and expanding the necks to .2635.

I also gave up on cleaning brass, only clean the primer hole. I was actually getting slightly better groups out of once fired dirty brass than once fired clean brass.

So my prep now is:
Full size
Trim
Chamfer
Clean primer hole
Prime
Expand neck
 
I saw no difference between LR and LRM.
And I have tried it in several caliber, no difference.

I already go as far as lubing the bullets with dry lube and expanding the necks to .2635.

I also gave up on cleaning brass, only clean the primer hole. I was actually getting slightly better groups out of once fired dirty brass than once fired clean brass.

So my prep now is:
Full size
Trim
Chamfer
Clean primer hole
Prime
Expand neck
magnum is needed for SRP, the cci #450, for large it is not advised, i tried both and non-magnum cci #200 was better, lower SD. 2-5 SD is good.
i would not touch neck on fired brass after .001 resize, and using .002 neck shim on a redding die. no chamfer and no expand needed, really, if we still speak of 308/6.5.
just brushing it inside helps, and annealing helps, of course, if you want to go through that hassle.

the only idea there is - the less you disturb the metal of the neck, the more consistent it will be. same with annealing where it is counterproductive without a machine to control timing.
 
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