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S&W M&P APEX DCAEK Review: Update!
- Thread starter MassMark
- Start date
Good point. It looks like there hasn't been an official ruling (at least they haven't updated the thread on Enos). We'll see if Flork chimes in, I just e-mailed APEX about it.
ETA: I got a robo-reply. They're out at the SHOT show so don't expect a reply for a week or so.
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I just put the DCAEK (that's a mouthful heh) in my M&P45. I have a free-state trigger which was worlds better than the MA trigger, but it's even better now. The pull is reduced, it's similar to a glock with a 3.5 lbs connector. The reset is much more audible and crisper too. It was barely perceptible before.
Very nice. I expect I'll take it to the range this weekend to see how it shoots!
Very nice. I expect I'll take it to the range this weekend to see how it shoots!
I have an M&P 9 withthe heavy pull. I shot my friends today that had a trigger job done and it was night and day. I am wondering if I should have a trigger job done or put in a DCAEK. Any thoughts? I would still have a smith put it in. How about the APEX M&P Competition Action Enhancement Kit?
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No clue on the trigger job vs DCAEK. If you go DCAEK though then you can probably install it yourself, the only "hard" part is replacing the striker block/spring as you have to remove the rear sight. For the other parts, you just need some roll pin punches and some patience.
Maxspeed, the kits are really very easy to install. Think of them as parts removal and replacement as opposed to any heavy duty mechanics. Unless you are not at all mechanically inclined or, work like a bull in a china shop, you can do it.
I carry an M&P 9c and did both the carry kit and RAM install on it. Its a different gun now. Install took all of 30 minutes total over two sessions. I plan on doing the same to my M&P 45 very soon.
I've never fired a smithed M&P for comparison but I've had a few people who have shoot mine since I put in the kit. No one has ever found it to be less than the smithed guns and a couple have liked it better.
Having said all that, nothing wrong with going to a smith if you feel more comfortable with it.
I am mechanically inclined, just don't know my way around the internal workings of a handgun. All things considered would a beginner shooter notice a difference between an APEX kit or just a trigger job? I definately shot much better with my friends trigger job over mine.
What's the Ram install?
What's the Ram install?
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Like I said, I haven't shot both but the folks that have shot mine have been pretty experienced shooters. Based on that, I'd say a beginner wouldn't be likely to notice a tremendous difference between a smithed trigger and the Apex kit.
The RAM is the Reset Assist Mechanism. It increases the feel of the trigger reset giving more of a "click" on the trigger return.
The RAM is separate from the trigger job so, yes, you can put it in after the trigger is done. The RAM will disable the mag disconnect safety but it can be installed on guns with the feature, it will just disable it. My M&P now will fire a round in the chamber with the mag dropped. Why wouldn't you want that?
That was my 1st handgun and my intent was range only. Also with little kids I just figured it was an added safety feature. At the time that I bought it, I had no intent to carry. Since then I have decided to carry and bought a BG380.
We have a new RAM out for the magazine disconnect equipped models, the spring isn't as powerful, but it still achieves a similar result.
https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid45.html
Scott
What would the trigger pull be if I just changed the sear to the appex hard sear in a MA 10# trigger M&P? I'm not sure I want to change all the other parts, just lighten the pull a little. Thanks
From Apex
The Apex Hard Sear was designed to enhance the performance of an already outstanding pistol. The modified geometry will not only improve the over-travel and sear reset characteristics, but will also dramatically reduce the trigger pull weight in most pistols.
From Apex
The Apex Hard Sear was designed to enhance the performance of an already outstanding pistol. The modified geometry will not only improve the over-travel and sear reset characteristics, but will also dramatically reduce the trigger pull weight in most pistols.
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I did just that, installed only the Apex hard sear. You'll lighten the pull much more than 'a little'. In my case I ended up with a pull slightly lighter than I prefer in a carry pistol, but I'll take it any day over the stock sear.
Thanks, I think I'll try just replacing the Hard sear.
Edit: Some google search results show the MA trigger pull with hard sear to be 5# 4oz.
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KMM696
NES Member
I replaced just the sear on a non-MA M&P 45. The pull weight dropped a little from stock, but the most important improvement was losing the crunch in the trigger. Now it actually breaks, instead of the typical M&P 'dragging a dumpster across a parking lot' feel. Well worth it....
The difference between changing just the sear and doing a full DC kit is this:
changing out just the sear gives a lighter pull but it will still have a "shoulder" at the break
doing a full DC kit gives a lighter, smoother trigger that is a joy throughout the cycle
I've done my pistol in pieces - a buddy did the DC kit - my next pistol will be the DC kit + RAM, no question
ymmv
changing out just the sear gives a lighter pull but it will still have a "shoulder" at the break
doing a full DC kit gives a lighter, smoother trigger that is a joy throughout the cycle
I've done my pistol in pieces - a buddy did the DC kit - my next pistol will be the DC kit + RAM, no question
ymmv
Alex Cannella
NES Member
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2006
- Messages
- 375
- Likes
- 139
I just shot my first IDPA match at WPRC this past Saturday after installing the Apex DCAEK and RAM in my full size M&P 9. The gun really performed well and was a blast to shoot. At my first match of the season, I've already posted a better score than all of last year!
I got mine installed this past week. What a difference! It went from dragging a boulder across a boulder field, to a pretty decent trigger. The only problem is, the gun is out of the way so it's pretty obvious that I'm flinching. These nice groups an inch or three below the bullseye [shock]. Guess I should work on that.
Installation was a breeze - except for putting the thing back together after installing the trigger return spring. It, in all seriousness, took me longer to get all the #*&%ing holes lined up to drive the pin through than it did to install the other three parts - and that's even considering the fact that I installed the sear, put the gun together, and then took it down again to install the sear spring (I was expecting the spring kit to arrive much later than it did). I finally got the trigger back together, put the pins in, and...realized that the pin failed to capture the spring (oops..should have tested). I finally ended up basically detail stripping the gun, so that I didn't have to worry about seating the trigger bar into the sear housing.
I had never taken a gun apart that far, before. The furthest I've ever gone was pulling the firing pin from a 1911, other than that, field strip only. Apex Tactical's videos were instrumental in the smooth execution of the install, Randy Lee made it quite clear what needed to be done. It was pretty simple. You basically need a 1/8" roll pin punch, a 1/16" hex driver, and a pair of needle point tweezers. I also used a large punch wrapped in tape to drive the rear sight off, after some mild persuasion it popped right off.
I went for the Duty/Carry kit, over the competition kit. I shot eisenhow's competition-equipped 9L, and while it was a really great trigger, it was a bit scary-light for me, and I felt the trigger reset was a bit mushy. If it wasn't for a complete pain in the arse to install the return spring, I'd strongly consider picking up a stock free-state spring, and the competition kit, just to fiddle with the different combinations until I got my favorite configuration.
I think I was into the kit for about $75, maybe $80, plus shipping. Brownell's was out of all of their springs, so I bought the sear and USB from there and the springs direct from Apex. Brownells has a pretty great discount on the parts, if you have a C&R and get a dealer account with them. While it's annoying that S&W put such an awful trigger on there (and that MA made them put an awful 120000lb trigger on there), I can't really find much to complain about with the Apex DCAEK.
Next up..a RAM and maybe some sights. Oh, and to fix the stupid magazines that came with the gun.
Installation was a breeze - except for putting the thing back together after installing the trigger return spring. It, in all seriousness, took me longer to get all the #*&%ing holes lined up to drive the pin through than it did to install the other three parts - and that's even considering the fact that I installed the sear, put the gun together, and then took it down again to install the sear spring (I was expecting the spring kit to arrive much later than it did). I finally got the trigger back together, put the pins in, and...realized that the pin failed to capture the spring (oops..should have tested). I finally ended up basically detail stripping the gun, so that I didn't have to worry about seating the trigger bar into the sear housing.
I had never taken a gun apart that far, before. The furthest I've ever gone was pulling the firing pin from a 1911, other than that, field strip only. Apex Tactical's videos were instrumental in the smooth execution of the install, Randy Lee made it quite clear what needed to be done. It was pretty simple. You basically need a 1/8" roll pin punch, a 1/16" hex driver, and a pair of needle point tweezers. I also used a large punch wrapped in tape to drive the rear sight off, after some mild persuasion it popped right off.
I went for the Duty/Carry kit, over the competition kit. I shot eisenhow's competition-equipped 9L, and while it was a really great trigger, it was a bit scary-light for me, and I felt the trigger reset was a bit mushy. If it wasn't for a complete pain in the arse to install the return spring, I'd strongly consider picking up a stock free-state spring, and the competition kit, just to fiddle with the different combinations until I got my favorite configuration.
I think I was into the kit for about $75, maybe $80, plus shipping. Brownell's was out of all of their springs, so I bought the sear and USB from there and the springs direct from Apex. Brownells has a pretty great discount on the parts, if you have a C&R and get a dealer account with them. While it's annoying that S&W put such an awful trigger on there (and that MA made them put an awful 120000lb trigger on there), I can't really find much to complain about with the Apex DCAEK.
Next up..a RAM and maybe some sights. Oh, and to fix the stupid magazines that came with the gun.
