Romy G complete

[Tommy Gun]

I just completed my long delayed Romy G build. I had misplaced the bolt and didn't want to buy a replacement knowing as soon as I did I would find it. I checked the head space and went to the range yesterday for a function test. I was a little nervous on the first shot but it functioned fine. I fired 100 rounds without a problem. I wasn't trying to make perfect shots but the groups seemed tight. I still have to put a finish on it and redo the wood but that will probably take another couple of years.
I used an Ohio Ordnance Works receiver and a Tapco fcg that has some slap. I replaced the gas piston and pistol grip so I think I’m good for the compliance parts. The only question that I have been researching is the forward pistol grip, I think it is ok to keep it on.
I will try and get some pictures this weekend.

Tommy

 

[RickG]

I built a Romy G kit last year. They are alot of fun to build and shoot. Did you do a screw build or rivet? I did a screw build and really enjoyed it.

Regarding the compliance parts, If I remember correctly, the trigger group is 3, the gas piston is 1, and the pistol grip is 1. If your kit came with a barrel nut to protect the threads on the end of the barrel you will either need to blind pin it or weld it to make it permanent. You could also get a US made slant brake and make it permanent to add another US made part and improve the looks of the rifle.

I used Gun-Kote on the receiver and exposed metal surfaces and it came out really nice and so far has held up good to shooting. But don't wait to long to treat the naked metal as you will start seeing surface rust before to long.

 

[Tommy Gun]

I used rivets except for the trigger guard. Some of the rivet heads don't look so good but they are fine for me. I used a plate to screw the trigger guard to. I was thinking of adding a US made slant brake because what is there now is loose.

Tommy

 

[RickG]

Just make sure you pin it on whatever you use or else you will be in violation of this states idiotic rules.

 

[Tommy Gun]

I'm having it Silver soldered. This Silver solder has a 1200 degree melting point.

 

[Vintovka]

I'm having it Silver soldered. This Silver solder has a 1200 degree melting point.

I've tried to use silver solder to permanently attach a large AK74-style muzzle brake. I applied the solder paste to the threads and used an oxy-mapp torch to get the compensator to a purple-red color. After quenching and cooling, I tried to remove the brake, which came loose with only a little effort. I plan to try again, this time keeping the paste toward the rear of the brake - hopefully getting the flame into the gap between the muzzle & brake will reduce the amount of heating required. If not, Ill have to pin it.

You may not have the same trouble with a thinner brake such as the slanted one which came with many of the G kits.

 

[Finalygotabeltfed]

I used rivets except for the trigger guard. Some of the rivet heads don't look so good but they are fine for me. I used a plate to screw the trigger guard to. I was thinking of adding a US made slant brake because what is there now is loose.

Tommy

They are supposed to be loose so they don't jam up with carbon and can be removed in the field.

Just because you buy a US made one, doesn't mean its going to be any tighter on the threads or bottom out while lining up with the spring loaded retaining pin. I have a US made one and its just as loose as the originals on three different barrels. If you buy a bunch of them, you may find one that fits a little tighter but it won't be cheap.
The only real reason to have a US made one is for the 922 parts count.