Restoring an old revolver?

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I've come across this interesting piece which was, regrettably, stored in a leather holster in a leather in a humid environment. I'm not sure exactly what it is. It is Nagant-like but I don't have a clear notion of what it is.

It's heavily corroded ... pitted. Nasty. Is it worth restoring? What would be involved?
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does it rotate if you pull the trigger?

what do the cylinder and barrel bores look like? Is the timing good?

If the thing isn't locked up, and the bores look good, you could dis assemble it and have it re blued.
 
does it rotate if you pull the trigger?

what do the cylinder and barrel bores look like? Is the timing good?

If the thing isn't locked up, and the bores look good, you could dis assemble it and have it re blued.

All moving parts seem to move as they're intended to. No sticking or grinding. Bore looks OK from what I can see peering into it. I'd have to take the cylinder out for a closer inspection and I haven't done that yet. The last owner used to shoot .32s through it which suffered from case rupture ... probably was last fired 10 years ago and then was put away.

Is there anyone in Western Mass that could quote me a price on restoration work?
 
Can you read or even see any lettering on the barrel/frame anywhere? There were variants similar to the Nagant pistol from Sweden, France and I think Belgium (probably more). If it were one of those it maybe more rare (not necessaryily more valuable) than a Nagant as they seem to be everywhere for cheap money. Maybe make this a project and do it yourself. If it is too far gone for you to attempt then would a couple of hundred bucks be a worthy investment to have a unique pistol brought back to life? I think it's cool. If you got it for nothing or very cheap then your skill level or wallet will be the determining factor. I'm sure any good gunshop you frequent will be able to recommend someone for a quote. But first you need to determine what it is!! [thinking] Neat gun, good project....enjoy the ride. [smile]
 
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You need to post a pic, more detail about markings, etc and your questions on this forum:

http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/index.php

People on there know the most obscure things !

Thank you, guys. These are the only markings I can find. The Barrel has the same serial number.

Pilgrim, I'll follow up at TheFirearmsForum when I get a chance.

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The corrosion appears to be surficial. The pistol fires fine in single and double action (with a DA trigger pill of maybe 32 pounds).

I'm sure it's restorable, although I have no background in this and would want to turn it over to an experienced individual.
 
Thank you, guys. These are the only markings I can find. The Barrel has the same serial number.

Pilgrim, I'll follow up at TheFirearmsForum when I get a chance.

2008_1103Image0002.jpg


The corrosion appears to be surficial. The pistol fires fine in single and double action (with a DA trigger pill of maybe 32 pounds).

I'm sure it's restorable, although I have no background in this and would want to turn it over to an experienced individual.

Looks like a Webley revolver. That "WF" (not f, but if kinds of looks like it) gives it away. British and likely police issue 38/200. The only other webley was a funky 44ish caliber rimmed handgun round used by the military. Not sure how the guy fired .32s in it other than the .38 webley may have been even smaller than our current .357/.38. Don't know. I will look it up and get back to you because now I am kinda of pumped to find out more.
 
OK, so the webley was not police but british military, or other countries police forces. If it is a webley, and I am doubting that now because I can't find info on one in that caliber, what you have is likely a old police service revolver from the US, imported from Britain. It came in either a .38/200 or an .455 webley (not .44 but my memory plays tricks on me despite my not so advancing age). The .38/200 is, surprise, surprise and .38S&W. Now, a case of deja vu since everyone said it is was impossible to shoot a .38 wad cutter in a .38, but I proved it could theoretically could be done. This is the same issue. Not sure how he got .32s in there but I will not say it is impossible. It also could have been made in other calibers. I will check on that but I can't find anything straight out that anything came in remotely .32 caliber. I may be wrong now.
 
Well, I have found some pics of the webley Mk IV, and that is definitely not it. That's a top loader, but I can't find pics of any other webley model. The octagonal barrel, hammer and handle are very close though. If your grip is not original, that would be even more pointing that way. See for yourself (http://www.collectiblefirearms.com/PistolsWebley.html) what the Mk IV looks like. You will see why I though that at first. The barrel, handle with the tang at the top and the hammer with it's recessed body and fringe along the top. Maybe a cheap knock off. Anyhow, good luck in the search. Can't find a picture of the w mark for webley, just the larger engraved logo but I could swear they had that mark too. Oh well, maybe my mind is playing tricks on me again.
 
http://www.warrelics.eu/forum/firearms-ordnance/2820-swedish-m-87-revolver-cal-7-5mm.html

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Some m/87s were converted in 1954-1957 by Svenska Metallverken to fire the .32 ACP. These were used by the Swedish National Shooting Organization and an all volunteer military organization called "Verkskyddet" (responsible for the protection of important state and civilian facilities such as: State Railways, the Royal Telegraph, the Department of Transportation [responsible for bridges and ferries], all power plants and power distribution companies, as well as some strategically important industries). The revolvers also saw service within the volunteer "Home Guard" units, and was also used by special units working with dogs as late as 1989 - using them to fire blanks when training the dogs. I have enclosed a copy of a 1963 ad in the NRA publication American Rifleman where the pistols were sold for $13.95...(THE GOOD OLD DAYS).
 
I'm resurrecting this thread to ask for advice. I need to restore this semi-rare Swiss Model 1882, or at the very least get it into saleable shape. Can I undertake this myelf with no training, or should I send it out to a professional?

I don't want to reblue it, but clean it to the best possible possible state, preserving as much of the original bluing as I can.

I have another project to fund, and this heirloom has got to go.
 
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