Ok I picked up a Mosin Nagant. I am refinishing the stock. I cleaned it up real nice with crudcutter and then stripped it with citristrip. I got off most of the finish and almost down to bare wood. After that I sweated the wood and this brought it back to pretty much just straight wood. But I noticed there is a few spots on the stock that seem to have cosmoline still soaked into it. Will light sanding make this go away? Or is it safe to sweat the wood again now that its down to barewood with a damp cloth and an iron? Im afraid that the small spots that seem to still have cosmoline in it will make effect how the stain holds when I get to that step. I plan on putting a couple light coatings of waterbased red mahogany then finished it off with tung oil. I plan on making this a display gun so I want it to have a high gloss finish to it. Also does anyone recommend anything other that Tung oil?
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Removing cosmoline from wood
- Thread starter mudd024
- Start date
namedpipes
NES Member
NOBODY else will ever notice the spots. Finish it, sign up for the pumpkin shoot and have at it!
My $0.02.
Sent from my chimney using smoke signals.
My $0.02.
Sent from my chimney using smoke signals.
Pure tung oil will not give you a high shine...it will however look very nice after many coats and allowing it to dry for many days between coats...tung oil takes time.
I'm on my 5 th coat on a 03a3 project. I'm stopping at 8.
I'm on my 5 th coat on a 03a3 project. I'm stopping at 8.
hey where did you get your mosin from? i just did the same thing using the same methos my post is directly below yours, these small spots if visible at all after your stain or oil finish will just add a little character to the stock in my opinion. If you look at the pictures i put up on my stock you'll notice that the lighter areas on the stock which seem to reject the original stain stay there no matter what using the method we used.
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DO NOT sand it unless you are absloutely confident you can do it evenly, particularly since you have plans to stain it.
Then again, no offense, but I wouldn't be using a water stain but an alcohol-based dye since it won't raise the grain as much and will soak deeper into the wood. Chestnut Ridge Milsurp stain works great as well.
Cabinetman, who is here on NES, also mods a sub-forum over on ParallaxBill. Anything and everything you'd ever need to know about stock refinishing: http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/forums/101/C-R-stock-cleaning
Then again, no offense, but I wouldn't be using a water stain but an alcohol-based dye since it won't raise the grain as much and will soak deeper into the wood. Chestnut Ridge Milsurp stain works great as well.
Cabinetman, who is here on NES, also mods a sub-forum over on ParallaxBill. Anything and everything you'd ever need to know about stock refinishing: http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/forums/101/C-R-stock-cleaning
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"Sweating" the wood is not woodworking, but a technique used by MilSurp collectors to remove excess cosmoline in the stock. Heating the stock lightly with a 200W bulb, stove, black trash bag in the sun, etc., causes the cosmoline to liquify and weep out of the stock so it can be wiped off. First sticky on the list plus many personal posts; myself included.
MS
MS
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I have a cheap hand held steaming machine like this that I picked up at Home Depot
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...X&ei=QIZ8UOXfDe2F0QHz5YCQBg&ved=0CHUQ8wIwAjgK
It sweats the cosmo out of the wood easily. I also use it to "melt" all the cosmo off of the disassembled metal parts as well.
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...X&ei=QIZ8UOXfDe2F0QHz5YCQBg&ved=0CHUQ8wIwAjgK
It sweats the cosmo out of the wood easily. I also use it to "melt" all the cosmo off of the disassembled metal parts as well.
I got it at the gun show the other weekend, it aint to bad
namedpipes
NES Member
Loosen them maybe?
![[laugh]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/012.gif "Laugh [laugh]")
I would wax the heck out of the wood and the inside of the bands then slip them on.
Then again, I know nothing about fine woodworking, so this might be a really bad idea. Still, it's what *I* would try.
This +1
Some times the bands are tight. A bit of wax may help. I had to give my 1903a3 a little spot buff and recoat of finish do to the band scratching the finish.... I am in process of redoing my a3 with tung oil. 2 more coats and I'm done!
thats probably what I would do is wax it up a little. Im using the tung oil and its coming out amazing
dcmdon
NES Member
I picked up a trick on cruffler.com several years ago. It was to put the stock in the dishwasher. I've used it for two Carbines and its great. ALLthe cosmoline is removed. It raises the grain a bit, but that's easily dealt with using some new sandpaper.
Remove the stock before the dry cycle starts and give it a few days to dry. It also steams out a lot of the dents.
Remove the stock before the dry cycle starts and give it a few days to dry. It also steams out a lot of the dents.
dcmdon
NES Member
Jesus man, you guys are tenacious. My M1 Carbine lives towards the back of the safe because the trigger makes me want to shoot myself. Fortunately for you all, I'm meeting with my CT State Rep to talk about what is an assault weapon, and I"m bringing the little M1. So its coming out. I'll get some shots over the weekend.
I have to say. It looks great. The metal finish is nearly perfect. Before I did the dishwasher trick, I thought it was stained from the cosmoline.
Don
I have to say. It looks great. The metal finish is nearly perfect. Before I did the dishwasher trick, I thought it was stained from the cosmoline.
Don
Ewwwwhhh a pretty carbine.....no seriously looks nice. BUT I was looking to the OP for pics. Sorry if I emailed you instead of him......still nice rifle
Doesn't CT list the USI carbine as and assault weapon....I mean you have a US Carbine, Cal 30 M1 pictured there .....what is a usi carbine?
Doesn't CT list the USI carbine as and assault weapon....I mean you have a US Carbine, Cal 30 M1 pictured there .....what is a usi carbine?
