Remington 700 PSS - bolt handle does not go all the way down

[andy t]

Greetings,

I got a used Rem 700 PSS a few weeks ago from another member. I had a chance to finally take it to the range today. I chambered a cartridge, took the safety off, press the trigger, Click. Ejectted the cartrige, and the primer didn't look like anything even hit. Upon further inspection, it seems that when the rifle is ready to fire, the bolt handle is not all the way down. Even applying slight pressure (which I shouldn't) it still doesn't go all the way down. I even compared it to a new Remington 700 in the store. The one in the store, had its bolt handle all the way down into the stock's recess.
I haven't done anything to the rifle since I got it. What could be causing this issue?

Thanks,

Andrew.

 

[rscalzo]

To clarify, are you saying the bolt will not go all the way down with a round in the chamber or with the chamber empty?

 

[andy t]

The bolt handle behaves the same way with or without a round. I am able to chamber a round, however, the bolt handle will not go all the way down.
Here are a few pictures:

 

[squarooticus]

Did you install a new scope since you last fired it? If the screws holding the scope mounts on are too long, the bolt will not be able to rotate all the way. I found this out through experience.

Kyle

 

[andy t]

I checked both the scope and action screws. even with them out, the bolt will not fully rotate. When I took the firing pin assembly out, it sill goes down to the same area, and it feels as if it hits something and stops.

 

[Jose]

I checked both the scope and action screws. even with them out, the bolt will not fully rotate. When I took the firing pin assembly out, it sill goes down to the same area, and it feels as if it hits something and stops.

Fixing this is not a DIY job. Bolt action rifles depend on the proper timing of various camming surfaces at the front and rear of the bolt for correct and safe operation.

Take it to a gunsmith or send it back to Remington.

 

[LoginName]

Any obstruction or crud in the locking lugs recess' ?

 

[andy t]

I am an engineer, and supposedly heard of "Occam's Razor" and yet it didn't dawn on me to COMPLETELY remove the front mount. You got it - it was the screw on the front scope mount that was causing the binding. I would have thought Leupold mount would be a little more precise in their screws.

And to think that I wasted a perfectly good day of shooting because of that.

Thanks for your help guys!
By the way in my search I found an interesting forum:

http://benchrest.com

Andrew.

 

[squarooticus]

I would have thought Leupold mount would be a little more precise in their screws.

After I had short screws on a Leupold mount strip out of my receiver, then having to re-tap the holes slightly larger, I resolved to spend the time in the future to properly mount *Weaver* bases and grind screws to the proper length. The extra half-hour per gun is worth the trouble.

And I don't touch Leupold mounts anymore. Their scopes are fine, but their bases are crap, IMO.

Kyle

 

[vellnueve]

I agree with squarooticus. When I bought my PSS, the store gave me a free Leopould base and rings with it. The base sheared off of the gun within ten rounds. As it turned out, the rifle itself had some QC issues as well so I got the mount replaced by Leopould and the rifle replaced by Remington. No issues since.

 

[dreppucci007]

Now, just in my experience, I use Leupold bases and rings with my Leupold scopes.

I have the Remington 700 LTR (just the short fluted barrel version of the PSS), and I put a Leupold Mark 4 1-piece picatinny base with Leupold Mark 4 tactical rings, and they are phenominal...No problems, no nothing. Perhaps for something as powerful as a .308, the standard Leupold 2-piece base, especially when they're not both at least dovetailed, just may not be up to par.

The Mark 4 parts may cost a bit more, but for me though, spending the little extra money from the get-go can prevent any future issues.

Just my 0.02

 

[andy t]

Kyle,
Whose base/rings would you recommend ?

Andrew.

 

[squarooticus]

Kyle,
Whose base/rings would you recommend ?

I use Weaver bases and rings exclusively now, but I make sure the screws are of the right length: if they aren't I buy new tapered screws and cut/grind them to the right length.

Kyle

 

[andy t]

Is weaver considered to be superior to Dovetail? I had a choice when buying my mount/rings and I went with the standard (front dovetail, windage rear) instead of dual dovedail. Is one better than the other? Or is something like badger one piece base is the best solution?

 

[squarooticus]

Is weaver considered to be superior to Dovetail? I had a choice when buying my mount/rings and I went with the standard (front dovetail, windage rear) instead of dual dovedail. Is one better than the other? Or is something like badger one piece base is the best solution?

Ok, you're way out of my league now. Someone else is going to have to address this.

Kyle

 

[vellnueve]

Um... I just put the mounts and rings on and shoot. Any difference that the specific mounting system may have is erased by shooter incompetence.

 

[dreppucci007]

Is weaver considered to be superior to Dovetail? I had a choice when buying my mount/rings and I went with the standard (front dovetail, windage rear) instead of dual dovedail. Is one better than the other? Or is something like badger one piece base is the best solution?

How much $$$ are you willing to spend? A Badger one-piece base will probably not be cheap, BUT it will be well worth the $$$.

If I may, I suggest a one-piece picatinny base, along with the rings to go with it.

Try:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=562717

or

What I have:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=687225


ALONG WITH:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=393863

or

What I have:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=928117


These are both excellent choices, and will hold everything very well.

Again, just my 0.02, but like I mentioned...I'd rather spend a few more bucks to begin with and not have to worry about anything after that.

 

[Jose]

Is weaver considered to be superior to Dovetail?

Yes. You don't need to do a free body diagram to see the superiority of the Weaver (or better yet the military's MIL-STD-1913) system.

Or is something like badger one piece base is the best solution?

Absolutely. Pricey, but it is foolish to skimp on what connects the scope to the rifle.

 

[Jose]

Any difference that the specific mounting system may have is erased by shooter incompetence.

And a scope that changes point of impact at random due to crap bases and rings will never let a shooter become competent.

I prefer to start with equipment better than me, so that my progress is not held back.

But what do I know.........

 

[squarooticus]

And a scope that changes point of impact at random due to crap bases and rings will never let a shooter become competent.

I prefer to start with equipment better than me, so that my progress is not held back.

But what do I know.........

We agree on something!

Kyle

 

[vellnueve]

My bases and rings aren't crap, they just aren't the newest technology. The next time I have $300 available its going into my "buy as many carbines as possible" fund. A new scope mounting system is way down the list.

 

[Cross-X]

If I understand what was happening, the screws on the scope base were causing the bolt to bind.

Does this mean the screw holes had pierced the bore?

 

[jhrosier]

I've used Weaver mounts exclusively since the '60s.
They are not the prettiest, but they always work perfectly, if they are installed correctly.
There is a lot more variation in rifle receivers than you might think.
It is best to install the bases finger tight and then use a straight edge to make sure that the bases are properly aligned and level with each other.
The bases must be aligned closely with each other or the scope will be twisted or bent when it is mounted.
You may have to shim or modify the bases to fit the rifle.
If the screw holes in the gun are not located properly, the holes in the bases may have to be tweaked a little. If the holes are more than 1/64" off location, you may have to buy blank bases and modify them to suit your gun. I've seen a few guns that had to be returned to the maker for repair or replacement due to mislocated mounting holes. It is not common now as it was 40 years ago.

The first thing that an apprentice gunsmith learns is how everone in the shop likes their coffee. The second thing he learns is to check for base screws binding the bolt.
Everyone gets to learn this the hard way, the first time.

If all is well, degrease the parts and then loctite them in place. I use loctite on the screws and under the bases.
A properly hardened screwdriver that fits the screws perfectly is absolutely essential. Brownell's sells screwdrivers that are suitable to the job.
After the bases are installed, the rings should be mounted to the bases finger tight and then pushed towards the muzzle until you hear them seat, and then tightened as tight as you can get them with a quarter.
The scope can then be set into the rings, moved to proper eye relief and leveled.
A small spirit level should be used to level the rifle in a rest. Don't try to do this without the rest and level, nobody is that good.
A weighted string hanging on the opposite wall will allow you to align the vertical crosshair perfectly.
The screws on Weaver rings need to be tightened in rotation, a little bit at a time until they are all equally tight. The design of the rings will cause the scope to tend to rotate as the rings tighten. There is no secret formula to dealing with this. After you have done a few, you will get the feel for it. Expect to adjust your first couple of intallations a half dozen times before you get it right. I don't use loctite on the Weaver ring screws and have never had a scope move on a centerfire rifle, YMMV.

An old gunsmith showed me this method many years ago and it has never failed to work.
If the scope is correctly mounted, in Weaver bases, it can be removed for cleaning the gun and relaced with no change of zero.

 

[andy t]

jhrosier,

Thanks for the tips. I think my next purchase may be a weaver or picattiny scope base.

Darius,

The screw holes, at least on Rem 700 are located on the receiver area and are drilled completely through the receiver. I think this is the case with most pre-drilled mounting holes. Therefore, if a screw is longer than it should be, it willl extned into the bolt lug area and bind the bolt.

 

[Cross-X]

Darius,

The screw holes, at least on Rem 700 are located on the receiver area and are drilled completely through the receiver. I think this is the case with most pre-drilled mounting holes. Therefore, if a screw is longer than it should be, it willl extned into the bolt lug area and bind the bolt.

Thanks! I had no idea that's how it worked. Interesting!