Reloading

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I used to reload lead wadcutters for handgun practise. I stopped when I saw what it was doing to my Glocks barrel. With the increase in ammo prices I`m thinking of starting up again, this time loading jacketed bullets. How significent is the savings?
 
All depends on the volume you shoot.
I go in waves as to how much I can get out to the range so for me it was kind of a do it now and save down the road.

In one season of shooting lightly - I have already recouped 1/3 of the initial cost in savings over buying manufactured ammo.
 
Savings depends on caliber, quality and quantity and source of components purchased and whether you count your time as a factor or count it as hobby time, like tossing a line in the water at your favorite fishing hole.

I can tell you without a bit of doubt that if you reload .45acp, you will be saving at least 50% over store bought ammo. Same goes for .223 and .308.

9mm is iffy depending on where you buy your components.

30.06 is also iffy as its currently available as surplus fairly cheap righ now.....about half the cost of .308.

What caliber are you loading for your Glock?
 
I used to reload lead wadcutters for handgun practise. I stopped when I saw what it was doing to my Glocks barrel. With the increase in ammo prices I`m thinking of starting up again, this time loading jacketed bullets. How significent is the savings?

I have been using hard cast lead bullets in several Glocks with no problems. The .40 and .45 Glocks shoot .401 and .452 sized lead bullets just fine. The 9mm Glock was a bit of a problem as it would shoot industry standard .356 lead bullets. Poor accuracy and keyholing were the problems. A switch to .357 diameter bullets yielded 4 inch groups offhand at 50 yds. If the alloy is good and you use the proper diameter bullet, you should be able to use lead in your Glock.
 
You won't save money by reloading you'll just shoot a LOT more. Plus, you can fine tune your load to your gun. Much better!!!
 
Savings depends on caliber, quality and quantity and source of components purchased and whether you count your time as a factor or count it as hobby time, like tossing a line in the water at your favorite fishing hole.

I can tell you without a bit of doubt that if you reload .45acp, you will be saving at least 50% over store bought ammo. Same goes for .223 and .308.

9mm is iffy depending on where you buy your components.

30.06 is also iffy as its currently available as surplus fairly cheap righ now.....about half the cost of .308.

What caliber are you loading for your Glock?
********
40 S&W.
 
Lead bullets

I have been using hard cast lead bullets in several Glocks with no problems. The .40 and .45 Glocks shoot .401 and .452 sized lead bullets just fine. The 9mm Glock was a bit of a problem as it would shoot industry standard .356 lead bullets. Poor accuracy and keyholing were the problems. A switch to .357 diameter bullets yielded 4 inch groups offhand at 50 yds. If the alloy is good and you use the proper diameter bullet, you should be able to use lead in your Glock.
*****
Getting the lead out of the barrell was brutal. No cleaning solution would work. I had to get those messy cloths and cut them up to the size of a patch and ram them thru the barrell. It would scrap the lead of the inside of the barrell. It was a bitch.
 
*****
Getting the lead out of the barrell was brutal. No cleaning solution would work. I had to get those messy cloths and cut them up to the size of a patch and ram them thru the barrell. It would scrap the lead of the inside of the barrell. It was a bitch.

You must have used a soft alloy. I put about 300 rounds of hard cast lead (92/6/2 alloy) through my 22 a couple of weeks ago and had no trouble cleaning the barrel. I used M Pro 7 and a patch of "Chore Boy" pad. I have been doing this for over 10 years with no problems.
 
Try shooting a clip of FMJ every 100 rounds to clean out the lead. It cleans the lead out of my Beretta and S&W's.

Stay away for the soft lead. It will cause you a lot of work.
 
*****
Getting the lead out of the barrell was brutal. No cleaning solution would work. I had to get those messy cloths and cut them up to the size of a patch and ram them thru the barrell. It would scrap the lead of the inside of the barrell. It was a bitch.

Next time, if there is a next time, you could use the Outers Foul Out system. This reverse electrolysis system removes copper or lead buildup, depending on the chemical solution used.
 
As you already found out you should never shoot lead out of a Glock barrel. I bought my powder and primers 3 years ago before the prices skyrocketed and use once fired brass. 50/$5.29 and 100/$10.57 for .40 everyday pet loads. I use Zero 180 gr. JHP's.
 
Try shooting a clip [sic[ of FMJ every 100 rounds to clean out the lead. It cleans the lead out of my Beretta and S&W's.

Stay away for [sic] the soft lead. It will cause you a lot of work.

Second the motion. I got into the habit of sending a few jacketed rounds through my guns after a lead session years ago, after a new Ruger fouled so badly I had to buy a Lewis Lead Remover.

The only time I fired anything other than hard-cast lead was the very few competitions where a swaged HBWC was called for. I ended those matches with a few jacketed cleaning rounds.

This worked even in my Glock 23. I'd load a few jacketed rounds at the bottom of the last mags of the match and never had a fouling or pressure problem.
 
Savings depends on caliber, quality and quantity and source of components purchased and whether you count your time as a factor or count it as hobby time, like tossing a line in the water at your favorite fishing hole.

I can tell you without a bit of doubt that if you reload .45acp, you will be saving at least 50% over store bought ammo. Same goes for .223 and .308.

9mm is iffy depending on where you buy your components.

30.06 is also iffy as its currently available as surplus fairly cheap righ now.....about half the cost of .308.

What caliber are you loading for your Glock?
********
40S&W.
 
Presses

What are you guys using for presses? I used to have a Dillon progressive. I see the Lee is very cheap but i`m wondering how long they last.
I don`t remember what brand lead wadcutters I was shooting but they messed up my G23`s barrel. What hard lead bullets do you guys load and where are you buying them?
I would be shooting the reloads from my G22 and 23 and my S&W M&P.
 
What are you guys using for presses? I used to have a Dillon progressive. I see the Lee is very cheap but i`m wondering how long they last.
I don`t remember what brand lead wadcutters I was shooting but they messed up my G23`s barrel. What hard lead bullets do you guys load and where are you buying them?
I would be shooting the reloads from my G22 and 23 and my S&W M&P.


First off I never shoot lead out of any of my guns. To me it's just not worth the hassle and risk. Lead bullets tend to gum up the dies on my press and that causes problems. Shooting exposes us to lead more than is prob. safe but using a full lead bullet just adds to this concern. Plus, when shooting lead there is always more smoke in which you will inevitably be breathing.

As for the Lee you said the operative word "CHEAP" because that is what they are. Cheap to buy yes, but cheaply made. I have a Lee Progressive 1000 and it isn't a very good piece of equipment. I'm not telling you that you need to buy a Dillon but you should seriously consider it. I know a few great shooters that use the Lee's with good results but I never had any luck with mine.

If you don't mind constantly adjusting things and clearing jams and pulling primers out of the shellplate then get the Lee. The Dillon 550 would be my recommendation or even check out the LNL by Hornady. I know they've been having issues with the LNL but it seems to be a pretty good alternative.
 
If lead is an issue, but jacketed costs too much, I suggest poly-coated bullets. I find them VERY economical and quite clean. Smoke is not an issue, either.

As for presses, I have 2 Dillon 550's; however, I would probably buy a Hornady LNL if I were now starting from scratch. It is a true progressive for a semi-progressive price and has a better powder measure.

1,000 bullets for the cost of shipping doesn't hurt, either. [wink]
 
Poly-Coated bullets

If lead is an issue, but jacketed costs too much, I suggest poly-coated bullets. I find them VERY economical and quite clean. Smoke is not an issue, either.

As for presses, I have 2 Dillon 550's; however, I would probably buy a Hornady LNL if I were now starting from scratch. It is a true progressive for a semi-progressive price and has a better powder measure.

1,000 bullets for the cost of shipping doesn't hurt, either. [wink]
******
Scriv
Where are you getting these bullets. Brand? Cost?
 
******
Scriv
Where are you getting these bullets. Brand? Cost?

Back in September, it was about $195 - 175/case (2,250 for 200 grain .45; 2,500 for 180 grain .40). It's probably 15% higher by now, if not more. I'd ordered in July from my usual source at about $25 less, but that company - like one of the two above - is gone.
 
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