Reloading manuals.

[Bugs100]

I just got the new Hornaday manual and want to get at least 2 more different manuals to use along with it.

Can any one suggest a couple of books and where to get them?

 

[highlander]

The latest Lyman handbook #48 I believe and a Speer manual #13

 

[jhrosier]

The Lee manual is good, especially if you are a beginner.
The Lyman manuals have a lot of cast bullet loads for pistol and rifle.
Over the years, I've always found the Lyman manual more usefull than the others.
Loading data seems to evolve slowly so I wouldn't pass up a recent previous edition of any manual for a good price.
Ebay is good for older versions of the manuals.
If I'm looking for any kind of gun books, I always check out Amazon.com.
Midway and some others offer "loadbooks", which are compiled from all of the popular loading manuals, but for a single caliber.
There is a lot of data online from the powder makers

 

[coastie]

Lyman 48, Speer, Sierra, all great manuals. My favorite is the Lyman. There are also a tremendous amount of resources on line. All the powder manufacturers have good websites with reloading data available. www.hodgdon.com is one of the best with Hodgdon, Winchester and IMR powders listed. If you call or email the bullets companies they will email you data on specific cartridges from their latest manual.

 

[rscalzo]

I use the Lyman #48. Many of the powder manufacturers have their load data online.

http://home.comcast.net/~americanfirearmpage/reloading.htm

 

[Scrivener]

Don't forget to check the powder manufacturers' websites. As they make the powders, they have a good idea of what to use and in what quantity.

 

[Bugs100]

A lot of the data that you read gives no data on what primer to use. Even the primer manufactors like Winchester are vauge and only list what types they make.

Researching primers on the web, one thing that surprised me was Lee advises not to use Federal primers.

Also there was a story recently on one of the major forums by a guy who had a major explosion and got hurt by his primer tube blowing up with 100 Federals in it.

Hornaday says this is the main reason they have a steel tube incasing their primer tubes.

 

[Scrivener]

Hornaday says this is the main reason they have a steel tube incasing [sic] their [sic] primer tubes.

Note that Dillon uses a steel pipe, larger than the aluminum primer tube, to encase its primer tube, also. I've never had one blow; not even when seating, but it's nice to know I've got protection!

As far as primers; it is either large or small; pistol or rifle for basic data. The only time I see special notations is if a magnum primer is used.

I don't even buy SP primers any more. Small Rifle primers are the same size; I need them for .223 and the race gun, they are a good idea in .40 and won't hurt in anything else. The price is the same, so I see no point in cluttering up the inventory.

 

[matt]

I just got the new Hornaday manual and want to get at least 2 more different manuals to use along with it.

Can any one suggest a couple of books and where to get them?

I use the Lyman #48 and powder manufacturer web sites.

Researching primers on the web, one thing that surprised me was Lee advises not to use Federal primers.

Also there was a story recently on one of the major forums by a guy who had a major explosion and got hurt by his primer tube blowing up with 100 Federals in it.

Hornaday says this is the main reason they have a steel tube incasing their primer tubes.

Lee claims this is an advantage of the tray method of primer feeding. They say it is less prone to mass explosion. Not sure if it is true.

 

[Adam_MA]

I refuse to use Federal primers any more. They are too damn soft, and I can see no advantage over taking the risk. I had one instance where I seated the primer exactly flush with the bottom of the case. When I closed the bolt on my rifle, I noticed something felt strange. I opened the bolt, and extracted the round. I looked at the primer, and almost the entire primer cup had been ripped apart from the smooth bolt face touching it.

BTW, out of all the reloading manuals I have, I find myself using the Lyman #48 almost exclusively.

 

[Ray P]

...Researching primers on the web, one thing that surprised me was Lee advises not to use Federal primers.

Also there was a story recently on one of the major forums by a guy who had a major explosion and got hurt by his primer tube blowing up with 100 Federals in it...

Saturday I loaded 100 rds of .32 H&R Magnum using Federal 100s (small pistol primer), and it will be the last time I use them. I was deforming the primers using a RCBS hand primer. Never had this problem using CCI primers (small pistol for 9mm, and large rifle for 45-70).

 

[Scrivener]

Try Winchester.

Won't deform like Federals; won't take a sledgehammer to detonate them, unlike CCI.

 

[Ray P]

Try Winchester.

Won't deform like Federals; won't take a sledgehammer to detonate them, unlike CCI.

Thanks! A couple of reloaders at the falling plates shoot in North Berwick use Winch exclusively. Certainly worth trying. I'll pick up a couple trays tomorrow.

 

[Scrivener]

Trays? Be serious.

Anything less than a brick is really a waste. I now buy my primers a case at a time, to get the volume discount and beat FURTHER price hikes.

 

[adweisbe]

Not a fan of the Speer manual. Bottom line is that it has very little data in the pistol calibers I shoot.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Trays? Be serious.

Anything less than a brick is really a waste. I now buy my primers a case at a time, to get the volume discount and beat FURTHER price hikes.

Cases?

What a wuss!

Seriously - I got in a deal about a year ago where I bought 50,000 large pistol primers (CCI - sledgehammer notwithstanding Scrivener) for $700. I'm feeling like a genius right now.

 

[Scrivener]

Cases?

What a wuss!

Seriously - I got in a deal about a year ago where I bought 50,000 large pistol primers (CCI - sledgehammer notwithstanding Scrivener) for $700. I'm feeling like a genius right now.

50,000 is ten cases; You paid $70/case. Barely 1 year ago, I managed to get a brick of SP at the spring Marlboro show for $15; that would be $75/case. Since then - basically since December - primers have gone to a DEALER cost of$20/brick or $100/case.

Your $700 investment probably gave you a lifetime supply of LP primers at ever-increasing savings.

Oh - I used to use CCI primers, just as I used to buy cases of its .22 LR ammo. I had way too many FTF's with them, so switched. I've been using Winchester because it's primers are available, reasonable and reliable. The guys at Hopkinton turned me on to them and I've not looked back since.

Never a problem with the CCI .22 ammo; I just find the Federal or Winchester more cost-effective and no plastic overpackaging.

 

[Ray P]

Trays? Be serious.

Anything less than a brick is really a waste. I now buy my primers a case at a time, to get the volume discount and beat FURTHER price hikes.

Still in the early learning phases. So far, I've loaded 100 rds each of 9x19 and 7.62x39, and about 200 rds each of 45-70 and .32 H&R mag. Very glad I didn't buy a brick of either Federal or CCI primers, as I'm still playing with small batches.

As is, I wish powder companies sold 2 or 4 oz samplers. (7000/4 = 1750 grains) That would be more than enough to see if it will work up a load you like.

So far, the most helpful reloading book I have is Coastie's old (47th edition) Lyman's manual. Thanks, Coastie! The "one caliber" books I had been using are OK, but there is so little in them you can't get from the on-line powder sites.