Progressive reloading dillon 650

[RK1717]

Hello,

I'm trying to understand progressive reloading.

If I take 1 once fired brass let's say lake city. Wouldn't I still have to trim the cases and swag them outside of the machine. Now if I trim to the recommended size for 223. Now each time I fire that round it will expand a little in length. Now I know that most reloaders don't trim every time. Just as long as it's under 1.76in, seems to be the general consensus online.

But in theory wouldn't the first round of brass have to be processed the slow way. Basically after firing a factory round I still would have to do all the things I really don't want to do, such as trim, chamfer, swag the primer pocket?

Now I believe there is a case trimmer for dillon? But then my concern would be the lube. After resizing the brass I like to wet tumble my brass since tiny brass shavings get stuck in the cuter when trimming and screw with even cutting.

Is there any way to avoid my petty concerns? Because I feel like even those it's a multi stage device I would really only be using 2 stages at a time.

Example.

1st stage
1. Resize and deprime
2. Trim

Wet tumble

2nd stage
1. Primer
2. Powder
3. Seating bullet.

Thank you




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[EddieCoyle]

For bottleneck rifle cases, If you're dry tumbling, the steps are:

Clean
Lube
Resize
Remove Lube
Trim
Chamfer/deburr
Remove primer pocket crimp
Prime
Charge
Seat

For wet tumbling it's:

Deprime
Clean
Dry
Lube
Resize
Remove the lube
Trim
Chamfer/deburr
Remove the primer crimp
Prime
Charge
Seat

I dry tumble and load on a Dillon 650, so I run the cases through the press twice (Once to resize, and after finishing the case prep one more time to prime, charge, and seat)

Some people do not deprime before wet tumbling. I find that if I don't, the stainless steel pins get stuck in the flash holes and I end up breaking off decapping pins.

I usually trim to the minimum length and then carefully set my sizing die to minimize case stretch. For some calibers (like .223) the primer pockets loosen up before I have to trim the cases again.

 

[akma]

Also annealing every now and then for bottle neck cases.

 

[mac1911]

The only solution really is you would have to either by cases that a pre processed to the point of
Cleaned, de cap , sized and trim or send your brass to someone who preps brass for you.

I suppose if there is room on the 650 you could resize , use the Dillon trim attachment and continue loading if press allows this set up?

If I had the Dillon I might set up de cap, resize and trim in large batches.....Basically I would process all my brass. Then I would run the processed brass as needed.

Basically your right it's a 2 stage progressive press when it comes to bottle neck cases.

I,will echo EC note on adjusting the resize die to minimize case stretch. This has really helped with my garand brass.

 

[xtry51]

For bottleneck rifle cases, If you're dry tumbling, the steps are:

Clean
Lube
Resize
Remove Lube
Trim
Chamfer/deburr
Remove primer pocket crimp
Prime
Charge
Seat

For wet tumbling it's:

Deprime
Clean
Dry
Lube
Resize
Remove the lube
Trim
Chamfer/deburr
Remove the primer crimp
Prime
Charge
Seat

I dry tumble and load on a Dillon 650, so I run the cases through the press twice (Once to resize, and after finishing the case prep one more time to prime, charge, and seat)

Some people do not deprime before wet tumbling. I find that if I don't, the stainless steel pins get stuck in the flash holes and I end up breaking off decapping pins.

I usually trim to the minimum length and then carefully set my sizing die to minimize case stretch. For some calibers (like .223) the primer pockets loosen up before I have to trim the cases again.

I dry tumble, but I don't remove the lube after resizing .223. I leave it on and always have. I'm using lanolin.

 

[beaker]

In the 650 you can resize/decap and trim on the same setup, that's about it. I recommend that with the dillon trimmer you always resize and decap in station 1 before trimming and don't rely on the trim die for resizing. I do this with big batches of once fired brass like you say, then chamfer and remove the crimp and dry tumble to remove the lube. Put them in a tote as prepped brass, then I load them till they need trimming again.

The only solution really is you would have to either by cases that a pre processed to the point of
Cleaned, de cap , sized and trim or send your brass to someone who preps brass for you.

I suppose if there is room on the 650 you could resize , use the Dillon trim attachment and continue loading if press allows this set up?

If I had the Dillon I might set up de cap, resize and trim in large batches.....Basically I would process all my brass. Then I would run the processed brass as needed.

Basically your right it's a 2 stage progressive press when it comes to bottle neck cases.

I,will echo EC note on adjusting the resize die to minimize case stretch. This has really helped with my garand brass.

 

[EddieCoyle]

I dry tumble, but I don't remove the lube after resizing .223. I leave it on and always have. I'm using lanolin.

You shoot it with the lube still on it?

 

[xtry51]

You shoot it with the lube still on it?

Yup. Still haven't seen any bolt wear or marks indicating excessive bolt thrust on bolt face versus removing lube. I ran 1,300 rds without cleaning my rifle over 3 days training a few weeks ago. I suffered two malfunctions during that training. One was a double feed that was my fault not seating mag fully before dropping bolt. Second was a FTE due to rim rounded off on a case that's been reloaded 5 times.

I also haven't noticed any issues with the chamber being any dirtier than normal.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Yup. Still haven't seen any bolt wear or marks indicating excessive bolt thrust on bolt face versus removing lube. I ran 1,300 rds without cleaning my rifle over 3 days training a few weeks ago. I suffered two malfunctions during that training. One was a double feed that was my fault not seating mag fully before dropping bolt. Second was a FTE due to rim rounded off on a case that's been reloaded 5 times.

I also haven't noticed any issues with the chamber being any dirtier than normal.

Interesting.

I used to clean the lube off mine after I trimmed the cases. One day while trimming, the plexiglass shield on my Giraud shattered. When I called them to get a replacement, the lady that answered the phone asked me, "Were you trimming cases with lube on them?" I replied that I was, and she told me that was what caused the shield to break, and that I should clean them before trimming.

I've cleaned the lube off before trimming ever since. No big deal - I just put them in the tumbler for 1/2 hour.

 

[RK1717]

Interesting.

I used to clean the lube off mine after I trimmed the cases. One day while trimming, the plexiglass shield on my Giraud shattered. When I called them to get a replacement, the lady that answered the phone asked me, "Were you trimming cases with lube on them?" I replied that I was, and she told me that was what caused the shield to break, and that I should clean them before trimming.

I've cleaned the lube off before trimming ever since. No big deal - I just put them in the tumbler for 1/2 hour.

That seems like a poor excuse for the plexi to break. But I've always done it because the lube sticks the shavings and gets into the shoulder area giving me uneven cutting.

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[EddieCoyle]

That seems like a poor excuse for the plexi to break. But I've always done it because the lube sticks the shavings and gets into the shoulder area giving me uneven cutting.

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I'd do it anyway in case I drop the ammo in the dirt at some point.

 

[timbo]

Interesting.

I used to clean the lube off mine after I trimmed the cases. One day while trimming, the plexiglass shield on my Giraud shattered. When I called them to get a replacement, the lady that answered the phone asked me, "Were you trimming cases with lube on them?" I replied that I was, and she told me that was what caused the shield to break, and that I should clean them before trimming.

I've cleaned the lube off before trimming ever since. No big deal - I just put them in the tumbler for 1/2 hour.

EC, why would the plexi break? Does something in the case lube weaken the plexi or am I missing the obvious here? Just curious.

 

[EddieCoyle]

EC, why would the plexi break? Does something in the case lube weaken the plexi or am I missing the obvious here? Just curious.

I don't know. The piece is bent prety severely, so I would imagine there are internal stresses. Perhaps a chemical in the lube reacts with the inside of the shield in a way that stresses it enough for it to spiderweb.

 

[timbo]

I don't know. The piece is bent prety severely, so I would imagine there are internal stresses. Perhaps a chemical in the lube reacts with the inside of the shield in a way that stresses it enough for it to spiderweb.

Interesting....I found a page that shows what chemicals affect Plexi and it seems that a lot of alcohols affect it, if not immediately, then after a period of time, some only after a few days of exposure. Many of us use lanolin thinned by alcohol for case lubricant. Who'd a thunk it?

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Plastics_Library/Chemical-Resistance-of-Plexiglass-Acrylic

 

[beaker]

Alcohol and Plexiglass is a bad combination. Polycarbonate would be a better material choice for the guard, but it costs a lot more.

Interesting....I found a page that shows what chemicals affect Plexi and it seems that a lot of alcohols affect it, if not immediately, then after a period of time, some only after a few days of exposure. Many of us use lanolin thinned by alcohol for case lubricant. Who'd a thunk it?

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Plastics_Library/Chemical-Resistance-of-Plexiglass-Acrylic

 

[EddieCoyle]

I would think that any alcohol would be long gone by the time the cases make it to the trimmer.

 

[timbo]

I would think that any alcohol would be long gone by the time the cases make it to the trimmer.

Yup...I didn't think about that.

 

[mac1911]

I dry tumble, but I don't remove the lube after resizing .223. I leave it on and always have. I'm using lanolin.

I have tried this, no matter what lube I use the cases pick up all sorts of shit. Especially when trimming.
Now that I use lanolin I don't like how it seems to get on everything.

 

[xtry51]

I have tried this, no matter what lube I use the cases pick up all sorts of shit. Especially when trimming.
Now that I use lanolin I don't like how it seems to get on everything.

If it's getting everywhere and that sticky you're using WAY too much. Thin out your mix more and use less. My cases aren't sticky. I also trim on a Giraud so there's zero issue with brass chip containment.

- - - Updated - - -

I'm using lanolin, home mix not Dillon.

 

[mac1911]

If it's getting everywhere and that sticky you're using WAY too much. Thin out your mix more and use less. My cases aren't sticky. I also trim on a Giraud so there's zero issue with brass chip containment.

- - - Updated - - -

I'm using lanolin, home mix not Dillon.

It's not really sticky to the touch , just seems to pick up every little piece of powder or brass trimmings.