new beretta 92fs "failure to feed" malfunctions

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gs71

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I figured I’d share. I am new to guns. Especially to semi-auto pistols. 2 weeks ago, I got myself a new Beretta 92FS. Brand new.. factory oil, etc.
Well, I wiped that factory oil down a bit and went straight to the MFS range with a box of 9mm ammo(I think it was Federal). Btw, my Beretta came with 2x 10 round factory mags. Started shooting and on the second or 3rd shot round stuck on the way to barrel at about 45 degree angle , so I had to push it in with the slide manually… and…. next one as well… Or, btw, few times shells got stuck as well.
So I guess, I had 3-4 "failure to feed" malfunctions per 10 round magazine (!). First I thought it was my ammo (since Beretta’s are known for their reliability to send a round to the chamber). Then, I was told by someone that I should not worry since my gun simple need to be “broke-in”. I was advised to shoot 300-400 rounds and if problem is still there, contact the manufacture. And... I was also suggested that my new factory magazines could cause the issue and I simply need to try some different magazines.
Well, none of the above. I figured the issue.. my gun was simply too dry(!) Once oiled (next day) I had no issues at all.. same ammo, same mags, and NO PROBLEM! Love the way it performed!
I guess Berettas kinda need to run a little wet(especially the slide) in order to perform without FTF malfunctions.
Just sharing in case somebody else will run into the similar issue.

Not sure if I posted this to the right tread, if not, sorry, and feel free to move it.
Thanks
 
running the brand new gun dry and with new mags with extremely stiff springs? unsurprising that you had problems. it'll get better, i've found my 92 to be a great shooter and gun overall. was my first firearm purchase.
 
My first pistol was 96fs inox bought it new it was a peice of crap and it was sent back to beretta twice. The only thing it did well was ftf fte. I got my money back @ fs and bought a p226 and never looked back.
 
i was actually thinking about P226. but price was bit higher and i like both of them.... i got my new 92fs for around $500, and the cheapest new P226 i could find was $850. so i figured, i'd invest extra $350 into ammo. but maby one day....
 
gs71 said:
factory oil, etc.
Well, I wiped that factory oil down a bit and went straight to the MFS range
Click to expand...

As my mechanic likes to say, "Well there's your problem."

For any new shooters reading this, factory oil is more for protection (rust prevention) and less for lubrication (that's why it's on there so generously). However, it's better than nothing - wipe it away, and you're running a new gun dry. And although most defensive pistols will shoot fine out of the box, it's considered good habit to strip and inspect any new gun (whether it's "new" or "new to you"), then oil, reassemble and function check before you take it to the range.

My brother-in-law is a gunsmith and works out of a retail shop in FL, and he shared a story with me this weekend about a guy who bought a new gun, shot a squib his first time out, and returned the gun to the shop with the squib still in the barrel - and some dumb ass kid behind the counter put the gun back in the display without inspecting it. Fortunately my BiL is a nosy son-of-a-bitch and took the gun out to "play" with it before it was sold, and noticed the squib.
 
i learned the same lesson the hard way. now i field strip and lubricate EVERY firearm I own with froglube prior to shooting it. factory oil is mostly to protect the finish and keep it from rusting on the shelf...high grade lubricants and hi temp grease are required for full function shooting. lesson learned...there's no one on this forum that hasn't made a rookie mistake before.

are you using just oil, or are you using grease also?

i've cleaned many M9's (92FS) for the Marine Corps, and have reccomended the use of grease for the slide rails, but they don't want to hear it. I'd give it a shot and see how it works for you. usually i put grease on all the parts that look like metal on metal is wearing (they're usually shiny)

-Mike
 
Only was using Hoppe's Lubricating Oil, no grease, but just ordered the M-Pro 7 Gun Oil LPX(I’ve heard some good things about it). will give it a shot with grease as well. Thanks
 
My first gun was 92FS and is still my most reliable. I had the exact same problem as you until I field stripped it and oiled her up big time. After about 300 rounds down the pipe she'll work under any condition. Clean the snot out of her now, lube her up and get back to the range.

- - - Updated - - -

atilla said:
running the brand new gun dry and with new mags with extremely stiff springs? unsurprising that you had problems. it'll get better, i've found my 92 to be a great shooter and gun overall. was my first firearm purchase.
Click to expand...

Do you still own it and would you consider ever selling or trading it?

For some reason I can not part with mine... she was my first time!
 
I had the same problem with the range gun Beretta 92 fs. After wiping her down a bit with the Remington Oil wipes, the failure to feed stopped. There was still the problem with the slider not locking back after the last round.
I shot her to I to compare her with my SIG 226. I think the Beretta shoots very nice with a very gentle recoil.
The SIG 226 feels more solid and reliable though.
 
Same exact thing happened with my Ruger LC9, first night out shot 100 rounds and had 3-5 "Failures to return to battery". Went home field stripped and lubbed and now 357 rounds and counting malfunctions-free.
 
My first new gun was a 92FS INOX born in the USA in 1998 (I think). Same thing happened to me, I just oiled/greased it up right there at the range. The second time it happened was after it was in storage for about 7+ years. Oil/grease in the right places and it's good to go. As stated above, most factory lubrication is for preservation.

I've considered selling mine a time or two but they don't make them like this anymore. They've gone and replaced quite a few of the stainless/shiney bits with black bits on the US made ones. Mine has the stainless trigger, mag release, safety, slide lock, hammer, etc, where the ones made now just look odd with the black bits with all the shiney stainless/aluminum. I do think the grips are better on the newer ones, but grips can be replaced.
 
slap shot said:
What specific brand or type of grease is recommended?
Click to expand...

I use Beretta oil because it's a nice light oil and it comes in either a small squeeze bottle or a big spray can. Similar concept to RemOil I guess and it's probably just a marketing thing by Beretta. Beretta oil is a very fine, clear oil, it doesn't smell very strong either. You can probably buy the oil cheaper from somewhere other than Beretta's website:

http://www.berettausa.com/products/genuine-beretta-gun-oil-25ml/ol32000209/

http://www.berettausa.com/products/genuine-beretta-gun-oil-125-ml/
 
My 92fs out of the box refused to engage the mag release easily until I had broken it in. Same deal here, just need to break in the mags and gun.
 
I'm not one of those clean-a-holics that cleans after every use. I do clean them when they NEED to be cleaned. (exception of CCW).
My 92FS had the same problem until I used a tad of Mobil 1 red synthetic grease (very popular with the CMP Garand shooters) to the rails in between cleaning.
Haven't had the problem since.
 
BillO said:
I'm not one of those clean-a-holics that cleans after every use. I do clean them when they NEED to be cleaned. (exception of CCW).
My 92FS had the same problem until I used a tad of Mobil 1 red synthetic grease (very popular with the CMP Garand shooters) to the rails in between cleaning.
Haven't had the problem since.
Click to expand...

The Mobil 1 synthetic is pretty good stuff, I really like it. Another good one is Lucas Oil's Red n Tacky, very similar to the Mobil 1 red synthetic, If I can't find one I'd buy the other.
 
My recommendation is ditch the 10rd mags and find some 15rd mags. When chambering from the 10rd mags in my Beretta every now and then a round will nosedive and not feed, with the 15rd mags I haven't had a single problem. The 10rd mags are dimpled the whole length of the mag essentially turning it into a single stack. They are very stiff to load/unload where the 15rd mags are extremely smooth.

As others said make sure to keep the gun well lubricated. On any steel on aluminum guns I prefer grease over oil, I use Brownells Action Lube which is a molly grease and works great.

just ordered the M-Pro 7 Gun Oil LPX(I’ve heard some good things about it). will give it a shot with grease as well. Thanks
Click to expand...

If I am going to use oil over grease, I found M-Pro 7 to be the best gun oil out there, and I have tried them all.
 
Last edited:
dragline45 said:
My recommendation is ditch the 10rd mags and find some 15rd mags. When chambering from the 10rd mags in my Beretta every now and then a round will nosedive and not feed, with the 15rd mags I haven't had a single problem. The 10rd mags are dimpled the whole length of the mag essentially turning it into a single stack. They are very stiff to load/unload where the 15rd mags are extremely smooth.

As others said make sure to keep the gun well lubricated. On any steel on aluminum guns I prefer grease over oil, I use Brownells Action Lube which is a molly grease and works great.



If I am going to use oil over grease, I found M-Pro 7 to be the best gun oil out there, and I have tried them all.
Click to expand...

My wife likes it becasue it doesn't stink as bad as the other oils I have. It's pretty decent stuff.
 
My new Beretta had a myrial of details that cured my FTF.. I had them all - Stovepipes, double feed, failure to eject. Etc,.
Magazine- Buggers and mould flashing causing follower to stick. Front lip of mag has a stamping burr that caught the brass case lip from time to time. The recoil spring and rod had binding issues.
Cured with a fine file and replacing the plastic recoil rod with Berettas factory steel rod. ( they wouldn't have one if there were no issues)

My lube is 0 weight synthetic motor oil- Sticks to the metal and will not stiffen or gum up when cold nor run off when hot.

My guess is production QC lacks from time to time.
Case closed
 

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