Need input on building a work bench

[TonyDedo]

Hi guys,

I hope this is close enough to a shooting topic to fit in the general discussion forum. I'm building a workbench to I can set up my reloading equipment. Unfortunately, I've never been much of a handyman, so I'm coming up short in one department.

Specifically, I don't know what material to use for the working surface of the table. The guy at Home Depot told me to use plywood or pine boards, but those woods seem awfully soft (and he didn't seem to know what he was talking about). I'm more than likely to miss my target and hit the bench with a hammer every once in a while, so I want a material that's going to be hard and flat. I know most of you guys are handy around the house - any suggestions for a working surface? Thanks!

Cheers!

-Chris

 

[vellnueve]

I'd actually make the bench and top out of 2x4s and then use a thick (quarter to a half inch or so) MDF board on top. It's clean, doesn't splinter. It will get damaged more easily than many woods but I like it anyway. Fasten it with a minimum number of screws so that you can replace it if you damage it. This protects the structural 2x4s that support the surface because they won't get hit with anything.

 

[LoginName]

I've built at least 4-5 rock solid work benches using nothing more than 2x4s (for support) and 2x6s (for table top), 3/8ths plywood, lag bolts,washers and drywall screws.

On my current one, I put down a layer of vinyl ribbed rubber (easy to clean up, and keeps parts/ items from rolling around).

3/4" x 4" pine (with 1/4" plywoood backing), is nice for shelves for storing your various reloading tools and supplies.

It's not difficult. If you know how to use a saw, drill, square/tape measure (measure once... cut twice ).

 

[KMaurer]

It really all depends on what exactly you mean by a "work bench." The guy at Home Depot probably assumed that you were going to be doing the typical "home handy-man" kind of projects that their typical customers are interested in doing. Whatever you use for your surface there is going to get pretty well chewed up over time regardless of what you use, so you're better off using something like pine or shop grade plywood and replacing it when necessary. For reloading and similar projects something like MDF or some smooth, non-absorbent material like vinyl flooring.

Ken

 

[MarkM]

I build my workbenches like this:

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/below20.html

 

[C-pher]

Someone posted these on here before. I've been meaning to build this, but I have to clean up my basement before I can do it..

But, it seems pretty easy to do.

http://www.shopsmithhandson.com/archives/july_aug_03/html/weekend_project.htm

 

[JonJ]

Here's a few past threads on the subject that may help.
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=5192
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=14285
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=16683
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1408

 

[RKG]

I have two home-built work benches, side by side. The top of the older one is 2x6's, side by side. I splurged for the newer one, using 3/4" sanded-one-side plywood.

The 2x6's have the advantage of being indestructible (this bench is 30+ years old, and is used for reloading, carpentry/woodworking, and light machine work), and the disadvantage of being uneven. (After a while, all dimensional lumber will cup a bit.) (The oldest of the threads posted by JonJ has a photo of my older bench, as well as some construction tips on benches that are built for reloading.)

The ply has the advantage of being flat (which it will remain), lacks the little spaces between boards where stuff can fall through, and could be quickly replaceable (though I doubt it will ever need to be replaced). If I were doing the older bench over again, I'd probably go with the ply, but the fact of the matter is that you probably can't go wrong either way.

I would not top a bench with pine boards, as they are awfully soft and will become even more uneven over time than the Doug fir 2x6's. Nor would I use MDF, as it can be affected by spilled liquids.

 

[Len-2A Training]

I did it the easy way. The first homeowner built these monster benches along two walls of a room he build surrounding the oil burner. It's been my workshop ever since!

It's also un ungodly mess!

 

[Bugs100]

I found a great one on Craigs list 5 miles from my house for $20.00 Steel legs with a wood top.

 

[kevin9]

I use 3/16-1/4 Masonite on top of +1/2 OSB screwed down with slightly counter-sunk screws (NO GLUE). When the Masonite gets scarred up you can just remove and replace the messed up section.

The other thing I did was overhang the front edge from the frame. It is supported by a 1x6, long edge up, inset into the top stringers. This provides a good wide, solid surface underneath the front edge for clamping.

 

[1903Collector]

We were replacing all the kitchen cabinets where I work so I grabbed a bunch of the base cabinets with drawers etc, which is great for storage also grabbed uppers to. Then I built a top for the bases out of two layers of 3/4" plywood and then a layer of 1/4" hardboard. The hardboard is held in palce by a few screws, the idea being when it gets all messed up I get a new piece, cut it and replace the old piece. This has worked great for me, tons of storage but not everyone has access to cabinets like I was able to get. But if you can it's a great way to go....BTW how it that 03, have you shot it yet...

 

[OnTheRoad]

Chunk of subfloor screwed down onto on 2 cheap sawhorses, covered with leftover laminate flooring from another project. Portable and still going strong after almost 10 years.

Next project is making a gun / ammo cabinet out of a Gorilla shelf, steel plate, rebar and heavy wire mesh.

 

[1903Collector]

Chunk of subfloor screwed down onto on 2 cheap sawhorses, covered with leftover laminate flooring from another project. Portable and still going strong after almost 10 years.

Next project is making a gun / ammo cabinet out of a Gorilla shelf, steel plate, rebar and heavy wire mesh.

Can't argue with that

 

[Cuz]

I build my workbenches like this:

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/below20.html

+1 to the above bench plans from HammerZone. I've built two of them and they are great. But most of all they are easy which is important because I'm somewhat handicapped when it comes to cutting wood and banging nails.

-Cuz.

 

[RKG]

I use basically the same construction except the legs are 4x4s and note that the screws drilled into the end grain of the front and back rails are useless in terms of tensile strength. The 4x4s allow you to set two courses of two screws on both the front and side rails without screwing into end grain.

 

[jpdopes]

Here's my bench. It's the one C-pher referred to at www.shopsmithhandson.com I extended the rear 2x4's so that I could have a shelf in the back. I also made this one only 2 feet deep because of space constraints. ( I built a full size one that's accross from this one) It's a pretty easy project. I used deck screws instead of nails and I never got around to putting a layer of masonite on top of the MDF. I'm actually thinking I need some sort of chemical resistant surface instead since I clean my guns there.

 

[matt]

I used old cubicle furniture. There is loads around and it is cheap. The nice thing is you can get it with locking steel drawers that meet the locked storage requirements for powder. I'll post some pics tonight.

 

[matt]

Here is my setup:

I had to build little bases to go under the drawer units to get it up to bench hight. Also, I secured it to the wall near the loading press for added stability. I find that if the bench moves, powder spills out of the shells.

EDIT: I was looking at some of the links above and in one of the threads was THIS. That's a very cool idea. I wonder how it works in practice.

 

[houdini]

If you make it use screws it makes it a lot easyer to take it a part if you have to.