Neck or Full Sizing

[Lefty38-55]

Buy the extra turret.

Load neck-sized brass in the bolt rifle. Buy the RCBS “X” die for the M1A and prepare the brass properly. Also look up the article by Larry Gibson (Cast Boolets website)?on reloading for the M1A using that X die. He got up to 16 loads from the same case before he threw them away ... not for cause ... just because. Prior to the use of the X die I think he only got 3 or 4 loadings per case.

Also look up recommended ‘high power’ loads for that 308 in the bullet weight the rifle likes. I tuned loads through my Nat Match custom 308 Garrand using Dan Newberry’s ‘Optimal Charge Weight’ method and she shoots sub-MOA.

 

[daekken]

All this neck sizing talk has me wondering if I should be doing it for 7.5x55 swiss....I can't really do it for 30-06 as I use the same ammo for my Garand and A3. But only have one rifle in 7.5x55...Brass ain't cheap so if it extends the life that would be great. I already spent $100 on Redding K31 dies a few years ago....

Then again it doesn't get shot all that much so maybe I don't really need to bother...

If you want to get to my level of calculation, determine how much case lube you'll save doing neck sizing.

I actually like neck sizing because, as I mentioned, I can do it way faster, easier, and it should extend the brass. 303 Brass isn't cheap and usually has poor life in a Lee-Enfield, so I want to maximize it with the neck sizing. From taken out of the tumbler to ready for primer in no time.

 

[DW357]

If you want to get to my level of calculation, determine how much case lube you'll save doing neck sizing.

I actually like neck sizing because, as I mentioned, I can do it way faster, easier, and it should extend the brass. 303 Brass isn't cheap and usually has poor life in a Lee-Enfield, so I want to maximize it with the neck sizing. From taken out of the tumbler to ready for primer in no time.

Please no, don’t tell me you calculate that?
To each their own! Who am I to judge.

 

[DW357]

Can you chamber a fired case? I have to do minimal set back on my fired brass. Neck size only I can’t always get the bolt closed. The straight pull bolts don’t have that extra force to cram a snug case into the chamber like a good old Mauser a tion

I’ll have to try that. I was just resizing some brass earlier and it’s very easy to resize with the Redding K31 dies. Using the comparator tool, I’m bumping it back about .005". I suppose I could try less next time I resize.

EDIT: just tried to chamber a fired case and it’s a no go

 

[daekken]

Please no, don’t tell me you calculate that?
To each their own! Who am I to judge.

I don't, although I do count tumbling media and case lube as expenditures on my reloading calculators, just by the unit (i.e., a $6 tube of lube gets counted against "savings"). I also don't try to calculation electricity used in running the drill to trim cases or the tumbler.

I’ll have to try that. I was just resizing some brass earlier and it’s very easy to resize with the Redding K31 dies. Using the comparator tool, I’m bumping it back about .005". I suppose I could try less next time I resize.

EDIT: just tried to chamber a fired case and it’s a no go

I thought I had the same problem with my Enfield, but it was from putting the case directly into the chamber and not letting the extractor snap over the rim. 7.5 Swiss is rimless, though, of course.

 

[akma]

About to get into reloading. Thinking about a Lee turret press for 44 mag and 308.

For 308, it will be for a Rem 700 LTR as my precision rifle, and a M1A that I don’t expect to be as accurate. I think I can’t use neck sizing for two different rifles. But can I use a full sizer taylored for my 700 and use that for my M1A as long as the chamber is equal to or shorter than the 700?

If you're serious about accuracy and want to avoid headaches you need a set of dies for each rifle. Secondly Hornady bullet seating and headspace gauges are a must to document your progress. Lastly I keep sample brass sized to each chamber and bullets seated to just touching the lands so I can have benchmarks and reference. I write the info on each case with a fine sharpie. I full length size all my brass even for bolt guns.

I think you may be surprised at the accuracy of your M1A with good reloading habits.

 

[PilotRPI]

If you're serious about accuracy and want to avoid headaches you need a set of dies for each rifle. Secondly Hornady bullet seating and headspace gauges are a must to document your progress. Lastly I keep sample brass sized to each chamber and bullets seated to just touching the lands so I can have benchmarks and reference. I write the info on each case with a fine sharpie. I full length size all my brass even for bolt guns.

I think you may be surprised at the accuracy of your M1A with good reloading habits.

Great ideas. Thank you. I'm probably going to start on 44 mag first, then move onto 308 later. With the turret press I can have a turret for 44 mag, one for the rem 700, and another for the M1a. The M1a I want to shoot less expensively, but I care about accuracy much more for the 700, so I can buy dies to match.

 

[DW357]

Great ideas. Thank you. I'm probably going to start on 44 mag first, then move onto 308 later. With the turret press I can have a turret for 44 mag, one for the rem 700, and another for the M1a. The M1a I want to shoot less expensively, but I care about accuracy much more for the 700, so I can buy dies to match.

Good choice starting with 44 mag. Pretty easy caliber to reload. Not to mention you can load super light mousefart rounds or super warm magnum rounds.

 

[Arto]

use mil-spec primers for Uncle Sam's floating firing pins - they're harder metal to prevent misfires.
also don't load directly into the chamber, then let the bolt go....use a magazine or sled for single shot, or ease down the bolt to prevent slam-fire
CCI Ammunition - Primer Details

 

[EddieCoyle]

For accuracy loads, I full length resize for all my rifles. No exceptions.

The only time I neck size is for hard-to-find brass that I want to keep for as long as possible in rifles that I'm not expecting sub-MOA groups out of. Like .303 British for a SMLE, or .30 Army for a Krag.

Also, I don't understand why anyone would want to get two sets of dies in the same caliber for different rifles. It's not hard to change setups and achieve repeatability.

If you have the desire to reset the headspace length for different rifles, just put a couple of witness marks on the die, or if you'd rather spend money, get one of these:

Redding Competition Shellholder Set #1 (308 Winchester - MPN: 11601

 

[mac1911]

If you want to get to my level of calculation, determine how much case lube you'll save doing neck sizing.

I actually like neck sizing because, as I mentioned, I can do it way faster, easier, and it should extend the brass. 303 Brass isn't cheap and usually has poor life in a Lee-Enfield, so I want to maximize it with the neck sizing. From taken out of the tumbler to ready for primer in no time.

Is that not a wash as you spend money on the mica for inside neck lube.

 

[Ranger007]

I’m just joking. Whatever you save you’ll spend on more reloading gear!

 

[mac1911]

For accuracy loads, I full length resize for all my rifles. No exceptions.

The only time I neck size is for hard-to-find brass that I want to keep for as long as possible in rifles that I'm not expecting sub-MOA groups out of. Like .303 British for a SMLE, or .30 Army for a Krag.

Also, I don't understand why anyone would want to get two sets of dies in the same caliber for different rifles. It's not hard to change setups and achieve repeatability.

If you have the desire to reset the headspace length for different rifles, just put a couple of witness marks on the die, or if you'd rather spend money, get one of these:

Redding Competition Shellholder Set #1 (308 Winchester - MPN: 11601

Those are neat.
i only have 2 sets for bolt gun and garand in 30-06 as its just easy. Dies sets are not very expensive in the long run.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Dies sets are not very expensive in the long run.

Neither is loosening up a nut and lining up two marks.

I guess it also depends on what you use for dies. I just spent >$200 on Redding dies for 6.5 Creedmoor: a bushing FL sizer die (with a couple of bushings) and a competition seating die.

 

[mac1911]

Neither is loosening up a nut and lining up two marks.

I guess it also depends on what you use for dies. I just spent >$200 on Redding dies for 6.5 Creedmoor: a bushing FL sizer die (with a couple of bushings) and a competition seating die.

I only have one set of redding dies. 6.5 swede for when i find a swede mauser.
All my dies are locked down into the hornady bushings. i have not had much need to change settings as i shoot the same rifles and loads for cmp most of the time.
Its all fun and you end up finding what works for you eventually.

 

[Stape]

For those of you reloading for your M1A, what do you use for primers? I know I'm probably opening a can of worms, but ever have any problems with slam fires? (OP, Sorry about hijacking your thread)

I had my M14 Double on me regularly one outing. Turned out it was high primers and Federal (the softest) to boot.

 

[rocket500]

I wouldn’t go trying to load precision rifle ammo on a progressive press. If you don’t mind the slower pace I don’t think you can beat the quality that comes out of a single stage press.

I had issues with my Hornady LNL progressive press flexing while resizing rifle brass. This lead to inconsistent sizing. Once I bought a Lee classic cast single stage press, that seemed to have disappeared. I just have the SS press dedicated to resizing.