My NES 1911 Build (updated with day 2 pictures)

[kevin9]

I finally got around to ordering some of the parts to begin building my NE 1911 Commander.

I'm starting with the fire control parts of the frame. Here's the initial set of parts:

I started with fitting the trigger. It took a while to get it in smoothly then I had to polish it to remove the tooling marks. Not sure whether I'll keep it bright or finish it dark somehow.

Next step was cleaning up the sear, disconnector and hammer. I used this write-up for guidance on cutting the secondary angle on the sear and setting the height of the hammer sear hook.

Finally I fit the thumb safety in with the sear and hammer. Like the trigger that took a while to get the right surfaces cut properly then cleaned up.

I test fit the grips and grip safety. Here's the results so far:

The grips fit nicely I think and I like the black on stainless look.

The grip safety goes in but needs to be fitted for function and blended in with the frame. I'm holding off doing that until I order and receive my next batch of parts as that will include the mainspring housing need to retain the bottom of the grip safety.

One thing I did notice is that the trigger is a bit loose front to back. It appears that the bottom of the disconnector does not go quite far enough forward to contact the back of the trigger bow. I don't think I want to bend the back of the trigger bow out as that could cause the sides of the bow to move in and bind on the magazine. I'm thinking I'll either bend the bottom of the disconnector forward slightly or enlarge the pin hole in it. Once I get the grip safety fitted I'll figure out how to address this.

More to come as the parts arrive.

 

[dimsum414]

looking good so far...although i will tell you, the frame is the easier one to put together, the slide was a bit more complicated...but keep us posted!

 

[Dirtypacman]

I am liking what I am seeing.. keep us updated.

 

[Big_Red]

One thing I did notice is that the trigger is a bit loose front to back. It appears that the bottom of the disconnector does not go quite far enough forward to contact the back of the trigger bow. I don't think I want to bend the back of the trigger bow out as that could cause the sides of the bow to move in and bind on the magazine. I'm thinking I'll either bend the bottom of the disconnector forward slightly or enlarge the pin hole in it. Once I get the grip safety fitted I'll figure out how to address this.

Does your disconnector move freely up and down and do you see the top pop out through the hole in the frame? Yours may be going into the hole at an angle which would cause it to sit away from the trigger bow. Mine was getting stuck in the hole and that caused a few problems. I ended up enlarging the hole a bit (with a round file) and that fixed it.

 

[kevin9]

Does your disconnector move freely up and down and do you see the top pop out through the hole in the frame? Yours may be going into the hole at an angle which would cause it to sit away from the trigger bow. Mine was getting stuck in the hole and that caused a few problems. I ended up enlarging the hole a bit (with a round file) and that fixed it.

Thank you. I'll check that when I get to the point of being ready to fix it.

 

[Dmac82]

Very cool. I have never done a build, what kind of special tools do you need? Is this something you would recommend a beginner? I took my Sig Mosquito apart once, but aside from that, have only ever field striped a pistol.

 

[kevin9]

I'm using these instructions as a general guide but they don't really cover the tools needed except to describe what he uses. It's not a big deal for me as I have a pretty good selection of hand, power and machine tools. What I've used so far are various small files, stones, emery cloth, fine sand paper and a dremel tool with several stones and felt wheels with different grades of polish.

If I were you I'd read the article I referenced, then get some of the referenced material as well. Maybe someone else here can offer some advice on books that include a good tool list.

 

[Big_Red]

Very cool. I have never done a build, what kind of special tools do you need? Is this something you would recommend a beginner? I took my Sig Mosquito apart once, but aside from that, have only ever field striped a pistol.

If you have never built or modified a 1911 I would strongly suggest that you start doing some research and that you get your hands on the 1911 shop manuals. The link below takes you to a thread where I listed the two books and a video that I used as references.

http://northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=1021965&postcount=96

 

[Big_Red]

Thank you. I'll check that when I get to the point of being ready to fix it.

Just make sure to not alter the shape of the disconnector hole and take your time with the file. Remember it is always easier to remove metal than to put it back on.

 

[7.62x39]

It looks like it's coming along very nicely.

 

[matt]

Looking good Kevin!

I'm finally finished with building my NES AR lower... from the first group buy! Need to take her out for the maiden voyage.

 

[kevin9]

Updated with pictures (Oct 26)

Well, today I fit the mainspring housing and grip safety. Please excuse the poor phone camera pictures.

I discovered several things not to my liking.

First was the mainspring housing; as you can see in the pictures it extends below the grip by quite a bit, at least 1/4 to 3/8 inch. The housing is an arched, checked housing from Caspian. I'm concerned that cutting it off flush with the bottom of the grip could impinge on the mainspring tube and it would require some work to make it blend in. Thoughts?

Second was that I trimmed too much off the thumb safety tab. With the thumb safety engaged the trigger will still come back a touch, just enough to release the hammer from the sear. The hammer still catches on safety, but if I then release the safety the hammer drops to the next notch. Looks like I need to order another safety.

Third, the grip safety took very little fitting because it actually fits rather loosely. I had to tweak the tab a little for it to depress fully and clear the trigger bow when depressed, but other than that no other material had to be removed to get it to fit. I did contour the lower part of the safety some to blend in with the frame but that did not affect the fit at all. The areas shown in the picture was not touched at all yet there is a noticeable gap. It works OK, but not quite what I am shooting for with regard to fit.

Finally the trigger still rattles some. I've got a bit more work to do regarding the disconnector, as mentioned above, which may tighten it up, but I may be ordering another trigger too.

I'll get pictures up when I can.

 

[FPrice]

First was the mainspring housing; it extends below the grip by quite a bit, at least 1/4 to 3/8 inch. The housing is an arched, checked housing from Caspian. I'm concerned that cutting it off flush with the bottom of the grip could impinge on the mainspring tube and it would require some work to make it blend in. Thoughts?

There is a hole at the bottom of the grip. Does a pin hold the MSH in the grip at that point? If so, do the holes line up? Perhaps the MSH is not sliding all the way up into the frame?

 

[kevin9]

There is a hole at the bottom of the grip. Does a pin hold the MSH in the grip at that point? If so, do the holes line up? Perhaps the MSH is not sliding all the way up into the frame?

Yes, the holes do line up and pinned in place it fits with the grip safety as it should.

 

[kevin9]

Closer examination of the Caspian website has helped me figure out 2 of the issues.

Almost all mainspring housings from Caspian are designed for their integral magwell hence it sticks out below a regular grip receiver. The only one that does not is their flat titanium MSH. Guess I'll be taking a whack at cutting it off, or ordering one that fits from Brownells.

I also figured out I should have ordered the receiver with the beavertail cut to provide more material to fit the safety. It looks like I'll have to get a grip safety designed to be fit to a "regular" receiver tang with more material around the beavertail if I want a tight fit. Anyone have recommendations on specific grip safeties that might work?

 

[FPrice]

Closer examination of the Caspian website has helped me figure out 2 of the issues.

Almost all mainspring housings from Caspian are designed for their integral magwell hence it sticks out below a regular grip receiver. The only one that does not is their flat titanium MSH. Guess I'll be taking a whack at cutting it off, or ordering one that fits from Brownells.

Seeing the picture makes it clearer. Someone (probably not me) might have guessed the answer from seeing the shape of the material which is sticking out below the grip. I was thinking that it was flat like most MSHs.

 

[kevin9]

I'm getting close with this build. Yesterday I replaced the thumb safety and fit it properly this time, and put in the proper mainspring housing. I ordered another trigger and am still fitting that. I also ordered another beavertail grip safety, but have not started to fit that. I may wait on that as the current one works, it just doesn't look as neat as I want it to.

I fit the barrel last week and that went pretty well. The only big thing left is to finish cutting the chamber. I had to trim the hood slightly and now the rim sticks out beyond the hood some so that it does not go fully into battery. I suspect the chamber was cut slightly short from the factory anyway to allow fitting.

Does anyone have a .45 ACP finish reamer and headspace guages I can borrow? If not I'll order them through Brownells.

 

[Greg Derr]

The tangs on the frame are "standard" If you get an Ed Brown, Wilson or CMC grip safety you can remove metal from the tangs for a tight gap fit. Buy the Ed Brown beavertail fitting jig "buttons" and remove metal in steps. As you get closer to final fit remove less metal. Dykem is used to mark the high spots. Might take you two hours, but it will look right.

 

[kevin9]

The tangs on the frame are "standard" If you get an Ed Brown, Wilson or CMC grip safety you can remove metal from the tangs for a tight gap fit. Buy the Ed Brown beavertail fitting jig "buttons" and remove metal in steps. As you get closer to final fit remove less metal. Dykem is used to mark the high spots. Might take you two hours, but it will look right.

Thanks for the suggestions. I've already ordered a different grip safety; this one from STI. It has more metal around the tangs which should allow me to fit it better when I'm ready to.

Here's the latest pictures. I've still got some tweaking to do on the trigger, and need to cut the chamber, but once that is done it's ready for function testing.

 

[Navy Moose]

Beautiful!

 

[matt]

DANG! looking good Kevin!

 

[kevin9]

One more question has come up. With the tail of the firing pin pushed in even with the retainer, like it would be when hit by the hammer, it appears the tip of the pin is even with but does not protrude from the breech face. Should it stick out, and if so how much?

TIA

 

[Bugs100]

The firing pin only travels about .06 in a 1911..