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my first 308 loads
- Thread starter wiskie762
- Start date
Congrats.
Now, how do they work in your gun???
Now, how do they work in your gun???
wiskie762
Instructor
ill let you know when I shoot them
Might want to reweigh those bullets
![[wink]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/002.gif "Wink [wink]")
Just kidding, looks good, let us know how they shoot.
wiskie762
Instructor
Might want to reweigh those bullets
Just kidding, looks good, let us know how they shoot.
I thought I was making a mistake when i weighed them but they must be some mil surp type bullets. got 800 of them in a trade.weighed them like 5 times
wiskie762
Instructor
Savage model 11
1903Collector
NES Member
Out of spec how?
Good luck with em.
Good luck with em.
Sounds very similar to my .308 Winchester loading, only I've been using 147gn FMJ-BT bullets over 42gn of Varget. Has worked out very nicely. Had to tick my scope up 4 clicks at 100 yards over the mil-surp stuff I was shooting. Nice to know I'm getting a little more velocity.
wiskie762
Instructor
they would not chamber in my gun (could not Close the bolt). This has happened before. so I will pull them and start over.
I bought mine pre-obama
This is usually caused when you don't adjust the full length sizing dies properly.
The proper method is to raise the ram with a shell holder installed (or raise the shell plate if a progressive or turret press. Then, screw the sizing die down until it touches the top of the shell holder/shell plate. That will give a true full length sizing to the outside of the casing. Some people run the sizing die down, and then back it off some turns. Not sure why they do that.
Three other things could cause an issue with chambering, presuming that you have properly full sized the case.
The first is if you try to roll crimp the bullet in place. That can cause some slight case collapse, which increases the diameter of the case, especially in the neck area. Most jacketed rifle bullets do not need to get crimped into place. If the neck is properly sized, the bullet will seat tight, all by itself. Most of us plinkers don't need to crimp jacketed rifle bullets.
The second is case length, although that's a rare issue. If the case is too long, the end of the neck can jam up against the front of the chamber. The risk here is case separation if the neck jamming is severe. The brass will get lodged, and when you try to extract, it will rip the end of the brass off. So, be sure to check for overall case length with a caliper, and trim if required.
The third thing is bullet seating depth that could result in the overll length being just a tad too long. If you're right on the edge of being too long, back off the length. (Seat the bullet deeper) Of course, you can confirm any of these possibilities with the use of a caliper.
If you find inconsistancies in any of your reloads (overall lengths changing ever so slightly, or full length sizing not consistant), then I would suggest that you are not doing a "hard stop" type motion with the ram while processing your press. I always recommend moving the lever arm swiftly, and firmly enough so that the press, at the END of the stroke, is a hard and firm (almost metal to metal) stop. The press is made to take it. And, it assures that you don't just stop pressing when you "think" it's there. Using the hard stop method will assure that every casing gets processed the same way, with no variations, mechanically.
Snapshot, that's only one explanation for what could be going on. See above.
The proper method is to raise the ram with a shell holder installed (or raise the shell plate if a progressive or turret press. Then, screw the sizing die down until it touches the top of the shell holder/shell plate. That will give a true full length sizing to the outside of the casing. Some people run the sizing die down, and then back it off some turns. Not sure why they do that.
Three other things could cause an issue with chambering, presuming that you have properly full sized the case.
The first is if you try to roll crimp the bullet in place. That can cause some slight case collapse, which increases the diameter of the case, especially in the neck area. Most jacketed rifle bullets do not need to get crimped into place. If the neck is properly sized, the bullet will seat tight, all by itself. Most of us plinkers don't need to crimp jacketed rifle bullets.
The second is case length, although that's a rare issue. If the case is too long, the end of the neck can jam up against the front of the chamber. The risk here is case separation if the neck jamming is severe. The brass will get lodged, and when you try to extract, it will rip the end of the brass off. So, be sure to check for overall case length with a caliper, and trim if required.
The third thing is bullet seating depth that could result in the overll length being just a tad too long. If you're right on the edge of being too long, back off the length. (Seat the bullet deeper) Of course, you can confirm any of these possibilities with the use of a caliper.
If you find inconsistancies in any of your reloads (overall lengths changing ever so slightly, or full length sizing not consistant), then I would suggest that you are not doing a "hard stop" type motion with the ram while processing your press. I always recommend moving the lever arm swiftly, and firmly enough so that the press, at the END of the stroke, is a hard and firm (almost metal to metal) stop. The press is made to take it. And, it assures that you don't just stop pressing when you "think" it's there. Using the hard stop method will assure that every casing gets processed the same way, with no variations, mechanically.
Snapshot, that's only one explanation for what could be going on. See above.
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Dirtypacman
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wiskie762
Instructor
![[rofl]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/013.gif "ROFL [rofl]")
wiskie762
Instructor
Thank you. but i have a some the 143 grain left(about 750).
"Smoke 'em if you got 'em"
Mikie
NES Member
I am new to reloading 308, but not new to reloading. I've been reloading 223 with 75 gr HPBT for long range shooting with reasonable success. My first try at 308 was surprising. 175 gr Sierra HPBT in LC brass using CFE 223. The posted loads at Shooters Reference said: start 45.5 gr (2,612 fps and pressure at 49,600) and max 47.5 (2752 fps and pressure at 60,400). I loaded up some at 46.5 gr, right in the middle at the posted OAL of 2.80" to try out. I fired 5 rounds of Norma factory 175s and they fired well and extracted very smoothly. I tried my reloads and was getting stuck cases in my bolt rifle. The last stuck case I didn't get out until I got home. I didn't like using a plastic cushioned hammer on my bolt handle but couldn't think of any other way to clear it.
Any thoughts or advice on my experience?
Any thoughts or advice on my experience?
Are the case only sticking after shooting?
Do the reloads feed and estract freely with out shooting them
-any chance your reloads bullet is cramming the lands ?
Something going on there for sure
I had a similar problem with Lee .308Win dies for the M14 - the bolt wouldn't close, wouldn't pass the Hornady gage, even when sent back to Lee for "adjustment." Got RCBS Small Base Die & it works perfect. Seems like 308 is "differenter" than any other 30 cals - a lot stiffer to resize, i.e., force & lube variation & between commercial & 7.62 mil ...
2.80" COAL should be OK for Sierra 175 HPBT's, so that's not your issue.
Do your unfired reloads load and extract AOK? If no- then you are not adequately sizing the cases. Most likely if that's the cause, you (or someone else if range pick up) previously fired the cases in a rifle with a 'looser' chamber than the rifle in question.
If your unfired reloads easily load and extract, then sizing is not your problem and your loads are generating too much pressure. Honestly, I thought CFE223 burns too fast for 308 but it is not the fasted 308 recommended powder. Yet somehow its loads generate higher pressures. Also you have to convert typical 308 powder data from CUP to PSI, but after converting units the max pressure for CFE223 is nearly 4,000 psi higher than powders like Varget or H4995. For my match bolt guns, I typically neck size only after the cases have been fired once in the rifle. If the cases eventually become tight, I'll full length size then neck size again for the subsequent reloads. That is rare- usually I can neck size after the first firing in a particular rifle. Of course those cases remain dedicated to that specific rifle.
If sizing is the problem, can you figure out where on the case is jamming? The base? If yes- have you screwed in the sizing die until it makes the reloader handle 'cam over' to get it to bottom out?
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Mikie
NES Member
Lot to think about. But here's answers to some of your questions.
I bought the LC brass fully processed: sized and deprimed. I dropped several of the unloaded brass into the chamber and they dropped in easily and came out without any assistance. The loaded rounds chambered fine and without firing them would extract and eject smoothly. I was left to think they were too hot but I thought right in the middle of the low-high loads would work fine.
These were the first shots out of my rifle which is a nice custom build I purchased second hand: Kelbly Stolle Atlas action, MPA 24" barrel 1:10 twist. It shoots nice.
I'm going to back off the powder charge toward the low end and give those a try.
I bought the LC brass fully processed: sized and deprimed. I dropped several of the unloaded brass into the chamber and they dropped in easily and came out without any assistance. The loaded rounds chambered fine and without firing them would extract and eject smoothly. I was left to think they were too hot but I thought right in the middle of the low-high loads would work fine.
These were the first shots out of my rifle which is a nice custom build I purchased second hand: Kelbly Stolle Atlas action, MPA 24" barrel 1:10 twist. It shoots nice.
I'm going to back off the powder charge toward the low end and give those a try.
